1994 940 Turbo...New Volvo Owner
#1
1994 940 Turbo...New Volvo Owner
HI
I'm legendarydave and I'm a Ford guy...lol Anyway, I'm gonna need a ton of help as I learn this volvo that I bought.
I recently aquired a 94 940 with the B230FT and a blown head gasket. It needs a few other odds and ends. Obviously, my big hurdle id this head and gasket.
Your first task as a community.....I need info about heads and anythin g that I need to do to mine, Before it all goes back together. I'm no rookie but, like I said, I'm a Ford guy...simplicity is my only strong point
This Volvo is better but, still, not better than my ol stanger. The valvetrain is for sure superior. Not having the follower seems brilliant to me.
I am worried mostly because of the pitting on my head. It is a 530 head, I think that matters. Every blocked coolant passage has nasty lookin pitting from overheating and poor maintenance. Do I need to worry? Can I just mill it and be done?
I found a post, in some forum, somewhere, that illustrated a series of holes to be drilled into the head, to improve cooling.... Can anyone advise me on the subject?
The car should prove reliable, so long as I do the job right. Any cylinder expertise is more than appreciated
Cheers
Legendarydave
I will bump my thread as necessary...to get more responses
I'm legendarydave and I'm a Ford guy...lol Anyway, I'm gonna need a ton of help as I learn this volvo that I bought.
I recently aquired a 94 940 with the B230FT and a blown head gasket. It needs a few other odds and ends. Obviously, my big hurdle id this head and gasket.
Your first task as a community.....I need info about heads and anythin g that I need to do to mine, Before it all goes back together. I'm no rookie but, like I said, I'm a Ford guy...simplicity is my only strong point
This Volvo is better but, still, not better than my ol stanger. The valvetrain is for sure superior. Not having the follower seems brilliant to me.
I am worried mostly because of the pitting on my head. It is a 530 head, I think that matters. Every blocked coolant passage has nasty lookin pitting from overheating and poor maintenance. Do I need to worry? Can I just mill it and be done?
I found a post, in some forum, somewhere, that illustrated a series of holes to be drilled into the head, to improve cooling.... Can anyone advise me on the subject?
The car should prove reliable, so long as I do the job right. Any cylinder expertise is more than appreciated
Cheers
Legendarydave
I will bump my thread as necessary...to get more responses
#2
No need to drill holes, completely ignore that. If you find the same head as you have now, that's the best bet.
How badly did the car overheat? If the head isn't warped, it can easily be machined and reused. These engines routinely blow the head gasket at a certain age, most are simply put back together with new gaskets and they're fine, but I strongly suggest having the head skimmed and checked for straightness. Checking for straightness is important as the cam runs in the head, overheating warps the head and the cam can seize in the future.
All you need to replace the head is basic mechanical knowledge, a VRS kit and I'd put anew timing belt and tensioner, plus crank seal in there as well, it's very little more work or cost, and you are there already. I would also suggest new head bolts if you can spare the money.
Also check the crank timing belt gear, the keyway formed into them can shear off, replacements aren't too expensive.
If you are half mechanically minded, you should be able to comfortably have the engine back together and running from stripped down in a day, they are that simple to work on.
How badly did the car overheat? If the head isn't warped, it can easily be machined and reused. These engines routinely blow the head gasket at a certain age, most are simply put back together with new gaskets and they're fine, but I strongly suggest having the head skimmed and checked for straightness. Checking for straightness is important as the cam runs in the head, overheating warps the head and the cam can seize in the future.
All you need to replace the head is basic mechanical knowledge, a VRS kit and I'd put anew timing belt and tensioner, plus crank seal in there as well, it's very little more work or cost, and you are there already. I would also suggest new head bolts if you can spare the money.
Also check the crank timing belt gear, the keyway formed into them can shear off, replacements aren't too expensive.
If you are half mechanically minded, you should be able to comfortably have the engine back together and running from stripped down in a day, they are that simple to work on.
#3
Sorry I havent responded until now...I ended up getting my hands on a low mileage motor from an older car. I plan to rebuild the other motor slowly and focus on efficiency before but, power is easy anyway. Thanks for the heads up on everything...been driving the car since november and so far so good.
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