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Hi Folks, I just pulled my oil separator of my new 89 and it's pretty yukky. I have a new one on order and a new o-ring seal, question is, since there are two orifices at the bottom into the pan, in addition to the o-ring, it looks like there is a flat wafer like seal on the other protrusion but I cant find anything online about that wafer.
Can someone elucidate for me the requirements for the replacement of the separator?
I think you are talking about the drain return pipe. Don't mess it up. It has flat flange at the top (resting on engine block) and is attached to the oil pump. If it were needed to be replaced or repositioned the oil pan would need to be removed.
Yep. that would be it, since I was working by braille I could not really tell if there was some form of seal on top of the return pipe. I got a little view of it down under the intake manifold but couldn't tell for sure.
I thought that perhaps the separator drain fit into the drain pipe and would limit the possibility of an oil leak there but I questioned that because its a Volvo and they always seemed to have everything covered to an overkill.
I appreciate the clarification and how this helps the next person with that ever needing flame trap/oil separator replacement need.
I'm waiting on the separator and o-ring now to get this back together and then replace valve cover gasket and cam plug. Been a long time since I worked on a Volvo, and after rebuilding my 1963 Dodge Dart convertible. its a welcome change for working on something smaller.
Hey man thanks a lot. Always easier to see when "Stuff" aint in the way!
I am waiting for my service manual so wsa wondering what are the two sensors under the manifold, looks like the one on the right is a temp sensor? What about the one out of sight on the left?
Also looks like a gear inside the right hole, almost like a distributor drive but I know that cant be. Its been so many decades since Ive torn into and rebuild one of the Volvo engines... probably the 70s or early 80s. Man Im getting old.
Cheers.
there's a antiknock sensor, which is flat and has the connector on the side, and two temp sensors, one has 4 pins and goes to both the ECU (fuel injection) and ICU (ignition), the other has 1 or 2 pins (I forget) and goes to the temp gauge in the dashboard.
As a follow up, the task ended up being much easler than I had thought it would be to accomplish. Didnt have to remove the intake manifold, the separator came out around the firewall side, I did find that the wiring harnesses were a bit stiff and had to be dealt with a bit. I certainly can see why putting in an alternative path for the flame trap is a good idea though.
Thanks for all the help yall.