1993 240 wagon. Sorry, I added this into 240 forum. Should I delete from General Chat?

The nature of this problem has changed some over the last two years (yes, I've been struggling with it that long) Currently it fires right up then dies immediately. Seems like it has no fuel.Sometimes you can get it to stay running and then it might run all day but if you shut it down it might not restart or it could just die on you, just like someone reached over and turned the key off.

I am trying to quick test the in-tank pump. I removed fuse 4 and jumpered from right side of 6 back to 4 terminal. Turn the key to position #2 and all I hear is a brief whirring sound coming from the external high pressure pump. What do you make of this?

Thanks, I really need some help.

Arne

 

With the car running, you should be able to hear the transfer pump at the fuel filler pipe after removing the gas cap. If you jumper fuse 4 to 6, the pumps should run regardless of the key position, Don't remove the fuse when jumpering.
You can also check for battery voltage at the yellow/red wire connector at the transfer pump. Check the ground wire there, make sure it is clean and tightened down.
Also check the general condition of the 25A blade fuse on the drivers fender inside the engine compartment. It has fatter red wires going to it and it's in a little snap top case. Clean and tighten all ground wires in engine compartment on top of the intake manifold and battery ground wire connections. Spin all ceramic fuses in their holders to remove surface oxidation.

 

if you remove fuse 4, then jumper fuse 6 to one side of 4, you'll run one of the pumps, and if you jumper 6 to the other side of 4, you'll power the other pump. if the fuse is in, you'll power both pumps.

 

you may have no fuel but this may not be caused by fuel delivery, rather from a sensor or the fuel pressure regulator. i'd look at that fpr first.

 

Hey thanks. That's descriptive on the fuses and jumpering. I'll go out and try again.

I have replaced fuel pressure regulator. I have swapped ECU and fuel relay too. This thing is also sluggish when you do get it to run. Not extremely so but just doesn't have much response. Yes, I know it's not a real zippy car but I don't think it's right. And I believe it runs rich. Any other suggestions so welcome.

Thanks,
Arne

 

Is the in-tank pump supposed to keep running when I connect the jumper wire and turn the key? I removed fuse 4 and jumpered from 6 to the left side of 4 which seems to be the in-tank side. When I turn the key you can here the pump run for about 1 second. Is that normal?

Arne

 

the pumps are SUPPOSED to run for a second when you turn on the key. that charges the pressure. then when the engine turns over (pulses from the crank position sensor (LH2.4) or hall sensor (LH2.2)), the pumps should start again. when the engine stops turning over, they shut off about 1 second later.

 

When you jumper a pump, it should run continuously regardless of the key position or indeed even without a key at all.

 

Fochs, are you sure about that? I know you are but I could swear when I have the jumper in place nothing happens until I turn the key. Then, as I've stated I hear the pump for one second or less maybe.
Arne

 

with the fuse in place, using a jumper between fuse 4 (tank pump) and fuse 6 or 7 or 8 (always powered), the pumps should come on immediately even when the ignition is off, and they should stay on til you remove the jumper.

 

OK, minor update friends (and thanks for sticking with me)
I removed the access panel to the in-tank pump. With a jumper between #4 and #7 I can hear the pump whirring steady. It's pretty quiet but unmistakable. #6 has no voltage to it, by the way. Is that right?

So, again this car will fire right up, instantly every time you turn the key and then abruptly die after about 1 second. Fuse #4 has no voltage to it either when the key is turned to position 2. When I start the car I get voltage to fuse 4 for the duration of the one second run time and then continued voltage for another 1 second after the car dies. Is this ringing any bells for you guys?

Now about that 25amp fuse in the fender wall drivers side. I see a 40amp small black box that looks like it goes to the headlamps and I guess it's probably not that one. At the positive battery post there is a bolt-on fuse panel with a 20amp, 40, 60 and 80 I think, and they look a little corroded. But where exactly is this 25 amp fuse or do I even need to check it if I think the transfer pump is definitely working? And does it sound like that pump is working properly?

Thanks again,
Arne

 

there's a LATE version 1993 (final version) that has that fuse block near the battery, and they are wired moderately differently than any other 240. let me pull up that greenbook.

the 30A "Pink" fuse is for the fuel injection and ignition.
the 60A "Yellow" fuse is for the ignition switch, fuses 7-8-9-10 (yes, fuse 6 is NC on this odd version 240) and the 'positive terminal' which feeds the headlight step relay and main light relay.
the 40A "Green" fuse is for the ABS
the 20A "Blue" fuse is for the engine cooling fan.

 

Thanks Pierce. I'll clean those contacts then with particular interest in the pink and yellow terminal. Does this mean I don't have the famous 25amp fuse?

Does it sound to you like my fuel pump is working correctly? If so any ideas where to go next with this?

Thanks mucho,
Arne

 

yeah, that 30A pink fuse replaces the 25A fuse on earlier 240's

 

OK, fuses and contact terminals cleaned. Still, just starts and then stops.
Guys, what else can be causing this?

Changed-MAF, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, ECU, fuel relay, O2 sensor, fuses look good and not corroded, throttle body OK.

Arne

 

Try checking all ground wire connections , then check for vacuum leaks, including the intake hose between the MAF/AMM and the throttle body. That one can rub a hole in the bottom.

Also , in the bentley manual I have, test the ECU grounds:
With the ignition off, test for continuity between the following points at the ECU connector:
-5 and ground
-17 and ground
-19 and ground
-29 and ground
-5 and 19
-5 and 29

To test the engine rpm signal: ( I think it keeps the pumps running)
-1 and ground while cranking the engine. Should get battery voltage, not less than 8V

To test the anti-knock signal:
-28 and ground with the ignition "on" should be ~0.7V

ECU power supply from ignition switch:
-35 and ground with ignition "on" should be 12V

ECU power supply from main relay:
-9 and ground with ignition "off" and terminal 21 grounded should be 12V

ECU power supply from battery:
-4 and ground with ignition "off" should be 12V

My car had a replacement plug to the ECU that was not numbered, but I think that most are numbered on the side of the plug.
I used alligator clip leads and skinny spade connector tips to test ECU to limit damage to plug.

 

OK. Sounds like a long list of connection checks but I'll try to go through them tonight.

Question-is this late year 93 model an LH2.2 with a crank position sensor or not?

Arne

 

its LH2.4, and yeah, that has the crank position sensor. LH2.2 was used on 84(?)-88 and used a hall sensor in the distributor for timing.

no CPS == no spark, and no fuel injection.

 

To test the engine rpm signal: ( I think it keeps the pumps running)
-1 and ground while cranking the engine. Should get battery voltage, not less than 8V


I am getting 5 volts with this test. ran it twice to make sure; digital meter oscillating between 4 and 5 volts.

After cleaning the pink, yellow, blue & green fuses attached to the battery it started up today and kept running. BUT, I don't really think it's because I cleaned the fuses. Remember, going back this problem 2 months ago it would run and then leave you stranded. So, I think it just happened to run. Then, at particular rpm's it shakes and shutters.

HELP!

Arne

 

Now I'm back to "starts then stops". We went in for dinner, came back out and it wouldn't stay running after firing up. My friend seems to think it's because it cooled off. It was hot out this afternoon when it suddenly decided to keep running after start (see my last post above).

Arne