83 244GL has intermittent failure to start

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Old 06-14-2011, 11:36 AM
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Default 83 244GL has intermittent failure to start

Hi Guys and Gals,
I have a 1983 Volvo 244GL Non TURBO, Fuel Injected with only 83,000 miles on it...my mom's old car. I am having problems with it. It starts fine for a couple of errands and then if i let it sit for an hour it won't start ! Tough since my daughter likes to use it but I can't rely in it for a long drive. Here are my observations so far, may or may not be related.
Car did not have back up light working...bulbs ok...switch in shifter did not have power but was working correctly. The power was fine at the fuse box...ran a new wire to the switch...all good now.
The whole time I would notice the "bulb out" idiot light come on for a split second, when using the blinkers or applying the brakes....all lights work.
Still comes on the same way, now that the back-up lights are working.

Anyways, I am now having start problems. It will start fine for a few days then one day it will be used for 2-3 errands and during the fourth start after about an hours rest it will not start. I have checked and hear both fuel pumps running. Fuel pressure appears fine to be delivered fine to the engine compartment. Ignition has a good spark at the plugs. I am thinking Fuel Injector pulse problems. I replaced both Fuel Pump Relays under the right hand dashboard. It worked once again fine for a few days and same thing again. Replaced one of the relays with one of the old relays and it started up . Not sure what is going on...any ideas Gentlemen and Ladies? Would these same symptoms be cause by the Hall Effect Sensor ( not sure about the name..just read something in some replies to others)..from what I understand, it is on the side of the distributor....could it be failing AND have a heat problem? Just a thought......Would appreciate any ideas, thoughts or suggestions.....Oh one more thing...Timing belt is fine....I have limited resources ....simple backyard mechanic...I know enough to make me dangerous and stupid enough to try....LMAO
 

Last edited by Jetswede; 06-14-2011 at 11:37 AM. Reason: additional info
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:39 PM
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is an 83 KE-Jetronic (aka CIS-E, sometimes called mechanical injection), or is it LH2.2-Jetronic aka EIS (Electronic injection) EIS has a wire to each fuel injector, while CIS has all the injectors connected to a fuel distributor / pressure pump thing.
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:37 PM
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EIS...wire to each injector
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:52 PM
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well, thats probably a good thing as more of us have experience with LH systems.

I'd start with this troubleshooting FAQ.... its written for 700/900's but the non-turbo LH2.2 engines are pretty much the same on either model. only significant difference is, the 240 does not have the 'radio suppression relay', and what relays and such it does have are generally in different places. but the basic engine stuff all works the same...

Engine Tune and Performance

ignore 'regina' (thats an alternate non-Bosch ignition system used on some later 700/900s) and LH2.2 doesn't have the 'on board diagnostics that the LH2.4 did.
 
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:06 PM
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Default 83 244GL has intermittent failure to start - update

Hello Everyone,

I have now replaced the Spark plug wires, the Coil, the Distributor Cap and rotor.....previously replaced both Fuel pump relays in search of finding the problem with the intermittent start problem. Worked fine for until it sat in my garage for two weeks....now it won't fire off...just cranks and cranks.

Previously the no start issues happened when the engine was warm and sat for an hour..... Now it sat for 2 weeks and won't start...not a heat issue then ....planning on towing it to the Volvo Dealer unless someone can come up with something new to check....I can't allow my daughter to drive it if it is NOT reliable....HELP !!! I'm located in Danbury, CT HELP !!!
 

Last edited by Jetswede; 08-08-2011 at 08:07 PM. Reason: forgot to city name...
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Old 08-10-2011, 08:22 PM
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I have a post on here for my '84 244GL which has the same issue yours has now. When cold, it will not start 'til I crank it the third (3rd) time and then it fires right up. I have not found the reason/problem yet but if I do I will be sure to let you know.
If you do end up taking your car to the dealer I would like to know what they find, if you would please.
 
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Old 08-11-2011, 07:38 AM
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Hi, thanks for commenting on my post....yeah i have no idea what is going on....but i will keep you posted if i find something...please let me know if you come across something.....Pierce is a GREAT wealth of information....i am hoping that he reads my updates and replies to me too. There are many others on here that are very knowledgable and active but my post has been quiet lately...not sure if people have run out of ideas or just on vacation....LOL.

I would hate to junk the car because it is spotless and only 83K original miles...my moms car...she is now 91 and gave up driving ..LMAO

Good Luck,
Jetswede
 
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Old 08-11-2011, 10:02 AM
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as I suggested before, go down this list of potential problems, Engine Tune and Performance:
(I note I may have used a different link that seems to be broken now, versions of this same FAQ are on various sites, I find it by googling for `7xx faq`).

as I said before, its written for 700/900's but the non-turbo LH2.2 engines are pretty much the same on either model. only significant difference is, the 240 does not have the 'radio suppression relay', and what relays and such it does have are generally in different places. but the basic engine stuff all works the same... Ignore anything 'regina' specific too, as thats an alternate EFI used on some 7xx/9xx cars (and possibly later 240s)
 
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Old 08-11-2011, 04:39 PM
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Mine starts the 3rd time. I crank the car (about 5 seconds)-turn the key off, crank the car (again about 5 seconds)-turn the key off, crank the car-it starts??? Have you tried this? Just curious as to if the two cars problems are that similar. Mine has 175,XXX on it though.
 

