Hello Volvo forum! I just acquired a 1990 740 GLE Regina sytstem with a feul-delivery no-start situation.
Apparently the car was running last September, then the owner died, the car sat for several months, and now will not start. The guy who inherited the car tried to start it, then had it towed to a garage. They said the gas tank was empty. They were able to provide fuel remotely and the car runs fine. So; following older threads on this great site, I have removed the FPR and tested voltage there, and it is fine. Stuck a jumper wire to bypass the FPR and still nothing. Then I undid the electrical connection for the fuel pump at the rear driver's side wheel well. The voltage read here is only 6.3V. Does that sound right? If so, great! I'm on to the fuel pump (I think). If not, any ideas about where to find this voltage drop? I'm thinking it's possible when the guy tried to start it with an empty tank, he fried the pump. Does that make sense?
Also, assuming ultimately it is the pump: according to a related linked article (https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Fue...eplacement.htm) special procedures (using fishing line or some other restraint) need to be taken to ensure proper placement of the sending unit back in the tank. Is this really necessary? Anybody here done this job? I found one Youtube video of a guy doing it but he didn't mention anything about having to temporarily tie anything. Any help is immensely appreciated.

 

"...FPR, tested voltage there"? Hmm, there is no voltage at the FPR! And FPR won't prevent starting. Then, If pump is "fried", the voltage "drop" is before it, no?

What about the Fuel Injection relay? Do you HEAR the relay click? Do you hear the pump prime, "buzz", for a second or two when you turn the key to position 2?

Installing the new pump, not that you are sure that that's the problem, is a bit a of a pain. The string method is used but I personally find it more complicated.

 

I don't understand your comment(s). "There is no voltage at the FPR!" -- There must be voltage at the Fuel Pump Relay in order to activate the it, no? Yes, of course there is voltage at the FPR! When I said "Still nothing", I mean no response from the fuel pump.

"And FPR won't prevent starting." -- If the fuel pump relay is faulty, of course it would prevent starting. But I have bypassed it and still no joy.

The voltage reading at the connection near the rear driver's side wheel well is 6.3 volts. Is this normal? Should it be 12v here, and if so, what are the possible suspects? (What is between the relay and this connection that could account for this difference?)

 

FPR commonly means Fuel Pressure Regulator.

the relay is actually the Fuel SYSTEM Relay, as it has two halves, one half powers the ECU and injection system, and the other half powers the fuel pump.

 

Oh! I gotta work on my acronyms...
Anyway, do you know if 6.3V at that connection I mentioned is an indication of something amiss? My amateur mind would say it should be 12V to the pump in order to activate it, but I don't know. And my question remains: if there should be 12V at that connection (12V to the pump), could that make it seem as if the pump is not working, and also, if 6.3V is not right, what could cause such a drop?

 

was this measured with the pump disconnected? open circuit voltage readings can pick up spurious voltages since the circuit resistance is so high.

do note, the fuel pump should only run for about 1 second when the engine is first turned on, then it shuts off, until you crank the engine over, and the ECU sees crankshaft position pulses, then its started again and runs til the engine stops turning over.

 

Yes, I disconnected the pump to check the voltage. Are you saying I might get a different reading with the pump still attached? Even more to the point: How can I test to know the pump is receiving the correct voltage? Is that even possible without removing the unit from the tank?

As far as the pump only running for about 1 second when the engine is first turned on: my understanding is that with a relay bypass connection in place, the pump would run continuously. Is this an incorrect assumption?

 

yes, if you removed the fuel pump relay, and jumper the correct two pins, the pump should be powered continuously.

The Regina pump is fused. and the power for it comes from the master 25 amp FI fuse. Fuse 1 for the whole EFI system and fuse 11 for the fuel pump. to jumper the fuel pump, relay E, pin 3(30) to pin 5(87/2).

Do be sure to get a REGINA in-tank pump if you find you need to replace it, and not a Bosch one... the Bosch tank pump is a low pressure 'transfer' pump, while the Regina in tank pump is the main high pressure FI pump.

 

Any recommendations for best aftermarket fuel pump brands or brands to avoid?

 

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...-delco-3507736

 

I went ahead and had my Volvo mechanic order a pump from Professional Parts Sweden.
I'll post an update in a day or so.

 

ProPartsSweden is another 'reboxer', same as Febi etc. who knows whats in their boxes?

 

Clever marketing, then, using "Sweden" in the name. Anyway, it was the first thing that came up when my mechanic looked up the AC Delco pump from his supplier. This guy only works on Volvos and has been doing so for close to 40 years, so I'm hoping it'll be alright!
I sure wish I had my '63 122S back. Now THAT was a car that made sense (OK, except for the carburetors).

 

its quite possible the proparts box will have a delco pump in it.

 

Proparts is quite substandard brand, Asian... I'd splurge for a Volvo OEM pump. Doing a pump is no fun, you don't want to do it over.

 

When I did the fuel pump on my 940 Regina I bought the whole assembly... Volvo oe... for about $450 from fcpeuro. The part I bought is now listed as no longer available through fcp. Bought mine about 3 years ago and have had no fuel delivery issues since.

 

There look to be a few things to be careful of (the quick connect, the seal, the plastic threaded ring, positioning the unit in the tank when reinstalling). Beyond those aspects, why is this such a difficult job?

 

when I did the tank pump on my 1992 740T, the ring flat did NOT want to go back on, it was like it had gone conical and wouldn't stay on the threads, ended up having to buy a new ring (and o-ring seal). getting the assembly in there without knocking the 'sock' off is a BITCH because of baffling inside the tank (and, this was a wagon where there's way more room to work on it)

 

So it might be a good idea to go ahead and purchase a new ring. I had a suspicion this might be a bugger. And I imagined the sock might be an issue. This is a wagon I'm working on. Is it not possible to position lighting to help with positioning of the unit?

 

The "ring" shrinks. After you take it off, put it back on after you take the pump out. When you reinstall it, put vaseline on it--don't need a new one.



You don't need the whole unit if the gauge is working fine, just the pump itself.


Installing the pump back is challenging, that's where the "string method" comes in handy.