I have read so many of the threads regarding the error code 1-1-3. We just bought a 1993 Volvo 240 Station Wagon for my son. He and I have had a nice time bringing it back together. Previous owner had dogs and allowed them full access.

Yes, we totally removed carpeting and upholstery and washed it all.

Back to the point at hand, the car was getting errors 1-1-3. We took it to get the emission first to see what we were working with:

HC ppm (25/25) = 413 allowed 123 - Fail
CO % = 6.87 allowed 0.69 - Fail
NOx ppm = 218 allowed 878 - Pass

HC ppm (50/15) = 370 allowed 128 - Fail
CO % = 5.49 allowed 0.71 - Fail
NOx ppm = 343 allowed 970 - Pass


Cleared Codes
First we changed:
O2 Sensor (Bosch), Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Spark Plugs, Wires, Fuel Injectors
Cleaned Fire Stop, Throttle Body, MAF Sensor
Sprayed Carb Cleaner around engine area - no increase in rpms
Error Codes 1-1-3 after 4 miles of driving
Code 3-3-2 for TPS idle
Code 3-3-2 for TPS Full Throttle (might need to adjust TPS)

Cleared Codes
Next we changed
MAF Sensor (WALKER 2451097 {#917902} Full Assembly - Rock Auto)
Error Codes 1-1-3 after 9 miles of driving
No more stalling and it runs so much better!!!

The only parts left in the Fuel Injection area are Idle Air Control Valve and Catalytic converter.

Good News - We live in Georgia and January 1, 2018 no need for emissions. However, I want the car to run as clean as possible.

Any suggestions to help a Dad and his son with their new project car?

 

high HC suggests its running too rich. a bad coolant temp sensor (or wiring) can do that, makes the ECU think its cold, so it runs it richer even tho its not cold

 

I had a similar problem recently with my 1993 240 wagon and troubleshooting it almost drove me insane. Ultimately, I took apart the air-box and discovered that the flapper valve was gummed up with dead bug carcasses. I cleaned it thoroughly and installed a new air-box thermostat and it solved the problem. Good luck!

 

unless you live where its supercold in the winter, I recommend taking some bailing wire and rigging that flap permanently shut. Here in California, they inspect for the heat riser pipe during Smog Check, so you can't just get rid of it, but they don't inspect the flap.

the flap being open won't cause your too-rich symptoms, but it will lead to premature death of the MAF from excessively hot air.

 

@pierce - We have ordered a new Coolant Temperature Sensor and Idle Air Control Valve. I really love that fact that we are replacing these parts because it is allowing my son to know what is new and cleaned. He is getting a better understanding of his Fuel Injection system. As soon as we get the parts we will remove the Intake Manifold to get to the parts easier. We are also going to replace the Oil Separator.


@7Forty - We will more than likely clean and replace what you suggested as well. It's not that I am rich, but I really want this car to run as cleanly as possible and have the confidence that this car will be reliable for my son


@Everyone - We are also replacing the rear shocks. Replacing all of the brake pads as well as cleaning and painting the brake calipers. I am so proud of this car as a tool to teach my son how to work on cars.


I look forward to sharing our experience. Thank you all for having this venue to help keep Volvo's around for years to come.

 

One more thing, the OBD I testing unit is a bit damaged and the connectors won't stay in place. Is there a kit to replace this?

 

Did you perform diagnostics on these and verify they are actually bad? just swapping random parts is not a good way to fix these things. the CTS (coolant temp sensor) can easily be tested with an ohmmeter. it should be fairly high resistance when cold, and fairly low resistance when hot. it has 2 pins, each is a seperate thermistor, so you measure the resistance from the body(ground) to one of the pins, then the other pin (both pins should read about the same). if you remove it from teh car, you can test it with a glass of icewater, room temp, and a glass of near boiling water. use a couple thin wires wrapped around the body and the pin to drop it in said hot or ice water...