Last edited by 740GLEWagon88; 08-11-2011 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:04 AM
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Default No Start Update

Hello Everyone, First of all, thanks for all the inputs...I really do appreciate the thoughts. Anyways, according to Volvo, where I finally had to break down and tow the vehicle to....they say that the "codes" refer to a Mass Air Sensor...but advised that it would be very expensive to replace if done by them. They said that they disconnected it and the engine started..hmmm I did the same thing several times but it never started for me. I am now wondering if the intermittent problem is temporarily gone and it starts now....only to return later. Any thoughts ? Volvo wanted $700-800 to replace but "sugggested" going online to find, which I did and found refurbished ones for $155 with a years warranty...

On another note....while in this NO START condition that was intermittent but later became a hard failure..... as it sat in the garage for 2 weeks...the power windows now do not work....dead. Fuse checked - OK..Now my thoughts are that somewhere the wiring bundles of the two totally different components come together and are damaged cause the intermittent start and now the windows...??? Any thoughts??
 
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Old 08-17-2011, 10:49 AM
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not sure if 84 is one of the 'biodegradable wiring' years.... they ended in 87 or 88. if thats the case, its a ungodly mess to sort out, new harnesses are very expensive, and trying to make your own is a huge job.
 
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:22 PM
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Jetswede,

First, Thank you for the dealer update and your advice.

Out of curiosity I disconnected my mass air sensor. The car didn't start on the first crank. It did start on the second. It would usually start on the 3rd attempt for me but when I was looking to purchase the car the PO said it would start on the second attempt. Also, the last time I tried starting it it took 4 attempts. The MAS does not sound like the problem I am having.

I also know it was running bad without the connection as I plugged it in and it settled to a decent idle.

I am not able to have the codes read as I need to get the car Pa. inspected so right now I can't drive it. It is scheduled to be inspected on Friday (and I HOPE it passes with out breaking the bank).

I will keep you informed thru this thread.


 
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:50 AM
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Hi 740GLEWagon88,

Yeah the dealer said that the MAS can give the wrong signal and tell the computer irronious information that will make the engine not start. Once disconnected, it will run rich or lean and irratic since the computer has not information to adjust the fuel/air mixture.....sounds good to me...

Volvo wanted 800+ for the work and i found one for 155...so replacing it next week when i get it.....You may want to check at a junkyard or
Car-parts.com and find a used one that is affordable....I found my rebuilt one at carpartswarehouse.com

good luck,

Jetswede
 
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:14 PM
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HELP ! Back again , replaced the sparkplug wires, rotor, distributor cap, coils and fuel pump relays and still not starting....towed to Volvo dealer....they said Mass Air Sensor. OK found refurbished for 155 bucks in Calif. Installed and started.....put it in drive and it died....didn't want to start again....cranks and cranks....about to trade it in on a new Kia.....LMAO....Please help me...any ideas????????????
 
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:18 PM
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Jetswede,
Sorry to hear your car seems to be back to square one. At present I have no advice to offer other than to check some of the newer (and older) threads about fuel. Is it getting too much or none at all? Do you have spark? I am a relative newbie here myself. I have owned my two Volvo's less than six months on the 740 and less than a month for the 240 which I have not been able to drive til today.
My 240 has been starting the first time I crank it??? (knock on wood). I did not replace any parts or work on the car to get it to do that. I had to do some body work to get it Pa. inspected. It took me about a week to finish (I only worked on it part time) and when I tried to start it after the week of sitting it started first crank (I'm not complaining). I am now able to drive the car legally (it passed inspection) and I can see how it acts/runs.
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 10:43 AM
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Default Problem Solved .... we hope

Hey Guys and Gals,

I just wanted to give you an update: After replacing the Coil, the spark plug wires, the rotor, the distributor cap and the fuel pump relays....my intermittent start problem returned....I had initially had not had any back -up lights and found no power to the switch so routed another wire to the switch and problem solved for the lights....anyways, would not start again do towed it to Volvo in Danbury, CT. Told them what I had done and about the back-up lights and start problems. They said it was the MAS because it started when they disconnected it...well never started when I did that....ok...it ran and i drove it home and ordered a MAS online...$155....no real biggy. Installed it and it started right up and ran for 3 -4 mins...I put it in Drive and it died , to never start again....
Towed back to Volvo...for another $125 DIAGNOIS FEE they came back with NO spark, No fuel, No pulse, no power to the Fuel relays...so they replaced the #12 fuse that they found a crack in....everything worked !
It checked good when I checked them...let's see how long this lasts....

I went to read what was on that fuse...guess what was on it....BACK-UP LIGHTS, POWER WINDOWS....But nothing relating to the ignition, fuel system.....at least not listed....DOES ANYONE HAVE A WIRING DIAGRAM SO I CAN FIND OUT WHAT ELSE IS ON THAT CIRCUIT???? (1983 244GL)

Looking forward to anyone replies !

Thanks for all the previous help.....
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 11:24 AM
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I don't have your diagram, but you could check voltages at all the ends of the harness and peel back the plastic covers of the wiring (especially across the block) if the fuse blows again. Also, I just had this issue, but the fuses are most likely old and corroded (you can hardly see it). I had a perfectly good fuse for my dash clock/overhead lights, but they werent working because the contacts were corroded.
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 02:01 PM
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I recommend always replacing all fuses on a 20 year old car with new brass or copper ones. avoid the tin/aluminum fuses.
 
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