740 GLE Head Gasket Replacement

  #1  
Old 04-05-2019, 12:21 PM
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Default 740 GLE Head Gasket Replacement

Good day all, Iím new to the forum and Volvo ownership. I recently purchased a 740 GLE and have come to the conclusion that I need to replace the head gasket based on some things I read on this forum when I was trying to diagnose a misfire that I have.

I havenít been able to find an old Chiltons manual or anything as of yet to help me with instructions and I was hoping somebody on here might have a guide to it or a video or anything that might help me to not screw this up.

any assistance, thoughts, or words of wisdom would be massively appreciated. Cheers.

 
  #2  
Old 04-05-2019, 12:33 PM
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check out volvotips.com
 
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Old 04-05-2019, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mt6127 View Post
check out volvotips.com
thank you for the website. I tried to use it, but the pages say ďunder constructionĒ and the menu doesnít work. Iím going to try again later from a non-Mac and see if it will work.
 
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:28 PM
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Default I had same issue

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Hea...sketRepair.htm. just replaced my head gasket. This link is fully informative. All info that is needed
 

Last edited by DenvBroncos; 06-21-2019 at 09:30 PM. Reason: Add text
  #5  
Old 06-22-2019, 07:13 AM
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You said you think the head gasket is bad based on diagnostics from this form. What exactly did you find to verify it. Low or no compression , water in the oil or oil in the water. Exhaust gasses in the coolant system. White smoke pouring out of the exhaust pipe or overheating. Be a little more specific before you dive into pulling the motor apart.
 
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Old 06-22-2019, 01:03 PM
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thats a 16 valve, so you have the DOHC B234F engine, instead of the more common B230F single cam. guessing the head gasket on a dohc is a more complex job.

but what jagtoes says..
 
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Old 06-22-2019, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes View Post
You said you think the head gasket is bad based on diagnostics from this form. What exactly did you find to verify it. Low or no compression , water in the oil or oil in the water. Exhaust gasses in the coolant system. White smoke pouring out of the exhaust pipe or overheating. Be a little more specific before you dive into pulling the motor apart.
Mom basing the diagnosis off the Volvo mechanics recommendation who took care of the car the last 15 years. Itís got no compression in the cylinder closest to the firewall and he told me the head has some stuck valves most likely the issue. I decided to try and remove the head to see what the issue was either the head gasket or the head itself etc. however Iíve been messing about with it and so far unsuccessful in removing it. Been tough as Iím not the most amazing mechanic and I canít find any guide or info on how to take this car apart this far. Currently stuck trying to get the lower two belts off the engine to get at the lower timing cover.
 
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Dernz3428 View Post
Mom basing the diagnosis off the Volvo mechanics recommendation who took care of the car the last 15 years. Itís got no compression in the cylinder closest to the firewall and he told me the head has some stuck valves most likely the issue. I decided to try and remove the head to see what the issue was either the head gasket or the head itself etc. however Iíve been messing about with it and so far unsuccessful in removing it. Been tough as Iím not the most amazing mechanic and I canít find any guide or info on how to take this car apart this far. Currently stuck trying to get the lower two belts off the engine to get at the lower timing cover.
OK no compression can mean a few things but pulling the head might be the next step. Apparently it sound like you are going to have a steep learning curve based on your progress. Worse case just cut the belts off as you'll need to replace them anyway. Also with the twin cam motors you'll need to make sure the timing is set to the marks prior to removing the belts and the head. Everything is straight forward as you need to remove anything attached to the head then the head itself. Good luck
 
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Old 06-23-2019, 02:49 PM
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re stuck valves, with the valve cover off you should be able to check each valve with shims, any stuck valve would be pretty obvious.
 
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Old 06-23-2019, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce View Post
re stuck valves, with the valve cover off you should be able to check each valve with shims, any stuck valve would be pretty obvious.
I figured if I pulled the head off I could see multiple things potentially wrong and do the gaskets I wouldíve needed to probably do anyway. The head removal is straight forward to me Iím just stuck at figuring out how to detension the two lower belts as there isnít a tensioner pulley.
 
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Old 06-23-2019, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes View Post
OK no compression can mean a few things but pulling the head might be the next step. Apparently it sound like you are going to have a steep learning curve based on your progress. Worse case just cut the belts off as you'll need to replace them anyway. Also with the twin cam motors you'll need to make sure the timing is set to the marks prior to removing the belts and the head. Everything is straight forward as you need to remove anything attached to the head then the head itself. Good luck
My concern with cutting them was that I donít know how to tension them upon the rebuild. Trying to figure it out so I know how it goes together. I see all the tensioners for my cam belts and the alternator belt just not the power steering and AC
 
  #12  
Old 06-23-2019, 05:58 PM
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the power steering pump and a/c compressor should be mounted on pivots, each with a tensioning screw. similar to the alternator.

here's the PS pump, see part #22, thats the tension adjuster, it moves the whole pump (#3) via brackets #20 and #21. the AC compressor has a similar setup.

 
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