You could get a noid light and find out real quick if the injectors are firing. Call up a local auto parts store. It just flashes when a power goes to the injector. I would start there.

 

I did verify the injectors were working a few days ago.

Yesterday I found some fittings I needed for a fuel pressure test and the results were only 7-10 PSI at the rail!

I checked the in tank pump pressure [by sight/volume since I didn't have a larger adapter to test] right before the inline/under car pump and it was strong. The pressure after the inline/under car pump was much weaker.

So, I went and got another new inline/under car fuel pump [since I just installed the second new in tank pump] and bingo, it started on its own and fuel pressure was now real good.

I believe the inline/under car pump was defective all along [although it did run I don't think it was pumping] which took out the in tank pump by building up pressure/heat.

Anywho, it starts but seemed a little notchy so I pulled the fuel rail. The injectors were nasty looking, just a little spray from 2, the others just dripped.

New/reman fuel injectors on the way.

What an ordeal! I truly believe there was a Hall sensor issue as well as a fuel pump[s] issues.

Hopefully the reman injectors will bring it back to its former glory

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Well done! You persevered!!

 

I don't know if that's the right word or not.

Once I get it up and running/driving I'll take and post some photos.

Something about a black on black wagon

I had a custom bumper sticker made up but it was senseless to put it on yet [you'll understand].

Thanks for the help! If you hadn't confirmed the ECU I have doesn't turn on the fuel pump for a few seconds when in key is in the ON position, it may have ended much differently.

 

Well...........

I got the new injectors installed and it seemed better but after about 1 minute idling, it started to surge up and down [only on park ~ if I put in gear with the e-brake on it didn't do it]. I loosened and turned the distributor and got it to stop but it idled a bit high. The old dizzy was tightened at full left [pass side] so I tightened the replacement at the same spot. Full right made it stop surging and produced an even, albeit high idle.

I decided to take it down the road for the heck of it and sure enough........ there was no boost from the turbo. The turbo gauge went to just before straight up and stopped.

I got back, checked around the turbo and found a vacuum port wide open on the top/front [BOV?] and then saw a vacuum line coming from the intake just dangling in the area so I connected it there, still no turbo boost.

I'm going to clean the IAC control tomorrow because I'm sure its gummed up, maybe that will help the surging idle.

I know the turbo worked prior to the previous owner parking it soooo....??

I couldn't find much info about the turbo vacuum lines online but I noticed there's another one below the one I reconnected as well as a wastegate rod that has a reputation of falling off.

Also, it sure is difficult to start. It takes 3-4 10 second crank cycles to start. Once started it will restart easier if not too long after. Sure seems like a anti drainback valve problem on one of the fuel pumps [please, not another one!]

 

geez, set your timing with a timing light, not by twisting the distributor around randomly.

 

LOL! I intend to. It was just a test to see if it would stop or change the surging. My timing light is in a different state at the moment.

That's all you got? Nothing on the other issues?

It'll be a couple days until I get a chance to progress so I'm hunting for and reading all I can in preperation.

 

disconnect the air pipe from the airbox to the turbo and stick your finger in there and verify the impeller spins freely and smoothly

check ALL the vacuum lines for condition. a hairline crack on the wrong one can cause all kinda side effects. is this thing throwing any OBD codes? oh wait, an 89 turbo might not have OBD, I forget.

 

Okay, set the timing today with my timing light and it was within 2% of dead on. I removed and cleaned the IAC valve thoroughly as well as the throttle body, although the were clean IMO, and reinstalled. I pulled all the turbo piping to check for cracks, tears, etc... The elbow from the MAF to the turbo inlet is a bit rough on the bottom at the turbo so I am going to order a new one, the others look/feel fine.

When I went to spin the turbo spline it was stuck. I put my socket and ratchet on the nut and it moved with a little force [maybe 2ft lbs]. I got my oil can and pumped some oil in there as well as some penatrating oil and continued rotating in until it freed up until I could spin it with my finger. I then gave it another good oil soak and let it sit while I did some other stuff then I got my air compressor out and spun it for 5 minutes with my air ratchet. It freed up nicely so I put it all back together.

It idles right now [cleaning the IAC and throttle body must have helped] and the turbo spooled up a little noisy [very light screeching almost] at first. I drove it up and down the road giving it only low boost until it sounded normal then short higher boosts and it seems fine.

I'll have to keep an ear on it but I think it'll be okay ??

So, the only issue remaining is that it takes a while to start after it sits. I'm thinking one of the fuel pumps [in tank?] has a bad or sticky anti drainback valve.

 

Running strong! I drove it today and it did well. The turbo has quieted down and boosts strong.

I still have the hard start which I suspect is a bad fuel pump anti drainback valve?

What temp does your car run at? This one goes to 1/2 [straight up] on the temp gauge and stays there. Is that normal operating temp?

As promised, here's some photos of my wagon. I just got it all cleaned up and waxed today







and the custom bumper sticker I had made up, which until I got it to this point, wasn't true



THANKS for the help!

 

congrats on getting it going! sharp looking black wagon!

yeah, TDC on the water gauge means its at some semblance of operating temp and not on the verge of boiling over.

there's an annoying little circuit board on the back oft eh instrument panel called a 'compensator' or something. its function is to keep that needle right smack in the middle if its anywhere in range. I think they put this on there to stop people from neuroses about the needle running high or lower than the tick in the middle under the range of normal conditions.

me, I'd like to remove that circuit so I can actually see what the temperature is. but thats just me.

 

THANKS!

I bought the car because the body is immaculate. There's a small ding in the drivers side fender and at some point I believe a trick or treater may have thrown an egg at it because there's some discoloration/etching of the paint on the hood and down the fender as a result but both issues are minor.

I'm going to redo the drivers seat bottom due to some wear but the rest of the interior [prev owner installed a new headliner a few years back] looks good. I don't really like the wheels, I think some factory turbo wheels would suit better.

It really does run and drive well [fingers crossed] and I've only got about $700 in it total

A '96 850 turbo wagon just came up for sale today locally that I hope to buy tomorrow Its cheap and the seller thinks it needs a new motor because its blowing gray smoke. Probably a clogged up PCV system/trap [I did that job on my prev 850 turbo] or at most turbo seals. My wife needs to get rid of [or park in the garage for awhile] her Range Rover before it eats us up in gas [and repairs] and drive a Volvo.

I like the RWD car better, that's comparing my old 740 turbo wagon and my last 850 turbo wagon but the 850 styling is more up to date.

I guess my temp gauge is correct then. It concerned me that it gets up to 1/2 pretty quickly but it just stays there and nothing seems hot. Not sure I like that push in auxiliary fan sensor on the radiator. Seems to me that thing could pop out easily.

 

hmmm. on our 87 240, the parts drawings show a seperate temperature compensator circuit plugged into the instrument panel to 'regulate' the temp gauge to keep it centered... on the 740, i don't see this, so the function must be built into the instrument panel.

i may have to get my hands on a spare 740 panel and see if I can't figure out how to modify it to be a linear temp gauge. shouldnt take more than cutting a wire or two, and maybe adding a resistor. I'd want it set so 'normal' highway temps are about 12 oclock, and overheating is pegged.