91 240, crank pully bolt just fell out
#1
91 240, crank pully bolt just fell out
Ok sorry for the novel guys but this just blew my mind, and could use all the hell I can get!
Ok guys while my 850 wagon is down for repairs I have been driving my 91 240 wagon everyday, with up until yesterday no real issues... The car only has around 140k miles on it and was garage kept for the past 9 years until I got it from my neighbor 2 years ago. Anyway I had been running around town all morning in it with no problems.. As I sat in the drive thru line at the bank it started to get hotter than normal but as soon as I pulled off it went right back down and I went on my way to the auto parts store to pick up some other stuff well as I started the car up it was making a little noise almost sounded like the exhaust was rubbing on something but nothing like holy cow its about to fly apart... Well I said I'm alread pulling out in traffic I will check it when I get home (I live about 1 1/2miles away) well the noise stayed with me until I made the left turn onto the road to my house which at that time all the dash lights came on, and I lost power steering... But the noise was gone I drove it the 1/2 mile to the house where I popped my hood to check things out, I saw that the crank pully was just being held on by the belts...now at this time I'm thinking the bolt sheered off in the crank or something came apart but what do I see laying down in the splash pan? The crank pully bolt, no damage no weird marks it looks as if it just fell out. So just a few minutes ago I attempted to put the bolt back in but its seems as if the pully won't go on quite right.. After starting the bolt and getting it tightend down as much as I could without the engine spinning over it looks as if the belts are lined up just right and the pully need to sit farther back on the crank... I looked around some on the forums and I keep reading about a little nub on the pully that was used instead of a key way or something like that. But I don't see anyhting on my pully just 2 small notches 1 on the crank and 1 on the pully... When the bolt fell out could I have lost another part that went somewhere else besides the belly pan or did I break something on the pully and need to replace it? Also if anyone has pictures of the backside of a good crank pully I would love to see what its supposed to look like
Ok guys while my 850 wagon is down for repairs I have been driving my 91 240 wagon everyday, with up until yesterday no real issues... The car only has around 140k miles on it and was garage kept for the past 9 years until I got it from my neighbor 2 years ago. Anyway I had been running around town all morning in it with no problems.. As I sat in the drive thru line at the bank it started to get hotter than normal but as soon as I pulled off it went right back down and I went on my way to the auto parts store to pick up some other stuff well as I started the car up it was making a little noise almost sounded like the exhaust was rubbing on something but nothing like holy cow its about to fly apart... Well I said I'm alread pulling out in traffic I will check it when I get home (I live about 1 1/2miles away) well the noise stayed with me until I made the left turn onto the road to my house which at that time all the dash lights came on, and I lost power steering... But the noise was gone I drove it the 1/2 mile to the house where I popped my hood to check things out, I saw that the crank pully was just being held on by the belts...now at this time I'm thinking the bolt sheered off in the crank or something came apart but what do I see laying down in the splash pan? The crank pully bolt, no damage no weird marks it looks as if it just fell out. So just a few minutes ago I attempted to put the bolt back in but its seems as if the pully won't go on quite right.. After starting the bolt and getting it tightend down as much as I could without the engine spinning over it looks as if the belts are lined up just right and the pully need to sit farther back on the crank... I looked around some on the forums and I keep reading about a little nub on the pully that was used instead of a key way or something like that. But I don't see anyhting on my pully just 2 small notches 1 on the crank and 1 on the pully... When the bolt fell out could I have lost another part that went somewhere else besides the belly pan or did I break something on the pully and need to replace it? Also if anyone has pictures of the backside of a good crank pully I would love to see what its supposed to look like
#2
There is a little nub on the cranshaft, I think it's officially called a "key"?
On the back of the pulley is the female mate to it. The pulley needs to sit all the way on that nub. It's only a notch, maybe 1/8" at most.
First, it is possible that when the bolt came out and the pulley was loose it sheered off that nub (I had that happen on a cam shaft), in which case, need a new crankshaft.
Second, as long as the nub is still there and not damaged, you'll need to pop the timing belt off to line it all back up properly. (make sure all the timing marks are reset before you put it back on)
You could try to wiggle it around to get it on the nub, but going to be hard to do with belts on, I wouldn't risk it.
At the very least, with the pulley off you can take off the bottom timing belt cover (not possible with pulley on) and see what is going on with the nub part, the timing belt may have slipped as well as there usually two belt guides, if the pulley slips they can too.
