I have been hearing a clicking noise coming from the front end while making left turns at slow speeds.

I did some research and I was almost positive that it was the CV joint until I was told that my car had front "mini" drive shafts and that it was probably a U joint. Well I was under the car today and discovered that my car is rear wheel drive so throw that out of the window too.

I was looking at the drive shaft and twisting it and it seems pretty solid. It did make a little bit of a noise but I cant tell if it could be causing the steady clicking noise that I am getting.

Honestly I have always wanted to be a mechanic and recently I have been gathering some tools, ramps, jack stands etc... Well it looks like this could be the perfect car for me. I found a rust spot in the floor pan right under my feet. I pushed on it just a little bit and I felt the carpet...

One other thing, the brakes are squeaking. I checked the pads on all four tires and there is plenty of meat left on them. The rotors are pretty groovy especially in the back so I suspect that this is the cause of my squeak.

So to sum up my project list:

1)Rust in the floor pan. I think I am going to try to cut it out and rivet a piece of sheet metal there. Its at a curve so this is going to be a challenge.

2)Squeaky brakes. I think I need new rotors

3)Clicking noise from the front end while making slow left turns

4) Slow starts possible a fuel pump or fuel regulator. Some of you might remember my other thread.

Well thats me for the moment. Any advice for an aspiring hobby fixer, is more then welcome. Thanks for reading my post.

 

Oh yeah one other thing: I get a crunching noise when I put the transmission into reverse (manual). Its not a huge deal because I usually put it in reverse before starting the car to avoid it. I plan on doing a transmission fluid change soon. I have been trying to put it in first gear before reverse. I read that it helps somewhere but it is still crunching.

 

Don't know what kind of crunching noise it is making but I would check out the tranny and motor mounts to make sure that they aren't shot. For the tranny mount, crawl under and give the tailshaft of the tranny a good push-pull to see if it shifts at all. For the motor mounts, check for bulging, rot, etc.

Get a buddy to fire up the engine and with the hood open, have your buddy put the car in reverse to see if the engine shifts at all. Using this method, you could also locate the general are from which the crunching sounds originate.

Good luck

 

The reverse crunch come from a non-synchronized reverse gear. The dogs that lock into gear are spinning so they crunch if they are moving. Solution: when coming to a stop to go to reverse, completely stop. When backing out of the driveway, push the clutch in and wait about 3 seconds. The transmission will slow down a lot and let you snap it into gear.

When ever you find rust on a car, be prepared to find more. When you fix it, you must rust proof it too. I suggest "Rust Zero." It's like POR15 but a bit easier to use. I got it at Jones Paint and Glass. Welding would be a better option, but you must disconnect all the computers that drive the car if you are electrically welding. You'll probably want some seam sealer stuff too. Cars are mostly spot welded together and then the crack are sealed with seam sealer. If you rivet, be sure to seal.
Here's my thread on fixing rust in my car: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...-=-rust-51295/

Clicky wheels: all I can thin of is jacking the front end up (put it on jack stands) and recreate the scenario.Also look for looseness in the wheel bearing, suspension and steering joints and anything else that looks suspicious.

 

there are no front drive shafts at ALL on a 740, its a RWD car. only U joints are on the main drive shaft that connects the transmission to the differential, as the rear suspension is 'live axle'.

clicking sounds from the front end on sharp turns are likely caused by worn steering tie rods, or bushings. there's one front bushing in particular that connects the main lower control arm to a rearwards radius arm which wears out and causes sloppy steering, and is fairly easy to replace.

 

Thank you for the advice.

I know what you mean by giving it some time before putting it into reverse. Sadly this is not the case. I did try holding the clutch in for even thirty seconds and I still get the crunch going into reverse.

About the rust, I did find a little bit more in the same area. Its not that bad but like you said, there could be more. Thanks for the link.

As for the click, this makes sense too. I will try this out.

The tie rods look old but they seem to be in okay shape. Now the bushings are not in good shape. You are most likely right. If I do replace the bushings, do i need to get an alignment?

Thanks everyone for the information. I do appreciate it even though I have not had a chance to get under the care yet. Charter season is here and Im very busy with work. Everything seems to be the same really. The click is not getting worse, the crunch is still there (so I try to put in reverse before starting the engine), the rust hole is not going away and the brakes are squeaking (at least I think its the brakes. Im not so sure anymore).

Thanks again for the advice. I will keep you all updated.

 

front end alignment on a 240/740/940 can be done with a tape measure. the only adjustment is toe-in.

jack the front of the car up and put it on stands. center the steering. spin each front wheel and lay down a chalk line on the tread somewhere near the middle of the tire, with the chalk braced against something immobile.

measure the distance between those chalk lines at the front of the two tires, and at the back of the two tires.

the front edge of the tires should be about 1/8th inch closer together than the back edges.

if they need adjustment, find an open end wrench (or use a small crescent) that fits on the flats on the shaft of the tie rod, and loosen the lock nuts without turning said shaft. now turn both shafts either in or out a quarter turn and repeat the measurement until you're happy. now tighten the lock nuts again without turning the shaft, and drive the car, make sure it goes straight on level ground when the wheel is centered. if the wheel isn't centered when its going straight, adjust both sides the same amount in opposite directions so the wheel does end up straight (a bit of thinking about it and it should come clear which way to turn...)

if the car feels like it wants to wander around the road, increase the toe-in a bit. if it fights going into a turn and pulls hard to go straight, decrease the toe-in a bit.