740 Wiring order
#1
740 Wiring order
Can't find the paper I wrote the wires order on. Can anyone help.
I only remember 4-3-1-2. Some missing going on.
Left to right (Clockwise)
1990 Rex 740 GL SOHC
Last steps in completing head gasket change.
Starts right up, stays running, but cuts out when giving throttle gas.
Cuts vacumm
I only remember 4-3-1-2. Some missing going on.
Left to right (Clockwise)
1990 Rex 740 GL SOHC
Last steps in completing head gasket change.
Starts right up, stays running, but cuts out when giving throttle gas.
Cuts vacumm
#4
RE: 740 Wiring order
Yes, it is hooked up. Howevever, found the new flame trap vaccumm side broken (just like my old one). Plug it til I get another. Runs quite a bit low on idle, around 800. Will wake up tommorrow to finish.
I dont know if plugging the vaccumm side (hose into manifold) is enough. What should I do at the flame trap itself, it is open? This could be the entire problem. I will find out when I get another.
Strange happenings, I do see a spark inside the distributor cap (new). What could this be, you can see it really well at night. This is one of the reasons I thought my Firing order was wrong. But this is the best order everything idles best, or even starts correctly.
Could I have a bad distributor cap, and or rotor out of the box? This one had a black cover on it, unlike the one I replaced.
Thanks for all your replies in advance.
I dont know if plugging the vaccumm side (hose into manifold) is enough. What should I do at the flame trap itself, it is open? This could be the entire problem. I will find out when I get another.
Strange happenings, I do see a spark inside the distributor cap (new). What could this be, you can see it really well at night. This is one of the reasons I thought my Firing order was wrong. But this is the best order everything idles best, or even starts correctly.
Could I have a bad distributor cap, and or rotor out of the box? This one had a black cover on it, unlike the one I replaced.
Thanks for all your replies in advance.
#5
RE: 740 Wiring order
Are the plug wires new?
If the cap has a black cover on it then it should be a bosch cap. It should also have the cylinder #'s on the cap.
The flame trap open will not make the car run crappy.
But if one of the wires are bad you will see the spark arking. Also double check and make sure the cap is seated properly.
If the cap has a black cover on it then it should be a bosch cap. It should also have the cylinder #'s on the cap.
The flame trap open will not make the car run crappy.
But if one of the wires are bad you will see the spark arking. Also double check and make sure the cap is seated properly.
#6
RE: 740 Wiring order
No, the wires are about a year old, and I will replace them, now. I just bought them this past spring, and thought they'd be ok.
New items were:
Plugs(Volvo), dist. cap(bosch/borg warner box), rotor(org-warner), gasket set (head(Elring)), water pump(aftermarket), heater control valve(aftermarket), hoses at heater core, others are less than 6 months old, flame trap kit, including hoses (now broken vac side), and timing belt(aftermarket).
I don't believe I missed anything. I will go back, and check connections again, and get new wires. My biggest problem, is finding the correct coil wire in the DFW area. I may have to order online or something.
Thanks, I will possibly get to it today, raining hard, and go to get to work at 6pm.
I will let you know.
New items were:
Plugs(Volvo), dist. cap(bosch/borg warner box), rotor(org-warner), gasket set (head(Elring)), water pump(aftermarket), heater control valve(aftermarket), hoses at heater core, others are less than 6 months old, flame trap kit, including hoses (now broken vac side), and timing belt(aftermarket).
I don't believe I missed anything. I will go back, and check connections again, and get new wires. My biggest problem, is finding the correct coil wire in the DFW area. I may have to order online or something.
Thanks, I will possibly get to it today, raining hard, and go to get to work at 6pm.
I will let you know.
#7
RE: 740 Wiring order
Yesterday, I replaced the plugs, and it did increase some power. I am able to drive up to about 70 mph going downhill. Defiinately struggles going uphill, or any fast acceleration. Today, I finally drove it somewhere other than around 2 mile radius.
I seems like a vacuum is missing somewhere. However, I haven't checked yet what the codes mean, because I wanted to let you know what I found.
The codes which came up were at point 2: 3-1-1, an 2-3-2. Point 6 was good at: 1-1-1. I checked 3x's to verify.
I will look them up before I go to work and let you know.
I also believe, maybe my o2 sensor, and/or exhaust could be related to lack of acceleration.
FYI: It is extremely difficult for car to go from 2nd to 3rd, and easy from 3rd to 4th gear (AT). I don't think tranny is relevant just FYI.
I seems like a vacuum is missing somewhere. However, I haven't checked yet what the codes mean, because I wanted to let you know what I found.
The codes which came up were at point 2: 3-1-1, an 2-3-2. Point 6 was good at: 1-1-1. I checked 3x's to verify.
I will look them up before I go to work and let you know.
I also believe, maybe my o2 sensor, and/or exhaust could be related to lack of acceleration.
FYI: It is extremely difficult for car to go from 2nd to 3rd, and easy from 3rd to 4th gear (AT). I don't think tranny is relevant just FYI.