32F (0C)-- about 6000 ohms within a range of +/- 10%
68F(20C) -- about 2300 ohms
104F(40C) -- about 1300 ohms
140F(60C) -- about 600 ohms
176F(80C) -- about 300 ohms
212F(100C)-- about 190 ohms

re the Idle Air Control.... that generally just needs cleaning... its a solenoid actuated rotarvalve, when you apply 12V across the pins, it should snap open with a click, disconnect and it should close just as fast. I would reach in with a small screwdriver, gently open it without scratching it, then spray carb cleaner through it (wear gloves!), and agitate it to clean out the crud. VERY likely you will need to replace both of the short hoses it connects to as they are likely going to crack and tear when you remove it.

re: OBD test box, you mean the test port pin? I dunno any other connectors associated with that.


btw, there's TONS of useful info here, https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/FAQSummary1.html
while that says 74xx/9xx, everything engine-wise for LH 2.4 is applicable to your 93.

 

@pierce - I cleaned the MAF and the car continued to idle a little rough. After replacing it, the car immediately ran a lot smoother. I am going to test the Coolant Temp Sensor. I have noticed positive pressure when the oil cap is off. This has me thinking the Oil Separator might have some issues. Since I will be testing the coolant temp sensor, I am going to remove the oil separator as well. My question is that all of the videos I have watched, no one has removed the intake manifold to get to everything easier. Is removing the intake manifold a last resort when getting to these parts?

 

if you have an EGR, its pretty hard to get the oil separator box off without removing the manifold. if you remove the manifold, get a new gasket. if you remove the injectors from the manifold, get new injector seals. if you remove the throttle body from the manifold, get a new gasket for that, too.

 

@pierce - Thank you so much for all of your advice and direction. I ordered the oil filter you suggested as well. There were some very good and informative youtube videos showing the quality. Awesome. My son and I will be doing a lot of work on the car right after Xmas.

Rear Shocks
Brake Pads - Front and Rear
Cleaning Idle Air Control Valve
Testing Coolant Temp Sensor
Cleaning and painting the Brake Calipers
Flushing the brake system

Lots of fun ahead.

The front struts - Should we take on replacing them or leave it to the mechanics? The rear shocks are easy.

 

@pierce The Coolant Temperature Sensor tested fine. I did find out that there were so missing parts on the car and a bad temperature sensor in the Air box.

Missing:
Pre-heater hose to the air box

Bad:
The temperature sensor was not working at all. I used a hair dryer to test it and it was stuck in the cold vent side. I ordered a new temperature sensor and pre-heater hose and will install it, then reset the codes and see if the error codes return.

Thank you for all of the responses.

 

today was the day we finally were able to get the vehicle registration for the car. Prior to all of the repairs the car would run but rough. We replaced all the recommended parts and after a few tries the engine fired up and sounded great. I did have a post regarding the fuel pump being noisy. But the car ran fine. The fuel gauge doesn't work. So, after replacing the part I was able to get it to run. However, fours days later, the car cranks, but won't start. My heart dropped. My son can't drive his newly registered car. It is cold this morning, but I doubt that is it. I disconnected the fuel line to the injector rail and had him try to start the car. Fuel does flow. When cranking, it sounds like it is trying to start for a second, then just cranks and cranks. No start.

I did replace the fuel injectors, could after market injectors be the issue?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Some added info:

All this started happening after we removed the intake manifold. When it wouldn't start then, I took the intake manifold off again and made sure everything was connected right and in all the right places. I did fix the fuel return hose which was kind of messed up. After with the car started fine. four days later, crank, but no start.

 

i am now getting an error code of 1-2-3. I checked the Coolant temp Sensor. It works fine. The resistance does decrease when heat is applied.

Would this error code keep the car from starting?

 

if you pull a spark plug after cranking does it have gas on it? if you pull the vacuum line
off the fuel pressure regulator is gas present?

 

There's a brand new Fuel Pressure regulator. I will check the spark plug for gas.

 

Just checked a spark plug and there is fuel on it. I smelled the vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg and no fuel smell. I wonder if the ignition coil is the issue. We have new spark plugs and wires. It ran fine 4 days ago.

 

so it's getting gas and FPR good. couple things come to mind. verify timing belt good by looking through oil filler on top valve cover , make sure cam turning while cranking. verify spark from coil to distributor. check wire connection on ignition control module forward of battery. check crank sensor.

 

It ran for about 3 seconds then back to cranking and no start. It fires a couple times, then back to cranking and no start.

Waiting for a friend to come over to check is cam is turning.

 

I did a test. I disconnected the wire from the coil to the distributor. It just cranked and cranked no firing. I plugged it back in and there was firing a little. It tried to run and then went back to trying to start. Now that it is getting warmer, it seems to be trying to start a little better.

Still waiting on the friend