One more thing, prior to all of this, I was getting a 1-1-3 code. Now I only get #2 1-2-3 and #6 2-2-4 Would the Coolant Temp Sensor cause it to not start?

 

I pulled off the Oil Cap and cleaned the cam shaft, tried to start it. It ran what seemed like 2 or three rotations then back to just cranking with trying to start. It's almost like the fuel to air mixture is totally off.

 

Wow... I disconnected the NEW MAF Sensor and it started and is still running as we speak.

 

it could be that the coil wire itself is bad. try a different one to confirm.
the cold should have no bearing on this. my engine started without any problem today in ZERO deg. F

 

i see you installed an aftermarket MAF. these Volvo's sometimes don't like aftermarket electrical stuff.
maybe try the original again?

i still think try a different coil wire.

 

Looks like if the car is cold, it will not start with the MAF connected. I disconnect the MAF and warm the car up and it will keep running.

 

Check your crank position sensor. It provides the signal to the ECU for firing the injectors and the ignition system. It is located on top of the bell housing where the engine and transmission meet. It has a fat black coax cable that plugs into a connector on the firewall. If the insulation on the cable is cracked and flaking then it needs replacement. Wiggle this wire while your buddy cranks and see if it fires then.

 

it is in 'limp mode' when you do this.

you did double check the condition of the distributor cap and rotor?

 

My last post was a little wrong. Prior to doing all of this work on the car, everything was fine, just a #2 1-1-3 error. We replaced Spark Plugs, Wires, Fuel Injectors, Idle Air Control Valve, Fuel Pressure Regulator and cleaned the flame trap, Throttle Body. The car still errored with 1-1-3. We then replaced the MAF Sensor. During this entire time the car was starting fine. No issues. At this time it was suggested that I should check the Coolant Temp Sensor. I decided to replace the Oil Separator while I was at it. I removed the intake manifold and replaced the Coolant Temperature Sensor, the Oil Separator. This is when the issue of starting began. I took apart the intake manifold again and checked all of the connections and everything looked fine. The car started fine. The weather started getting real cold (Georgia). I tried starting the car and it would only crank, not start. I decided to check the codes and found I was getting the #2 1-1-3 and #6 2-2-4 error codes. I realized there was another missing item, the Pre-heater hose. I ordered the pre-heater hose and a new thermostat for the Airbox. I replaced them. I checked the resistance on the coolant temp sensor the it was good. I checked the continuity from the connector to the wire right before where it goes into the firewall where the Jetronix box is and it was good. The error codes say it should be a faulty Coolant Temp Sensor, but I placed the old sensor on the connector and cleared the codes and tried to start the car and it cranks but will not start. After several tries the car finally does start. As long as it stays warm the car starts fine. It's only when it is cold. I have had the car parked for about 3 hours in 32 degree temp and just tried to start it. It took a few tries, but it did start. This has to be something related to the cold. In October we didn't have any issues starting the car. Now with this arctic blast hitting the east coast I am at a loss as to what could be the issue. Is it possible I have a bad Fuel Injection ECU or a bad EZK IGN ECU? The codes say a faulty Coolant Temp Sensor, but it is working fine.

 

i still say this is not cold related. mine started in -1 deg F yesterday no problem. think you still need to check CPS wire as others have said and coil wire and distributor cap and rotor. last winter i had an intermittent misfire/stall and it ended up to be this...

https://volvoforums.com/g/picture/7897572

 

thats a lot of random parts to replace., any of those replacement parts could be suspect, especially if they were 'off brand'.

 

I should have explained why for each part.

The Oil Separator, Flame Trap were because I saw oil around oil filler cap and the valve cover gasket. I also noticed positive air pressure when I removed the oil filler cap while it was running.

The MAF Sensor I cleaned and the car still ran a little rough. After changing it the vehicle ran much better. I noticed that the pre-heater hose was missing and the thermostat, after removing it was stuck in an inward position and would not move regardless of heat being applied or not. The missingPre-heater hose and failed thermostat could have been the issue of it failing emissions because the MAF would continually think the engine was still cold making the fuel air mixture to be rich.

