After running well on small distance road test and let it on parking for 8 hours problem comes back.

Start on well but idle running down until dead. Spark plugs #3-4 are gas flooded and smelt

 

Now my Volvo runs well

Problem was the Fuel Pressure Regulator. It is located between throttle body and the fuel distribution pipe.
Steps to change it are:
- release fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse. Starting engine until it stalls then ignition key off,
- turn off radio,
-disconnect negative cable of the battery.

 

It was too beautiful to be true . My 240 does not want to start.
After changing Throttle Switch and Fuel Pressure Regulator nothing to do motor rotates but refuses to start. Checking Air Mass meter it is Okay, reading gives 3.5 Ω. Air Control Valve under the throttle body has been removed and tested with terminal battery. It opens and closes correctly.

Any ideas for the next steps??

 

as always, verify you got spark, fuel. after determining which is the issue, work backwards from the last thing you did.

crank it over several times, then pull a spark plug. is it wet with fuel? then you probably have a spark/ignition problem. is it dry? then there is probably a fuel problem.

 

From the sounds of the symptoms, your problem probably is your Fuel Pump Relay. It is a white relay that is behind your glove compartment. When you turn the key to the on position, this relay should click and you should hear the fuel pumps run for about a second and then shut off. If this doesn't happen, tap the relay with a screwdriver handle and see if that helps. Intermittant no-starts have many times traced to this relay.

Another common item that leads to intermittant no-starts is the crank position sensor. This sensor tells the ECU the rotational position of the crankshaft. If it doesn't detect the rotation of the crank, the ECU shuts down the fuel circuit. If the Fuel Pumps run fine in the above test but the engine still won't start, inspect the crank position sensor. See if the wires are cracked or frayed. It is located on the top of the bell housing where the engine and transmission meet. The wire runs from the sensor to a connector on the firewall. Jiggle the wire and make sure the connector is tight. See if that helps get it started.

Good luck

 

Thanks act1292.

I will check and come back to you asap.

 

Sorry for delay but I come back act1992 and friends

Surprisingly I did nothing before starting my car. Just verified ground between motor and car frame and fuses box with my finger.

After that I started my car and it runs! It is running without the Air Control Valve electronic plug. If I plug it motor is running not uniformaly.

Standby to see what it will happen.

Thanks so lot.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by an Air Control Valve. Are you referring to the Air Mass Meter? The Air Mass Meter is part of the air intake tubing. If you disconnect the AMM and the car starts and runs, most likely the AMM is faulty.

The AMM is a pretty expensive part from the dealer but you can find them on the internet for more reasonable prices. Make sure that you match the part numbers when finding a replacement.

 

Not the Air Mass Meter. It is the Air Control Valve or Idle Air Stabilizer Valve located underneath the throttle body. It controls idle speed within 200 rpm range depending engine loads at idle.

Again I will see what it will happen.

 

So it runs now but does not have stable idle when the Idle Control Valve is hooked up? Or does it not run at all?

It might be better to start a new thread on this issue. May get more viewers.

 

I had the same problem with mine. It was the bell housing sensor. I replaced the O2 sensor at the same time and it runs like a new car!