Thanks for the help everyone,

Replacing the timing belt on my 1986 245. I've got the camshaft gear aligned with the rear timing cover mark, and the intermediate gear aligned with the rear timing cover mark. Where to align the keyway in the crankshaft gear is not so clear... picture below. I've looked through the forums and the Haynes manual. It just doesn't seem completely clear on my engine. I see a slight protrusion on the ridge just a little bit clockwise from the keyway in the photo. Is this the alignment mark? The keyway I'm referring to is at approximately 11 o'clock in the photo. If so, it doesn't line up with "0" on the lower timing belt cover... it lines up more with "15". I feel like the keyway should line up with the "0" on the lower cover, but that line doesn't seem to correspond with any mark on the picture below. Can anyone give me some guidance?

Thanks again!

 

Yes, that's the mark, at the 11 o'clock... Or just Google 'Volvo b230 timing marks' and you'll get a slew of info...

 

Okay, thanks. I guess my question now is, why doesn't the "0" on the lower timing belt cover align with this mark? My knowledge of engine timing is limited and I'm hoping someone can satiate my curiosity

 

With much frustration I can inform you that once I finally got everything lined up and ready to put back together, I sheared off the tensioner pulley bolt. Apparently my torque wrench isn't working correctly... oi. Sheared off about 1/2" from end, in the threaded section.

So, what now? I'm hoping this bolt is a stud that threads into the block. If so, can anyone give me some tips on how to remove? I'm assuming vice grips... and I'm also assuming this sucker is in there pretty good if I sheared it off by putting too much torque on it. Also, can anyone point me in the direction of finding the correct stud? Haven't had any luck online.

And if it's not a stud threaded into the block... how screwed am I?

 

That stud is threaded into the head. I would use a vice grips to try to get it out. Grip as close to the head as possible. If it doesn't want to budge, you could try applying heat to the aluminum head to get it to expand a bit.

If all that fails, you'll have to pull the head off and maybe take it to a machine shop for extraction/replacement.

I assume you were tightening when it sheared. That's one of the reasons they have torque specs these. If you were loosening, then it must have been the previous mechanic that overtightened.

 

You should be able to get that out! Could be much worse; use heat and a decent extractor tool. Just ViseGrips may not be up to the task.

 

Thanks to both of you. Does a hair dryer work for heat application, or something a bit heavier duty - heat gun?

act1292, as mentioned, my torque wrench must not be functioning properly. I set it to 37 ft-lbs, and it never clicked before the bolt gave way.

 

Need more heat than a hair drier. Maybe more than a heat gun as well. I use a propane torch on aluminum.

Sorry - I missed that about the torque wrench.