I just picked up my second Volvo today. It is a 1984 240 GL (244?/4 door). It has a 4 speed manual transmission (one reason I bought it) and the overdrive is not working. The arrow is on and when I push the button the arrow light goes out and an OD light comes on but I had it over 50 mph and the revs did not drop. My 740 shifts into OD around 45 mph.
By my user name I have a 1988 740 GLE wagon that is an automatic. I used this info to get the overdrive to work on it: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...e2/#post282241 (bottom of page one and page two) Will this work on a manual shift car as I would try this first?
The second question I have, the car needs suspension work. I have searched suppliers and it seems to show some of these cars equipped with high pressure struts and shocks and some with out high pressure. How can I determine which one my car has?
I am sorry if these are redundant questions but I did a thread/post search and read quite a few but did not find any that answered my questions.
Thanks in advance for any input/advice/help/guidance. Jim

 

UPDATE: It seems there was a used overdrive relay in the glove box. I popped the top off. Does anyone know if the contact is open or closed to engage overdrive? If I know which way to wedge the contact (open or closed) I can install it to see if it fixes my problem.

 

there's a wiring diagram of an 85 240 here, http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...985_PRELIM.pdf

the page in question would be...


and it looks like its not a simple relay, it has some electronics in it. 'D' is the button on the gear lever, and 'G' is a switch in the gearbox that probably says its in 4th so it won't go into OD in 1/2/3 (bypassing this is a good way to break the OD unit in a hurry).

it looks like if the OD light is lit, then power is getting through the relay, so that means the problem is the solenoid or the OD unit itself.

 

oh. re: shocks, I'd suggest using Bilstein TC (Touring). they are a definite upgrade from the factory Boge shocks, but not so stiff as to harsh out your ride, in fact, they are the stock shocks on many Mercedes Benz, and will definitely improve your ride.

I would NOT use a heavy duty super-stiff 'racing' sort of shock unless you are also putting in stiffer-than-stock sport springs as the shock (damper) plus spring are a balanced system.

I'd not be even a little surprised to find your car needs a healthy dose of bushings in both the front and rear suspension... the factory ones are 25+ years old now. I'd stick with Volvo factory rubber ones, don't go poly.

 

pierce,
Thanks for your reply/advice, pic and pdf.
I was looking for an easy (and relatively clean) fix on the OD. I need to do some work under the car and will be more thorough. I am taking your suspension advise under advisement and I was not planning on running a stiff suspension.
I've found a few things wrong with the car I didn't notice when I was looking at it to purchase but I have sorted out a few things that were not right already that I did know about.
How about this situation. The car does not start the first time you turn the key and crank it or the second time. Fires right up the third time. What's that about???
My plan for this car is to only use it as a backup to my 740 wagon. I'd like to keep it under 5000 miles/year as that gets it out of needing emission inspected here in the fine state of Pa. It does need it's yearly inspection(s) now.

 

does that 84 use the EIS LH2.2 injection, or CIS KE-Jetronic injection ? the CIS aka KE system has a fuel distributor and the injectors don't have wires to them, while the EIS LH has a fuel rail and the injectors each have an electric connection.

I know next to nothing of CIS/KE troubleshooting.

 

Pierce,
I looked at the engine and it does have a fuel rail with electrical connections on each injector. Should make it the EIS LH. Any ideas on the starting glitch?

 

although these are for 7xx/9xx cars, the engines are basically the same, I'd go down this list... Engine Tune and Performance:

ignore anything referring to a 'radio suppression relay', 240's dont have that. your car is closest to the LH2.2 cars talked about there (no OBD either, thats LH2.4, in 89+ cars)

the fact that it takes 3 cranks to start makes me wonder about the cold start injector and the residual fuel pressure, also the condition of the spark plugs and distributor cap+rotor and wires.

 

pierce,
You seem to have a wealth of information and I appreciate that you are willing to share it and to help me out.
I have begun to rethink my plans for the car. I still plan to use it sparingly but the order I use to fix it up has changed. I am going to start with the engine. I am looking at ipd for plugs,cap wires etc.
My first priority is to change the flame trap (on order). I had never heard of this part 'til this weekend. It might be why there is a lot of oil/grunge all over the engine. Then the plugs etc. and from there I will move onto the front suspension parts I need.
I also intend to use seafoam before I put it in for inspection. I need to have the car pass at least one more emission test. The regular inspection should be passable (at least I hope so and I will find out).

 

I'd just pull and inspect your plugs, only replace them if they look fried. ditto the cap+rotor, often you can clean them and its good for awhile longer. the flame trap is too clogged to soak in solvent and brush and blow out?

 

I wanted a second flame trap so I could remove the used one and install the second. That way if I would need the car I could use it without having to be sure that it was cleaned right away. I will check the plugs etc to see if I can determine condition. The wires are the most expensive part and the rest does not seem too expensive.
I am going to purchase this: 1983-1993 1989 1990 1991 1992 VOLVO 240 Service Manual - eBay (item 270608098059 end time Sep-08-11 08:31:11 PDT)
although not from feeBay. I think this is the "Blue Book" that I see mentioned on Volvo Forums.
I bought my 740 from my brother. He had a Haynes manual for it that I got but I will be getting the blue book for it too. My brother did a lot of work/maintainance on the car before I got it so I am hoping I can put that book purchase off for a brief time. I think the blue book was/is from Volvo. I used to work with a guy into early Datsun Z/ZX cars, (This was back in the 90's. I owned a lot of them. They are a whole different animal but I digress) and he called Haynes/Chilton et al manuals "A Good Source of Bad Information." I have tried to keep that philosophy. It has been a while since I actually worked on my own vehicles.

 

thats is indeed the Bentley book. its OK but its wiring diagrams are almost unreadable

the real volvo shop stuff is known as 'green books' (and a full set of docs for a specific model year and model car fills a binder). I have only the 1992 740/940 wiring diagram green book, its far better than any aftermarket diagrams I've seen.

sample page:

 

I've seen the green books on feeBay too but not any that I would specifically buy right now. The front suspension one in the future may be in the works.

 

I got my flame trap kit today. It is installed. It was absolutely NO fun trying to put it in. IMO-whoever designed this should be beaten profusely!!!
The kit I bought had new hoses with it. I got to thinking AFTER I installed them, is it possible to put this in a more accessible location? It seems like you could use part of the hose to the intake to relocate the flame trap.
One other thing, the flame trap that I removed has a brass screen in it. It is plugged shut and soaking at this time. Is this the original as the new one I bought has a plastic screen?

 

I am pretty sure the whole oilbox/flametrap thing needs to be right on the block so the oil it catches drains back.

 

Check IPD; I seem to recall seeing a conversion kit in their catalog for older 240's..

 

Joesph/TX, Thanks for the tip. I now don't feel that good about my purchase. You are right, I coulda/shoulda bought this: Flame Trap Relocation Kit