1993 240 won't start or run

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Old 01-01-2011, 01:44 PM
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Unhappy 1993 240 won't start or run

Got a 93 240 sedan that all of a sudden (as if it never is sudden) it won't start. I checked the diagnostics and I get 3 single lights. I pulled the spark plugs and they all where wet with gas and do fire. I took the air intake snorkel off and gave her some ether and quickly put snorkel back on hoping it would fire up but made no difference. After setting for a day it acts like it wants to almost start but then dies after running on what seems like 1 or 2 cylinders for about 15 seconds. I also tried a different MAF.

I have a 940 that got a new rear main seal and after would not run and acted very similar to this 240 now. That was the mechanics error as he put the flywheel on wrong. This 240 seems to act the same way. I tested the crank sensor on both the 240 and the 940 that runs great and both sensors seem to act the same. I am baffled and a bit angry as this 240 is my doughters car and she needs to get to collage and cart my 5 yo grandson around as well...

I searched and read as many threads as I could and have tried evrything... I need some help...
 
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:14 PM
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Well, if the plugs are wet w/ fuel that's a fair indicator there is no spark. And you checked the crank sensor...and that's good because they are a prime culprit. Not only can the sensor fail, but the long pigtail on it often will deteriorate and cause the same issue. There is an ignition module on the left inner fender near the headlamp that can fail and cause a no start, you could swap parts from the 940 and check. Before you go too far though...have some one crank the car while you remove the oil cap and watch the cam. If it doesn't move then your cam belt is broken.
 
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:59 PM
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How did you check for spark. Did you pull a plug wire and using a extra spark plug ground it while turning over the engine? Also did you put a timing light on each plug wire while turning over the engine and get a light?Are you sure that the plugs are wet? Do you hear the fuel pumps running when you turn the key on?Have you replaced the fuel pump relay and the radio suppression relay? Did you verify the integrity of the crank sensor wires to make sure none are broken? Did you check the Ign codes and were they a 1-1-1. Have you cleaned the Idle air control valve and the throttle body? Have you checked the throttle position sensor and verified it is working correctly? Was anything done to the car just prior to it not starting? If I think of other areas to check I'll post them. Good luck.
 
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Old 01-01-2011, 07:25 PM
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While you're at it, read his post. He says the codes were 1-1-1 (although in other words), the plugs were wet with fuel, even says they do fire...which doesn't really make sense...says he checked the crank sensor and I mentioned the sensor wiring, the IAC and TPS can be laying on the sidewalk and not cause a no-start. The throttle body would need to be truly trashed to cause a no-start. All those things can affect idling and running but won't keep the engine from starting.
To the o.p., besides the quick cam check mentioned, it's always good to check the basics...pull the D cap and see if the rotor has self destructed...that does happen once in a while. And, the primary wiring to the coil...the usual suspects...
 
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Old 01-02-2011, 06:20 AM
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It had a new timing belt just a few thousand miles ago. The codes did read 1-1-1 and I do have fuel and spark. I think the code reads 1-1-1 as the battery was unplugged during this process and correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't that reset the codes anyway? The conversations about IAC and TBS is helpful as I know it should still start regardless of their integrity. The more I think and read the more I think it may be that crank sensor. I found a thread, "Intermittent Crank but No Start with a Hang Up/Catch?" which seems similar to the way this car sounds. Also as I mentioned the "rear seal on my 940 problem with the flywheel on wrong." I'm going to pull that and check it out... Thanks to all and I'll check back with the results...
 

Last edited by dwaino@live.com; 01-02-2011 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:03 AM
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So the housing or mount that holds the crank sensor is broken. It seemed tight when I put the socket on it but when I turned it the whole thing when afloat. I pulled the sensor out along with half of the sensor housing, the bolt and the part that holds the threads for the bolt. Does this mean that the f#@king transmission has to come out to put a new housing in. I know from experience that the sensor housing is mounted to the engine and the bell housing has a space notched out to accommodate the sensor housing... I just cant remember how it's fasted. There's no room down there. What to do. I still don't know if the sensor is bad...What a damned cluster-fuffle...
 
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