Hey whats up everyone, I just bought a '78 Volvo 240 and I had a few questions just generally about the choke, and overdrive and what-not. I'm from British Columbia and as you may realize it gets pretty cold, so take that into account. Once I'm able to get my car running using the choke, I start driving and the car stutters a bit, as in I put my foot on the gas, sometimes I don't feel any response from the car (The idle also dies quickly). Sometimes the car will even shut off, not sure if thats just because its not warmed up completely or what, but any advice?

Another thing is, I noticed it had the over-drive switch, you can only switch that in 4th correct? I think I found out the hard way, because one afternoon I realized the switch was on in third (probably 1st and 2nd as well, because I'm pretty sure I didn't accidently click it when I was shifting.) and now it doesn't work at all.

This last one is more of me just looking for re-assurance but its not good for the car to be driven with the choke on, right? My girlfriend did that to it the other day, so now shes my ex.

Any other tips anyone could throw out for 78 240's just let me know, I'm eager to make this car a beast!

 

the spuddering, lack of responce, and dying is most likely due to the engine not being warmed up.

My Mercury Cougar from 81 is carborated and it does the same thing...

so will a chainsaw, weedwacker, or anything else that is carb'd


as far as driving with the choke on... Im not sure this will harm it. just when the car heats up, take it off. (but thats just what i would do. definatly could be wrong)

 

O.K, I assume by the way you've written your question that you have a carburetted engine with a manual choke.
The first thing you should do is set the choke according to a service manual. There will be two settings, one for the amount of choke valve open when choke fully closed (usually set as a gap between choke valve and carb bore) and one for choke idle speed. Choke idle speed is set on a hot engine and adjusted using the fast idle screw on the choke mechanism, NOT the normal idle screw. Check the manual!
So, let's all put that aside and I will talk briefly about using a manual choke. I'm old enough to have owned enough cars with carbs and manual chokes, so I can tell you how to drive with them!
What a choke does is reduce the airflow into the carb and in doing this, it makes the fuel air mixture richer. The choke also increases the vacuum the carburettor experiences below the choke plate, this helps to draw more fuel out of the carburettor at various speeds.
What you need to do is fully apply the choke when starting, give the accelerator a couple of good long pumps too when it is cold out and the engine is cold. This squirts fuel into the intake manifold and makes starting much easier.
Now, as you crank and the engine catches, the choke will probably be too much for the engine after a couple of seconds. SO as the engine starts and begins to run, listen for the engine start to die, then reduce the choke slowly and smoothly till you get a nice smooth idle. When you reduce the choke, the engine will find a sweet spot where the idle speed comes up and it smooths out.
If you adjust the choke till you get a good idle, you can drive off right away with this setting. As you drive and the engine warms up, you'll have to slowly reduce choke till you have no choke on. You will get a feel for this as you do it a few times.
Again, it is perfectly normal to have to drive off with some choke on in colder weather, about 5-10 minutes is not unusual.
The bogging and engine not accelerating you are experiencing is due to a very lean fuel mixture due to not enough choke.
A couple of tips for driving with the choke. If the engine bogs down and feels sluggish when you accelerate and you have choke on, the mixture is too rich. If the engine stutters sharply, hesitates badly and backfires through the carb when you accelerate, you don't have enough choke on.

Regards, Andrew.