Either way, if the crankshaft nub is still there and the back of the pulley isn't damaged, just redo the timing belt and make sure that bolt will torque properly. The timing belt is a lot easier than it looks, if I can do it, anyone can lol
On the back of the pulley is the female mate to it. The pulley needs to sit all the way on that nub. It's only a notch, maybe 1/8" at most.
First, it is possible that when the bolt came out and the pulley was loose it sheered off that nub (I had that happen on a cam shaft), in which case, need a new crankshaft.
Second, as long as the nub is still there and not damaged, you'll need to pop the timing belt off to line it all back up properly. (make sure all the timing marks are reset before you put it back on)
You could try to wiggle it around to get it on the nub, but going to be hard to do with belts on, I wouldn't risk it.
At the very least, with the pulley off you can take off the bottom timing belt cover (not possible with pulley on) and see what is going on with the nub part, the timing belt may have slipped as well as there usually two belt guides, if the pulley slips they can too.
Either way, if the crankshaft nub is still there and the back of the pulley isn't damaged, just redo the timing belt and make sure that bolt will torque properly. The timing belt is a lot easier than it looks, if I can do it, anyone can lol
#4
harbor freight has this tool for 7 dollars that is basically an 1/8th thick by 12 inch long metal stick with a lip and an adjustable metal piece that clamps on the pulley and you tighten it in place...WORKS SO GOOD AND DAMN CHEAP TOO...THAT PARTICULAR BOLT TAKES A BIT OF FOOT/POUND TORQUE AND THIS TOOL ALLOWS YOU TO HOLD THE PULLEY IN PLACE IN ORDER TO TIGHTEN THE BOLT TO SPEC WITHOUT SPINNING THE PULLEY......IPDUSA.COM has a tool and FCPEURO.COM as well but you will need to order online...WOULD NOT HURT ADD SOME MEDIUM THREAD LOCK...(BLUE COLOR) ON THE BOLT.
#5
Just as a side note, IF the nub on the crankshaft ends up being sheared off, there is one alternative to getting a new crankshaft--that would be cutting a key. In essence, you'd take a dremel or some other high speed grinder, and cut a notch into the crankshaft (where the nub was) and put in a key. They key is a pretty decent piece of metal, so you may want to see about getting an actual key instead of just cutting out a piece of metal yourself.
If this isn't clear, let me try again. Right now (in theory) you should have a nub and a slot that it fits into. After this, you will have to slots, and another piece of metal that joins the two.
Now... this is not easy. And putting the final product together is a pain in the rear end. But it is an option aside from a new crankshaft.
Final note: I have done this before, but it was on a motorcycle.
If this isn't clear, let me try again. Right now (in theory) you should have a nub and a slot that it fits into. After this, you will have to slots, and another piece of metal that joins the two.
Now... this is not easy. And putting the final product together is a pain in the rear end. But it is an option aside from a new crankshaft.
Final note: I have done this before, but it was on a motorcycle.
#7
Ok, I see you saying there was a nub on the crankshaft but I seem to have 2 notches and it doesn't look like something sheered off.... Tried to take a picture not great bit the best i could get with my phone at the time.. You can kinda see where the crank on the left has a notch as well as a notch in the pulley
#8
crank pulley sprocket
The crankshaft pulley does not have a nub but a "notch"....the sprocket between the engine wall and the crank pulley has that nub that goes in the crank pulley....
a local junk yard should have this sprocket...just replace it....and if you do have a junk yard car, take a look at how the spacers/washers go in sequence or order, maybe someone put everything back together wrong at one point.....I know I did on when I started to tinker on my first Volvo
check the picture of the sprocket with the nub intact...
a local junk yard should have this sprocket...just replace it....and if you do have a junk yard car, take a look at how the spacers/washers go in sequence or order, maybe someone put everything back together wrong at one point.....I know I did on when I started to tinker on my first Volvo
check the picture of the sprocket with the nub intact...
#9
The crankshaft pulley does not have a nub but a "notch"....the sprocket between the engine wall and the crank pulley has that nub that goes in the crank pulley....
a local junk yard should have this sprocket...just replace it....and if you do have a junk yard car, take a look at how the spacers/washers go in sequence or order, maybe someone put everything back together wrong at one point.....I know I did on when I started to tinker on my first Volvo
check the picture of the sprocket with the nub intact...
a local junk yard should have this sprocket...just replace it....and if you do have a junk yard car, take a look at how the spacers/washers go in sequence or order, maybe someone put everything back together wrong at one point.....I know I did on when I started to tinker on my first Volvo
check the picture of the sprocket with the nub intact...
