1995 940 with irs?
#1
#3
Check this out:
1995 95 VOLVO 940 TURBO sedan !!!original owner!!!
The emblem on the trunk says 940 and he's bragging about his irs. And he's calling it a factory upgrade.
1995 95 VOLVO 940 TURBO sedan !!!original owner!!!
The emblem on the trunk says 940 and he's bragging about his irs. And he's calling it a factory upgrade.
#6
#8
#10
If that, considering over 50% of the paint is peeling. What's a decent paint job run these days?
#11
What do you know, last night I sent an email questioning his irs suspension and he removed it from the ad today. Maybe I should ask him about the 30 mpg.
#12
the clearcoat is failing on my mechanically near-perfect 1992 740T wagon... a quality full car repaint would be $6 or $8K around here, and it still wouldn't be as good as the original. even doing just the hood and roof (the main parts that are failing) would be $$$$.
#13
Wow! They've gone up quite a bit since the last time I checked. You're right, if he gave me the car I still wouldn't put that much into it. Years ago I did do my own prep work on a Volkswagen and had the local high school auto shop class spray it...and from 2 miles away it looked pretty good.
#15
more than the car would be worth in perfect as-new condition :-/
the clearcoat is failing on my mechanically near-perfect 1992 740T wagon... a quality full car repaint would be $6 or $8K around here, and it still wouldn't be as good as the original. even doing just the hood and roof (the main parts that are failing) would be $$$$.
the clearcoat is failing on my mechanically near-perfect 1992 740T wagon... a quality full car repaint would be $6 or $8K around here, and it still wouldn't be as good as the original. even doing just the hood and roof (the main parts that are failing) would be $$$$.
You seem to know a lot about the 740-940 series. Let me ask you, I've been looking for a low mileage 1993 or later model because of the L block with oil squirters. Do you think they we're a major improvement to the engine? I heard they don't have the piston slap of earlier ones because of tighter tolerances. Is that so?
#16
heh. if you do your own prep, take off all teh lights and bumpers and trim and stuff, do all the sanding and stripping, laying down some rattle can primer to stop rust, then tow the car into a paint shop, you can get a small local kinda shop to shoot the paint for a lot cheaper than that.
I'd love to have the patience to do a paint job myself but I just don't. its not really that hard, you can even do a good job with quality rattle can paint if you don't want to use a compressor and paint sprayer, its all in the prep and wet sanding. and time and time and time again.
its beginning to look like we may end up volvo-less. we're selling our old 240, and next fall, thinking of getting a 4x4 SUV or pickup-with-shell for adventures, if we get that, my totally sorted out 740T wagon will be surplus, and that will leave us with said (probably Toyota) 4x4, and 3 Mercedes w124 family (daughter's 260E sedan, wife's E320 wagon, and my 300CE cabriolet).
I'd love to have the patience to do a paint job myself but I just don't. its not really that hard, you can even do a good job with quality rattle can paint if you don't want to use a compressor and paint sprayer, its all in the prep and wet sanding. and time and time and time again.
its beginning to look like we may end up volvo-less. we're selling our old 240, and next fall, thinking of getting a 4x4 SUV or pickup-with-shell for adventures, if we get that, my totally sorted out 740T wagon will be surplus, and that will leave us with said (probably Toyota) 4x4, and 3 Mercedes w124 family (daughter's 260E sedan, wife's E320 wagon, and my 300CE cabriolet).
#17
I thought the L blocks with squirters were only on the 94/95 turbo 940's.
I'm still kinda annoyed, one of the first 7/9 wagons I looked at was a low mileage white 95 940T wagon that was in very good condition, albeit a bit pricey ($4500 or something). I hemmed and hawwed for a day, and it was gone.
I'm still kinda annoyed, one of the first 7/9 wagons I looked at was a low mileage white 95 940T wagon that was in very good condition, albeit a bit pricey ($4500 or something). I hemmed and hawwed for a day, and it was gone.
#18
L blocks started in 1993, and the reason they don't SLAP is because of a longer piston skirt. Piston slap is due to the piston moving laterally in the cylinder, having shrunk due to overheating, then shrinking. That famous "squirter" motor is a bit of an overkill, the regular pre '93 motor is plenty good enough for any use.
1993 and later are better as they have bigger tanks, R134 refrigerant, electric fans, pass. side airbag (1994-5), and are well, the last 940, and the newest.
1993 and later are better as they have bigger tanks, R134 refrigerant, electric fans, pass. side airbag (1994-5), and are well, the last 940, and the newest.
#19
#20
The piston slap happens if a b230 is overheated, but not enough to cause other damage. The metal stretches/shrinks and the piston moves a bit causing the slap. Not all b230 get this, obviously they all don't get overheated. The affected engines can last 100k miles more slapping, sound like diesels, more noticeable when cold-- not a desirable feature... BTW, the rings are not affected, just the piston itself shrinks, so oil, compression, etc. are not really affected. With the head off, you can actually move the piston back and forth with your hand, hearing the "slap". The longer skirts of the later motors make the slap much less likely. Still, you don't want a "slapper" if at all possible--turbos are more prone as they heat up more, and more have the slap than NA motors; many turbos will slap at start up, less when warm as the pistons expand. There is really no cure for piston slap other than new pistons.