240 spark plug help
#1
09-17-2009, 08:33 PM
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240 spark plug help
Greetings everyone. I recently got a 92 volvo 240 with about 270k miles on it. It's been running fairly good with a couple of exceptions.
It tends to shake a good deal when sitting in idle. It is otherwise smooth and runs well, albeit a bit on the hot side. On a couple of occasion is has started to sputter and I've lost the ability to accelerate, gets stuck at a low peak RPM. This once happened to the point where I have lost power completely and the car shut off. I was immediately able to restart and it ran fine. On other occasions the RPM just start peaking out. I can shift into higher gears and still accelerate, but much slower than it should be.
For, the most part minor stuff. I had a friend help me change the spark plugs, and now have a much bigger problem... It is misfiring bad, starts but is now undriveable now. I admitedly don't really know what I'm doing, but I want to learn. The plugs were all switched out one at a time. I didn't "gap" the plugs as I was told the plugs were pregapped. I did also replace all the spark plug wires, again one at a time as to not mix up.
So, clearly something didn't go right here. I notice the engine cylinder next to the last spark plug is extremely hot after the car running for a minute. The 3rd one is very hot as well, and the first 2 aren't nearly as hot. What should I be looking for here? I now have a gapping tool, how far should it be spaced? I've recruited another friend with a little more know how, but I'm a little worried about my baby. I figure we will recheck the plugs and check the gapping. It was running ok before. Could I have caused much more damage to where it is a bigger problem the the plugs? Any advice and help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks everyone.
It tends to shake a good deal when sitting in idle. It is otherwise smooth and runs well, albeit a bit on the hot side. On a couple of occasion is has started to sputter and I've lost the ability to accelerate, gets stuck at a low peak RPM. This once happened to the point where I have lost power completely and the car shut off. I was immediately able to restart and it ran fine. On other occasions the RPM just start peaking out. I can shift into higher gears and still accelerate, but much slower than it should be.
For, the most part minor stuff. I had a friend help me change the spark plugs, and now have a much bigger problem... It is misfiring bad, starts but is now undriveable now. I admitedly don't really know what I'm doing, but I want to learn. The plugs were all switched out one at a time. I didn't "gap" the plugs as I was told the plugs were pregapped. I did also replace all the spark plug wires, again one at a time as to not mix up.
So, clearly something didn't go right here. I notice the engine cylinder next to the last spark plug is extremely hot after the car running for a minute. The 3rd one is very hot as well, and the first 2 aren't nearly as hot. What should I be looking for here? I now have a gapping tool, how far should it be spaced? I've recruited another friend with a little more know how, but I'm a little worried about my baby. I figure we will recheck the plugs and check the gapping. It was running ok before. Could I have caused much more damage to where it is a bigger problem the the plugs? Any advice and help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks everyone.
#2
09-17-2009, 09:58 PM
Spark plugs
Maybe you have holes on top of your pistons? or your timing is all off...
Mine would shake so bad (at idle) that the entire car would rock side to side...once I hit the gas and started to drive, specially on the freeway, it was very smooth. I had to change the heads though because of a hole in the old one.
SET THE CAMSHAFT TO THE MARK ON THE BELT COVER
SET THE DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR (INSIDE) FACING THE MARK OR SMALL NOTCH ON THE LIP OF THE DISTRIBUTOR...IT KIND OF FACES THE #1 PISTON.
SET THE MARKS OF THE CRANKSHAFT WITH THAT OF THE PLASTIC COVER THAT READS 0 TO 25 i THINK...SET IT TO ZERO...
CONNECT ALL BELTS...
BUY HAYNES HANDBOOK FOR YOUR MODEL AND YEAR $24 DOLLARS..WORTH IT...IT TELLS YOU STEP BY STEP WITH PICTURES..
My car is running fine now...
SET THE DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR (INSIDE) FACING THE MARK OR SMALL NOTCH ON THE LIP OF THE DISTRIBUTOR...IT KIND OF FACES THE #1 PISTON.
SET THE MARKS OF THE CRANKSHAFT WITH THAT OF THE PLASTIC COVER THAT READS 0 TO 25 i THINK...SET IT TO ZERO...
CONNECT ALL BELTS...
BUY HAYNES HANDBOOK FOR YOUR MODEL AND YEAR $24 DOLLARS..WORTH IT...IT TELLS YOU STEP BY STEP WITH PICTURES..
My car is running fine now...
#4
09-17-2009, 11:34 PM
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I assume the engine is B230F, non-turbo.
First make sure you are using COPPER spark plugs. Either Bosch WR7DC or NGK BPR6ES. Check the gap to 0.30".
Then you should be using a Bougicord ignition wire set.
The shaking could be bad motor mounts. The one on the right gets abused because of dirty oil when changing the oil filter.
Is it automatic or manual tranny?
First make sure you are using COPPER spark plugs. Either Bosch WR7DC or NGK BPR6ES. Check the gap to 0.30".
Then you should be using a Bougicord ignition wire set.
The shaking could be bad motor mounts. The one on the right gets abused because of dirty oil when changing the oil filter.
Is it automatic or manual tranny?
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