Hello my 245 has been giving me trouble recently.
I've been having electrical issues with my car. The alternator will not charge the battery. I put in a new batter and a new alternator voltage regulator etc..

I changed all the fuses in the front driver's side as well as the 25 amp one near the battery.

When I put a voltage meter on to the battery it reads 11.85
it starts the car but dies shortly after.
When I put the meter on the thicker wire on the alternator it gives me the same reading as the battery.
When I have the key on and put it on the exciter wire the meter reads only 1.25

My alt light turns on and off when starting and turning off the vehicle.
I'm assuming it's the exciter wire but not sure where to start with it.

 

Also I like to add I cleaned all the grounds and replaced the ground wire on the alternator

 

what is the meter reading across the battery posts at idle?

 

The small red wire on the alternator - goes directly to the bulb in the dash - if you unplug and ground the small red wire, the alternator warning light comes on -

Alternator will charge if all three wires are connected properly. If not - the alternator is bad.

25a fuse near the battery is for the fuel injection -

 

11.3 with no load on it but using accessories quickly kills the battery

 

11.3 is a DEAD battery.

if the ALT/BATT light comes on with the ignition and goes off shortly after the engine starts, then the D+ circuit is working (said skinny wire at alternator)

you probably just need a new regulator/brush assembly, get a real Bosch one, they aren't expensive. find one at www.ipdusa.com or www.fcpeuro.com

 

I don't think I was clear enough in my OP the light doesn't turn off with the engine running. I was trying to say the ALT light works as in it turns on and off. It stays on as long as the vehicle's running.

'New' rebuilt alternator and new battery.

I had to reuse 1 piece off my original alternator because It didn't come with the new one I believe it's some sort of relay

I know the battery should be between 12.4-12.6v It was when I bought it but It's still starting at it's current state. (11.65v)

I think the battery would still charge if the alternator was getting excited. It is not getting the proper voltage at the exciter wire (1.25v) with key 'on' but not running.

 

ok, find the D+ terminal on the back of the alternator, thats the one with the small red wire. ignition off, it should be close to 0V relative to engine ground. ignition on but not running, it should read somewhere below battery voltage, could be as low as 7-9V, but might be 11V. engine running, it should be battery voltage.

if you disconnect that wire from the alternator and measure just the wire with the ignition on it should be basically battery voltage. if it is not, check the dashboard indicator bulb and connections.... if it is, check the alternator.

as I said, regulator brushes. $48 for a Bosch, cheaper for a Beru or other.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/saa...9-5-1197311213

 

[QUOTE=WagonDaddy;492622 the light doesn't turn off with the engine running. .[/QUOTE]

You have a bad alternator - whether it's "new" or not. The light is staying on when the car is running because the voltage in the battery is higher than the voltage coming out of the alternator - Simply replace the alternator with one that works and your problem will be solved. The battery should recharge but may be permanently damaged - if new it should have a warranty.

 

shut car off, connect battery to a good battery charger, charge overnight until its complete.

disconnect charger, wait at least an hour, measure voltage at battery. note ambient/battery temperature if its extreme (standard voltages are measured at like 60-80F)

at 60-80F, a fully charged battery should be around 12.6 volts. 12.1 volts is 50% discharged, anything near 11V is completely flat.

start engine, let it run a minute or so to get happy, measure volatage, it should be at least a full volt higher than the first measurement, and ideally 13.8-14.4V

if you have D+ voltage per my previous tests, and you don't see that 1.2V+ boost after starting the eengine, you need a regulator or a new alternator.
lotta crappy parts being sold, 'new' isn't always 'good'.

 

you're so right pierce, i went through 3 'rebuilt' alternators for my son's vw golf from autozone/advance before i got one that was finally good. the op could take it out
and have autozone or the like put it on one of their bench testers and see...

 

Okay thanks for the advice. I have the battery hooked up to a charger and will report back my findings