I thought you said you had a 1984 ? 1983 and 1984 are LH II (2.0 or 2.1). 1985-1988 are LH 2.2. 1989+ are LH 2.4

 

well, typically if some wires are bad, they all are suspect. I think there's 3 separate harnesses under the hood, one for most of the engine and fuel injection which is what I was thinking of, one for the ignition (this one is pretty simple and I think if mine was failing, I'd just replace the wires myself), and the engine-dashboard harness which sounds like the one that was replaced on yours, this has the headlight wiring, horns, relays and a bunch of the dash switches and fuse panel wiring.

 

Yes an 84. So 2.0 or 2.1.I just spoke with a friend it was the dash. I had a mech that was certified by Chey did some work but he opened his own shop on the othe side of town. I am sure its the senosor but I am a little worried about the plug on top of the unit. I will be attempting to get the MAF in the morning at a part out place. My fingers are crossed..lol! I have to have this done by Friday when I go back to work and my cercumstances are a bit off right now, lol. Your a gem for all your help

 

again, the MAF you want is ONLY available on a 1983/1984 car. its BOSCH part number is 0 280 212 002 which shoudl be on the top of the unit.

its the 2nd one on this page
How can I tell which version of Bosch LH Fuel Injection is on my Volvo 240?

 

I am going to go ck

 

Omgosh, its the same part#. It was kind of hard to see.
So that means its an aftermarket part?

 

no, Bosch made Volvo's fuel injection systems.

 

ok good to know this is interesting. I am going to call IPD and ck out this place where there might be this unit.
For some reason I was able to see the wire connection to the unit much better now with a flash light then in the day light. It seems to look ok just a tad bit of what looks to be the greenish white corrosion. I have the connector silicon stuff to put on with I do get the part. Hopefully parted out.
Is there anything I should be looking if I am able to get it parted out?

 

um, unplug the connector, loosen the two clamps on the air hoses and it should come right out.

i have had good luck using fresh clean soft pink pencil erasers to clean gold contact connectors, at least when you can get at them.

audiophile places have this oil called 'DeOxit' which they use on electronic connections, that would be suitable for this. regular silicone dialectric grease might do more harm than good.

 

Thank you Mr.Pierce I will let you know how my adventure goes lol! This should be fun..lol!

 

No luck with finding the MAF in another Volvo wrong part# wrong year. So I took mine off and I sprayed with CRC. There was a rounded piece of aluminum the MAF unit itself. As if maybe a part of the screen had been circulating in the unit. Oddly The wire sensors themself look really good.How long should I let the MAF dry?

 

Update:It was a very easy process but Cleaning didnt work. But now I do know I can do it. I called a couple places and they insisted the an 84 Volvo 240D was a 2.3. That I was wrong. Whatever. And with the Holiday weekend... Im not looking at getting the part until at least next week BUT the information you gave me was TOTAL GOLD AND I have not given up, its just a little minor set back. I have to find the BOSCH part, at not "choking me out" price...it'll happen..(ihope)
Hope you have a great New Years!

 

there was a used one for $59 on ebay. caveat emptor.

what *I* would try and do is find someone local to you who has a 83 or 84, and swap them. if the problem migrates to their car and yours works, you know whats wrong! (swap them back, of COURSE!) and get a new one knowing that will fix it.

there really is no car called a Volvo 240D. There's a Mercedes Benz 240D, thats a diesel small engine version of the 300D from the 1980s.

up to about 1982, 240's were labeled as 242 (2-door), 244 (4-door) or 245 (5-door wagon). In 83, they switched the trunk logo to just say 240. Trim levels were L (europe only), DL, GL, GLE, GLT, GT, and Turbo (later ones were phased out from the 240 lineup early on). by the mid 80s, only the DL and GL models were sold in the US.

I wonder if a previous owner swapped the logo for laughs. I've seen stranger things.

