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So my heat does not work. I am very car savvy, so my control value does seem to work. My blower motor is blowing and i just replaced my thermo and radiator.
Here is what i found after taking her apart.
After removing the hose from the firewall for the heater core.... the hose from the engine is blocked , it has like plastic covering?.... Next...
A lot of corrosion and parts i do not recognize. What am i looking at here. This is from the passenger side
The wrapped piping you see is for the AC. The black hose on the left is for the heat. Both heater hoses come through the firewall on the drivers side just above and to the right of the gas pedal. That is where the heater control valve is as well - which is more than likely your problem.
The wrapped piping you see is for the AC. The black hose on the left is for the heat. Both heater hoses come through the firewall on the drivers side just above and to the right of the gas pedal. That is where the heater control valve is as well - which is more than likely your problem.
Thank you for reply! not a lot of info about that out there.
okay I may replace that however, what I found is that the upper hose from the engine has been plugged for sealer with some sort of plastic. when I removed the hose, it seems that they melted something to block it entering.... maybe from a previous leak? I bought this vehicle a month ago from a one owner. It’s a beauty but has some quirks like heat.
The heater core may be leaking and instead of replacing it the PO may have just blocked it off. Usually it is bypassed in the engine bay...
That would be a bummer as the joke is that they set the heater core down in the factory and built the car around it. To replace it you have to tear out the entire dash and center console. Not a job for the faint hearted.
That would be a bummer as the joke is that they set the heater core down in the factory and built the car around it. To replace it you have to tear out the entire dash and center console. Not a job for the faint hearted.
I had mine replaced in our 740 last year. I didn't want to do the job so I went to my local Volvo guy. He did it for $900 and no left over parts or cutting. Works great
I had mine replaced in our 740 last year. I didn't want to do the job so I went to my local Volvo guy. He did it for $900 and no left over parts or cutting. Works great
I think I am going to attempt, I hope my labeling skills are up to par. Considering making a video because I could not find a video in my searches. I did find some write ups.
Let me know if you think a decent video would be of value.
I had mine replaced in our 740 last year. I didn't want to do the job so I went to my local Volvo guy. He did it for $900 and no left over parts or cutting. Works great
the 740/940 heater is far easier to repair than the 240. the 7/9 dashboard is far more modular, all the relays are in one panel instead of scattered all over, etc etc.
Hi All,
I am new here and don't know if I'm posting this in the right place or not. Please bear with me.
I have a 93 240 Classic wagon. Our mechanic changed the heater core for us about a year ago. It has worked well since then, but just recently I found a clear oily substance collecting on the driver-side floorboard. Our mechanic said it was the heater-core valve. He replaced it for us, but called to say that the unit only blows hot air now and he can't figure out how to make it stop. (I may have lost my mechanic over this, he is so frustrated with it. He wants to just work on newer cars.)
Do you guys have any thoughts about this? If it has already come up on the forum, maybe you could direct me there. Any help would be appreciated.
Todd
pull out the drivers side kick panel (above/beside the pedals) and you should see the heater hoses come through the firewall and tucked on top of the transmission hump is the heater valve. this is a simple cable actuated mechanical valve...
you have the 'late model' heater valve, a little different than the older style our 87 had, but I replaced our 87's valve with this kit... Volvo 240 heater valve instructions 1348252
which I note can be used for new style, also. the valve in this kit is actually a rather generic older model Dodge pickup truck heater valve, which works out quite nicely in this application.
but, before replacing the valve again, take the covers off, visually inspect it, and move the heat lever on the dash and ensure the bowden cable is opening/closing the heater valve. I can see from the pictures linked above the new style valve is more hidden than the original, but you should be able to see the actuator lever on the back side of the valve, it moves maybe 90 degrees between full off and full on. its quite possible the bowden cable has just become disconnected (fyi, a bowden cable is like a bicycle brake cable, its a wire inside of a sheath used to actuate something by pushing/pulling)
Pierce, Thanks for the quick help.
I just brought the car back from the mechanic. He had already replaced the valve. I took out the kick panel and I can see where the cable goes back. It looks to me like it is moving completely. Is there a chance that even though the cable is moving, or rather, whatever is attached to the cable is moving, that it is not fully connected elsewhere? Don't know if that makes sense, but all of this is new to me.
Todd
the cable is driven by the lever on the dashboard directly. it in turn moves the lever on the heater valve, so if that lever is moving, and the heat isn't shutting off, the valve is not closing for some reason, maybe its not closing far enough when the heater lever is on 'cold' ?
If that is the problem, does the solution involve removing the heater valve again? If so, is that something that is manageable at home?
Also, I meant to say earlier, when you said that the movement was maybe 90 degrees on yours, I would put it at maybe 30 degrees for me, although it is difficult to say for sure because it moves out of sight behind the valve. But judging from the rate of movement and the distance the lever moves, I would guess 30-45 degrees. But definitely not 90.
I'm not sure how hard it is to get those new style 240 valves out, they look pretty buried under there. the old style one was fairly easy, so was the valve on my 740 which was between the engine and firewall.
The problem with replacing the heater control valve on the 240 is finding a good replacement. The originals from Volvo have been not available for many years now. The only one I find online is a kit from Uro - which I have found to be junk parts that last a short while before failing. I tried one originally and it started to leak within a year. After that I had searched the internet for generic heater control valves that had the correct hose size. I then rigged up my own control cable using a lawn mower throttle cable from the local hardware store. When doing this I made sure that the lever on the dash opened and closed the valve fully.
I remember my old MG Midget (I think it was that car) had a MANUAL heater valve under the hood that opened/closed like a garden hose faucet... winter, you opened it up, summer, you closed it down. there was a air flap control on the dash so even if the heat was off, you could shut the hot airflow off.
Here is my view under the dash. Is the round silver piece after the clamp on the hose the heater valve? The letters on the ring read "IC15". It doesn't show in this picture, but the wire movement from the switch runs right behind the round piece.
its kinda gold, but yes, thats the late model 240 heater valve.
the tricky part is, there's another clamp on the other side of it, and when you undo those clamps, coolant is going to come out of those rubber hoses and drain onto your floor.
240 Heat Help