The fuel injector's o-rings were dry rot and gummed up, I decided to just replace the whole injector.

The spark plugs and wires were just a regular tune-up.

It was suggested by a Volvo forum person that the Coolant Temperature Sensor could be the reason the vehicle was failing emission was checked and that started the issue of the vehicle not starting. This is when I started getting the #2 1-2-3 #6 2-2-4 error codes.

Other unrelated replacements:
Alternator not charging, replaced the voltage regulator fixed this issue.
Slow acceleration caused by a clogged fuel filter.

The car runs so much better now. It's just the cold weather starting.

I ran another test. I parked the car in the garage overnight and put a heater in the garage. It was still cold in the garage, but not as cold as outside. The car started after a 3 tries.

I am going to remove the cable from the Jetronix ECU and the Ignition System ECU and check the pins at #13 on the Jetronix and #2 on the Ignition to see if I can get the resistance with the car cold and hot. If I get any resistance at all then either the Jetronix or the Ignition module is having the issue. If I don't get a resistance, it must be the wiring.

 

please say you checked the cap and rotor?

 

the MAF has nothing to do with it thinking the engine is cold or not, the ECU and ICU use the CTS (coolant temp sensor) for this. the preheater hose really has very minimal function, and the flap should be hard wired shut with some bailing wire or whatever.

 

@pierce As soon as I can I will remove the cables from the ICU and ECU and check pins #13 and #2 to make sure I am getting some resistance from the CTS. If I do, how to I determine if it is the ICU or the ECU causing the issue?

Dist Cap and Rotor replaced.

 

Once again, thank you EVERYONE for your assistance and guidance. I hope I am not making this too frustrating. Thank you for your knowledge and time on this.

 

@pierce You were right. It turns out the Coolant temp sensor tested fine at temperatures way above freezing. I didn't think to test it in the freezer. I went to the junk yard and found a 92 Volvo 240 and used its CTS. The car starts fine now.

I purchased the CTS from Rock Auto:Tested fine at normal temps - Failed at temps near or below freezing.
ÜRO PARTS 1346030 {#13621459197, 8788200, 92860612600} (Standard Replacement) Switch

 

Uro parts are unmitigated junk

 

@Pierce, @silvermine, @act1292 - My son (18) wanted me to make sure I thank you guys for him. He loves that he is able to drive his car to college and work and that he had you guys as well as his dad to help him out with his first car EVER!!

Thank you so much. - Next project is to fix the odometer and fuel gauge/in-tank fuel pump.

 

UPDATE: My son wanted to drive into the city for a concert and the car totally shutdown and was able to start up again 20 minutes later. He went to the concert and made it almost home (1/4 mile away). Had it towed home and found out there was no antifreeze in the reservoir. The car had been exhausting a little white smoke. I added antifreeze and he was able to drive it to school and work, but a great deal of power was lost now. So I decided to check the cylinder head gasket. Here is what I found:

1) thermostat was broken (replacing it)
2) water pump was rusted but still kind working. (replacing it)
3) lots of rust in the fluid. (Replacing with Pentofrost NF after several radiator flushes)
4) Calcium build up in cylinder head ports - lots some ports totally blocked.

The reason the car was constantly running rich, I think, is because it could never get to a good operating temperature. Plus the antifreeze was mixing in the cylinder heads causing the white smoke. Probably a lot more was going on... Once I get it all back together I will be running distilled water w/radiator flush through the engine several times, until it is clear. Then I will fill it up with Pentofreeze NF. We might just have a brand new Volvo.

Sending cylinder head to Napa to be resurfaced ( $95)

Attaching pictures.




Compare new head gasket to old. Wow!!



Going to clean the surface with plastic scrappers to make it clean again.



Look at the deposit build in the ports. One was totally blocked.



Wow!! this was so clogged before I cleaned it a little.



I hope Napa does a good job cleaning it up.



If everything goes well, I will have it back together Wednesday.



I know know so much more about these Volvos now....



It is still fun... so far.