88 Volvo 240 Dl wont Start
#1
88 Volvo 240 Dl wont Start
Hi Everyone,
I'm lost as to why my Volvo won't start all of a sudden. On Tuesday it started fine. An hour later just turns over, wont kick in. Here's a couple things I checked for: Timing belt is attached because cam is turning, tried starting with MAF plugged and unplugged, spark coming from coil to distributor. When cranking it, I do smell gas going to the motor. I am unemployed and trying to go on job interviews. So funds are limited. Anybody got any ideas further? I'm basic at best on car diagnosis and repairs.
Thanks for reading,
Adam
I'm lost as to why my Volvo won't start all of a sudden. On Tuesday it started fine. An hour later just turns over, wont kick in. Here's a couple things I checked for: Timing belt is attached because cam is turning, tried starting with MAF plugged and unplugged, spark coming from coil to distributor. When cranking it, I do smell gas going to the motor. I am unemployed and trying to go on job interviews. So funds are limited. Anybody got any ideas further? I'm basic at best on car diagnosis and repairs.
Thanks for reading,
Adam
#3
-is the battery at the proper voltage/ charge? loose terminal connections? corrosion?
-pull the vacuum line off the front of the fuel pressure regulator (little silver can at the bottom of the fuel rail) is there gas in the line?
-check for damage, burning, scoring or dampness inside the distributor cap
-try to turn your distributor by hand; is it loose?
-do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key?
-pull the vacuum line off the front of the fuel pressure regulator (little silver can at the bottom of the fuel rail) is there gas in the line?
-check for damage, burning, scoring or dampness inside the distributor cap
-try to turn your distributor by hand; is it loose?
-do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key?
#4
#5
The main pump is located just ahead of the driver side rear wheel. There is a roughly triangular shaped carrier pan which holds the pump and filter. If the pump does not prime, it needs to be tested by getting a jumper wire with a clip at each end and jumpering the fuses on the left side of the driver footwell.
With the key off, Jjumper the left side of fuse 4 to the left side of fuse 6 (always has power) and both the in tank and main pump should run. Scroll down on this link to "pump diagnostics" he does the jumpering with a paper clip.
In the Tank - 240 Volvo Tank Pump and Sender
Oh, yeah, check your fuses first. A fuse can cause a no start if blown, but these also sometimes develop corrosion at the ends. Spinning the fuse in it's socket usually at least temporarily can reduce this corrosion enough to work. If the pump does not run, there could be a wiring problem, or
perhaps the pump is bad. If the pump runs when jumpered, it is possible the fuel pump relay is bad.
This is a lot of info. Write down each point on a piece of paper and just go through one by one. Make a note of each result.
Do not concern yourself with the in- tank pump for now, a bad in- tank pump is unlikely to cause a no- start.
Last edited by fochs; 01-15-2015 at 06:59 PM.
#6
fochs,
Thanks a lot. I jumped the fuse this morning and the primer pump kicked in and was running. I tried it a couple times and it kicked on both times. I immediately turned the key on and had silence. So, I'm leaning towards the relay? Could that start the vehicle then an hour later failed? Looking at my Haynes manual diagram, it looks like the relay in under the dash? Would that be correct?
Thanks a lot. I jumped the fuse this morning and the primer pump kicked in and was running. I tried it a couple times and it kicked on both times. I immediately turned the key on and had silence. So, I'm leaning towards the relay? Could that start the vehicle then an hour later failed? Looking at my Haynes manual diagram, it looks like the relay in under the dash? Would that be correct?
#7
to add more to the story: both the primer and in tank pumps are running. But seems only if I jump fuse 4 to 6. I was told I could jump fuse 4 and 6 at the same time I was trying to start it and that would bypass the fuel relay... No start. I checked the distributor cap inside, looks great. I did check the pressure regulator vacuum line ( silver can on end of fuel rail, located right above distributor cap) line is dry! The battery was replaced the day before the issue occurred. Ironically enough, this problem didn't present itself until I purchased a new battery? I also check the spark plug closest to the front of the car and it was wet with fuel. I am getting spark from the coil. to the distributor? Im lost here
Last edited by Aredd95; 01-17-2015 at 10:21 AM. Reason: added content
#8
Spray some starting fluid in the intake and try to start it. If it fires up it's a gas issue. If not, ignition. Pretty reliable old school method.
No point checking the FPR line, that won't tell you anything.
Is your new battery OK? Better measure the voltage, it may not be holding charge.
No point checking the FPR line, that won't tell you anything.
Is your new battery OK? Better measure the voltage, it may not be holding charge.
#9
On the fender, near the battery is a fuse holder for the fuel system ecm. Has that fuse been checked ? Is there power to the fuse holder,when checked with a test light ?
Pull a spark plug,and ground it to the engine block. Have someone crank the engine. Does the spark plug have spark ?
Just a couple of thoughts.
Pull a spark plug,and ground it to the engine block. Have someone crank the engine. Does the spark plug have spark ?
Just a couple of thoughts.
#11
I checked and am getting spark at the plug. when I tried to start it seemed as if fuel was dumping into the cylinder because it was spraying out the plug hole. I have been trying to start it with the assistance of my van via jumper cables to prevent killing the battery. so im getting fuel to the plug. ive got spark at the plug, but its not firing completely. im at a loss for ideas..
#12
-is the battery at the proper voltage/ charge? loose terminal connections? corrosion?
-pull the vacuum line off the front of the fuel pressure regulator (little silver can at the bottom of the fuel rail) is there gas in the line?
-check for damage, burning, scoring or dampness inside the distributor cap
-try to turn your distributor by hand; is it loose?
-do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key?
-pull the vacuum line off the front of the fuel pressure regulator (little silver can at the bottom of the fuel rail) is there gas in the line?
-check for damage, burning, scoring or dampness inside the distributor cap
-try to turn your distributor by hand; is it loose?
-do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key?
should be, its brand new. Also, I've been using my van to jump to save the battery
-pull the vacuum line off the front of the fuel pressure regulator (little silver can at the bottom of the fuel rail) is there gas in the line?
pulled out the vacuum line, its dry!
-check for damage, burning, scoring or dampness inside the distributor cap
nothing detected - nice and clean inside
-try to turn your distributor by hand; is it loose? - no. tight
-do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key?
yes, verified by jumping 4 to 6 fuse. Can hear both pumps running
-removed first spark plug and plug is wet, grounded plug against block getting spark, fuel spraying out plug hole
#13
-removed first spark plug and plug is wet, grounded plug against block getting spark, fuel spraying out plug hole[/QUOTE]
Sounds super dangerous
Check the 25A blade fuse on the fender comes from battery + terminal; in this holder:
Volvo Fuse Holder 25 Amp - 240 120789 1323312 1323312
Here is a difficult- to- read flowchart:
Board Message
Sounds super dangerous
Check the 25A blade fuse on the fender comes from battery + terminal; in this holder:
Volvo Fuse Holder 25 Amp - 240 120789 1323312 1323312
Here is a difficult- to- read flowchart:
Board Message
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