#9
RE: 740 Wiring order
OK, tech,
This is the progress report.
Replaced O2 sensor(Bosch direct fit), after checking for the vac/O2sensor signal (2-3-2), just as you stated. Immediately after replacing O2 sensor, my codes at 2 are now: 1-1-1, unbelievable.
It ran about 50% better. I drove it to work last night (55 miles round trip). It still struggled going up hill, only not as bad as before the O2 Sensor.
When I got back home this morning. Found my vac line at my heater control valve had come off. Re-installed it. Oh what a difference in performance here. About 50-60% increase, and I could go up hills, and my RPM's finally got to, and just over 3000.
However, after taking the kids to school in the morn, I will sleep, and wake up, and attempt to re-adjust my timing at distributor cap. Because when opening the throttle body, there is this Hollow sound coming out of the engine, (like a whooping cough). The car does not backfire, only while revving it up, this bronchitis type howling. Since putting the vac hose back on, I have yet to check for the howling.
I also, think I need to purchase those flexible tips for the small vac hoses. I found a website during this week, and can't find it again. They sell screws, flex tips, and all other small, and big pieces for Volvos, for an excellent price.
I even sprayed my FI's with carb cleaner to check for leaks because the new seals at the base of the Injectors, are so much fuller than the old nasty ones I replaced. There was not one leak here. Consequently, I had to crank so far down, just to seat injectors in manifold.
I really appreciate all your feedback for me, and others here.
Kevin
This is the progress report.
Replaced O2 sensor(Bosch direct fit), after checking for the vac/O2sensor signal (2-3-2), just as you stated. Immediately after replacing O2 sensor, my codes at 2 are now: 1-1-1, unbelievable.
It ran about 50% better. I drove it to work last night (55 miles round trip). It still struggled going up hill, only not as bad as before the O2 Sensor.
When I got back home this morning. Found my vac line at my heater control valve had come off. Re-installed it. Oh what a difference in performance here. About 50-60% increase, and I could go up hills, and my RPM's finally got to, and just over 3000.
However, after taking the kids to school in the morn, I will sleep, and wake up, and attempt to re-adjust my timing at distributor cap. Because when opening the throttle body, there is this Hollow sound coming out of the engine, (like a whooping cough). The car does not backfire, only while revving it up, this bronchitis type howling. Since putting the vac hose back on, I have yet to check for the howling.
I also, think I need to purchase those flexible tips for the small vac hoses. I found a website during this week, and can't find it again. They sell screws, flex tips, and all other small, and big pieces for Volvos, for an excellent price.
I even sprayed my FI's with carb cleaner to check for leaks because the new seals at the base of the Injectors, are so much fuller than the old nasty ones I replaced. There was not one leak here. Consequently, I had to crank so far down, just to seat injectors in manifold.
I really appreciate all your feedback for me, and others here.
Kevin
#11
RE: 740 Wiring order
I guess i could take out manifold again. Do you suggest that is the best way to check?
I did the SeaFoam cleaning, and nothing came out of tailpipe at all. It's possible because I did the SeaFoam cleaning only a few months ago.
Could I be a tooth off on my timing belt this time, this would cause lack of HP, right?
I did the SeaFoam cleaning, and nothing came out of tailpipe at all. It's possible because I did the SeaFoam cleaning only a few months ago.
Could I be a tooth off on my timing belt this time, this would cause lack of HP, right?
#14
RE: 740 Wiring order
Well Tech,
I started off today, determined to complete this job. I went and got the fuel filter, put it on. Opened up the pipe right before the catalytic converter, and clean the mess out of it. It actually was pretty clean. I sanded the metal gasket between the cat, and pipe to head. This was the most sooted item for the entire month.
Anyway, after putting everything back together, same no hill accelleration. So off to the last and most time breaking of all, but yet the cheapest. Re-checked the timing we did last weekend.
Wow, the top was on point, but the bottom two marks were off! Quite a bit, I add. Crankshaft only 2 teeth, but the idler, 5-6 teeth.
Corrected that, closed all up, and She ran uphill, around town, and back, without a hiccup. lol
Thanks for all help.
At least I got a complete tune-up, and more.
Now, I am ready to sell it. I want to get my 960, what do you think.
Kevin
1990 740GL Rex 215K
I started off today, determined to complete this job. I went and got the fuel filter, put it on. Opened up the pipe right before the catalytic converter, and clean the mess out of it. It actually was pretty clean. I sanded the metal gasket between the cat, and pipe to head. This was the most sooted item for the entire month.
Anyway, after putting everything back together, same no hill accelleration. So off to the last and most time breaking of all, but yet the cheapest. Re-checked the timing we did last weekend.
Wow, the top was on point, but the bottom two marks were off! Quite a bit, I add. Crankshaft only 2 teeth, but the idler, 5-6 teeth.
Corrected that, closed all up, and She ran uphill, around town, and back, without a hiccup. lol
Thanks for all help.
At least I got a complete tune-up, and more.
Now, I am ready to sell it. I want to get my 960, what do you think.
Kevin
1990 740GL Rex 215K
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