 

Ooooh jeeeeez...lol! The kaos LOL! But check this VOLVO Parts and Accessoires. VOLVO Parts for VOLVO repair and VOLVO Performance upgrade! www.VLVworld.com sells New and Used VOLVO parts for 240, 850, 740, 760, 940, S70, V70, S40, V40, S80, 140, 122, 164 and More I think this website is pretty cool!
I wouldnt be surprised if someone did something silly like that wtih changing the 240.
I saw the ebay MAF you posted, cool!!!
I just might be on that in the morning! Im waiting to hear from a shop in Pasadena (I think) hopfully overnight it.
And... I do not know anyone with a car like mine, but that switching them out is an awsome idea!
So glad I found this site!

 

om my gosh! I think I was/my reply to you was spammed of some kind. That sucks sorry. I didnt put all that stuff.

 

Hello! New Volvo owner in the house. I just inherited a 1988 240 DL. Sedan. Its in amazing condition. 130,000 original miles. problem is I need to find a good mechanic that actually knows how to work on a pre-computer vehicle. The mechanic that I just took it back from said that the compression on this car should be at 120. And mine is at 65. The big problem, other than needing a tune up, is that it idles low and rough until it warms . It doesn't leak any fluids. The mechanic said he thinks that one of the cylinders are bad and needs 3000 dollars of work. I think he just doesn't have a clue how to work on a car older than 10 years.

Help Please!

 

sven, please start a NEW thread with a new car with new problems.

and... whats the question here? we can't suggest a mechanic unless A) you say where we are and B) someone here is in the same area.

if one of your cylinders' compression is 65 psi, yes, you have a serious engine problem, and the best fix is probably finding another engine in a junkyard and swapping it. if you pay a mechanic to do this, it likely will cost several $1000.

a tuneup on a volvo is little more than an oil change, new spark plugs and a thorough inspection. you replace the spark plug wires, distributor rotor and cap, only if they need it. but if the compression is that bad in one cylinder, there's no point, the motor is shot.

 

Update: Cant get part until next week. Let you know how it goes hope your New Years is good

 

Have you gone to any of the local junk yards to see if you cannot find this part? Don't you have a self service/u pick it u pull it type of junk yard in your area? I would think Volvo 240's would be extremely plentiful in junk yards since California was one of the two meccas for Volvo 240's(the other is Ithaca NY) folks in CA owned them as status symbols(for the environmental lovers and the folks that liked simplistic cars and folks that taught) until the hybrid cars came out.

In my area there are 2 self service junk yards and Volvos are plentiful. There was a nice 1984 in the one yard that I got a few inside parts from it.

I thought you could measure the voltage in the sensor to see if it was in spec? Or can you not do this with the Volvo sensors? I had a Dodge POS many years ago and it had a bad MAF sensor. I took a volt meter and checked it. Specs said it should have .5 volts going to to it when engine was cold and 5 volts when engine was warmed up but my MAF had 5 volts at cold and that was tripping up the computer.

Good luck

 

Found out my car is a 244 DL with a 2.3. (evn though it says 240D) @Journeyforce
Would you beleive that there arnt. Ihave found maybe 10 between the two pick a parts.And they arent the ones in the 80's. So I guess thats a good thing?
The ones llisted here for sale are going for on an average of $1500-$2800.
But...We ran into a small problem when changing out the old fuel pressure regulator plug/fuse. When it was pulled out the plastic broke and hit the metal harness and grounded the plug. You can smell the burnt in side the pastic casing. ( and no the battery was not disconnected at that freak moment, up until then it was) There are two plugs my car says the top one is for fuel pressure regulator and the other is for the over drive OR the fuel pump..According to the sources I have read and via the part places this is true also.
One is like $15 and the other is $100.But when I bought the 100 part and matched to the $15 part it was the SAME PART NUMBERon the box and the amps are 30. WHAT THE?
Any way..One should have 5 prong and one should have 6 prongs. BOTH MINE HAVE 5. Just for the sake of looking we went to pick a part and got on off of a new model (5prong) and it works as far as I can hear the fuel pump work but my car will still not turn over.
SO I AM GETTING QUITE THE EDUCATION ON THIS. I think I need to get my hands on getting a diognostic test of some kind to find out what all is going on.
Frustrated
Loking at a 1991 740 tomorrow