Hi Forum, I'm not new but have not posted in a long time. I checked through several pages of posts trying to find something similar to my problem and decided to just put my specific issue out there.

My 1993 240 Wagon had rear hatch right hinge replaced yesterday. Shop also re-soldered the wires that run through it that had been cut years ago. At last the rear wiper worked again! However, when it got dark and the car was driven it was discovered that several electrical units now are not working. The door locks do not work from the driver door, the dome light stays on, the radio does not work. This is in addition to the right rear turn signal which was not working, just dash indicator flashing/clicking rapidly (before the repair to hinge). Hope someone has a good diagnosis and fix I can try before I accuse the shop of doing something. Thanks, Chad in SF

 

Oops, I need to edit my post already. The dome light does NOT work. But on one of the switch settings, with car running, it makes the door alarm sound. Door lock button does same thing if pushed or pulled a little (not changing the lock position, just pressure up or down). Also the clock stopped. The car starts and runs fine, all other lights work. Going to check the right rear turn signal bulb connection again. That's the only thing that was removed after the shop replaced the rear hinge and soldered the cut wires in the hinge. Thanks

 

Check your fuses for the un switched items - dome light, electric locks, glove box light, clock -

The wires were not cut - they broke from bending 90 degrees every time the cargo door was open. Must have replaced hundred of sets of those over the years.

 

Thanks. I just finished and did find the 8-amp fuses for radio, clock, doors, dome light all blown. Replaced them sequentially with known good fuses and all restored to working order. Problem now is that when operating the door locks that fuse (which you know also controls dome light) blew again. I believe it is the rear hatch lock that is probably controlled by the re-soldered wires that is now experiencing a short that blows the fuse. I know the wire fatigue is a known problem, but I really believe these wires were cut some 20-odd years ago when a rear hatch body repair was done. Both sets of wires, in both hinges were cut when the hatch was removed for the repair. I noticed them then and the rear lock has not worked since then. The car had under 40,000 miles then. It now has over 240,000. Can you suggest how to trace the short? Is the rear hatch lock controlled by the wire loom in left or right hinge? Left side wires are still cut. They may be repaired in a few weeks when the second hinge is replaced. And thank you very much for your help.

 

I think they are the blue and yellow wires for the door lock, not sure if left or right. And there is no reason to cut them - The cargo door wire harnesses unplug from a main harness just under the headliner in each corner near each hinge. Carefully peel the corner of the headliner back and you can get to them.

Could be a bad door lock motor - but they just seize and don't short out.

 

soldering is the wrong way to repair the hinge wiring anyways. thats special high strand count wire designed to be extra flexible. solder joints aren't at all flexible, and will crack under the stress of opening/closing the hunge. its best to replace that harness

 

Thanks folks. I see that the shop peeled the headliner corner to access the hinge bolts. I plan to replace the harness on both sides. When a new 8 amp fuse was installed the door locks worked but then it blew again. Same issue withe the radio: new fuse radio worked, then when the door locks were triggered and blew the radio fuse went too.Is there a connection between interior lamps, radio and door locks? I know they do not all share fuses, but all are 8 amp.

 

Hey All,
I am waiting on new rear wire harnesses to arrive so I can change them out. I am a little nervous about removing the hinges and getting the rear door reinstalled correctly. Any tips here?

 

Do the hinges one at a time and have a secure method to be able to hold the door up with the hinge removed. I always use something like this to hold the door up w 1 removed hinge

 

Stupid question? I hope not.
Does the door need to be completely raised before I remove a hinge? Can I have it partially lowered so that it can rest on something else, like a ladder?
(Edit)
Also, is it necessary to remove the struts, or can this be done with them still attached?

 

Not having the tailgate open all the way will certainly make it hard to get to the hinge bolts, and put the door more unbalanced (one hinge removed, tailgate halfway open)

 

Got it done! Learned a lot on this project. Probably mostly simple things I just didn't know before. But the license plate lights work now. As soon as I get the front lights changed out I can it inspected and back on the road!
Thanks for your help.