#10
according to vadis, from the engine side forward, there are these parts on the crank...
1) 3531184 - Locating Plate Rear
2) 1336927 (-1992) or 9135271 (1993-) - "Pulley" (looks like a gear in the picture, I'm guessing this is for the timing belt?)
3) 1357621 - Locating Plate Front
4) 9135194 - Oscillation damper (the alternator/etc belt pulleys)
5) 1336822 - 'washer' (flat conical thing)
6) 963319 - hexagon screw
1) 3531184 - Locating Plate Rear
2) 1336927 (-1992) or 9135271 (1993-) - "Pulley" (looks like a gear in the picture, I'm guessing this is for the timing belt?)
3) 1357621 - Locating Plate Front
4) 9135194 - Oscillation damper (the alternator/etc belt pulleys)
5) 1336822 - 'washer' (flat conical thing)
6) 963319 - hexagon screw
#11
fcpeuro.com sells it for 66.90 dollars....
here is the link:
Volvo Crankshaft Gear (240 740 760 780 940) - Genuine Volvo 1336927 | FCP Euro
here is the link:
Volvo Crankshaft Gear (240 740 760 780 940) - Genuine Volvo 1336927 | FCP Euro
#12
fcpeuro.com sells it for 66.90 dollars....
here is the link:
Volvo Crankshaft Gear (240 740 760 780 940) - Genuine Volvo 1336927 | FCP Euro
here is the link:
Volvo Crankshaft Gear (240 740 760 780 940) - Genuine Volvo 1336927 | FCP Euro
#13
I did not check ipdusa.com but if you find it on a sitting Volvo at the shop...great...
and the tool from harborfreight is so cheap and worked great....at first it seems it does a poor job but you have to have room to grab it firmly and I took off the fan belt and cover...it works perfect though and the price is dirt cheap......
and the tool from harborfreight is so cheap and worked great....at first it seems it does a poor job but you have to have room to grab it firmly and I took off the fan belt and cover...it works perfect though and the price is dirt cheap......
Last edited by analogies; 05-12-2013 at 12:51 AM.
#14
#16
Holy crap, I just had this exact same thing happen to me on a nearly identical car: '90 240DL with 140k miles. Damn thing overheated, lost power steering and all my idiot lights came on. Luckily I was uphill from home and was able to coast most of the way back without cooking the engine.
Just as I was taking the last turn onto my street, I hear this noise out my window going DING-ALING-ALING-ALING-ALING and fades away. So I park at my house, run back to where I heard the noise, and what do I see sitting smack in the middle of the sidewalk? A bigass crank pulley bolt and bigass washer just waiting for me like it's my birthday.
I'm letting the bastard cool down right before I see how bad the damage is. Hope to hell nothing got sheared off. This car is just a clunker I got for a few hundred bucks and am hesitant to sink any money into it. May just ghetto rig it together with a tac weld.
*dodges a barrage of tomatoes*
Just as I was taking the last turn onto my street, I hear this noise out my window going DING-ALING-ALING-ALING-ALING and fades away. So I park at my house, run back to where I heard the noise, and what do I see sitting smack in the middle of the sidewalk? A bigass crank pulley bolt and bigass washer just waiting for me like it's my birthday.
I'm letting the bastard cool down right before I see how bad the damage is. Hope to hell nothing got sheared off. This car is just a clunker I got for a few hundred bucks and am hesitant to sink any money into it. May just ghetto rig it together with a tac weld.
*dodges a barrage of tomatoes*
#17
#18
Holy crap, I just had this exact same thing happen to me on a nearly identical car: '90 240DL with 140k miles. Damn thing overheated, lost power steering and all my idiot lights came on. Luckily I was uphill from home and was able to coast most of the way back without cooking the engine.
Just as I was taking the last turn onto my street, I hear this noise out my window going DING-ALING-ALING-ALING-ALING and fades away. So I park at my house, run back to where I heard the noise, and what do I see sitting smack in the middle of the sidewalk? A bigass crank pulley bolt and bigass washer just waiting for me like it's my birthday.
I'm letting the bastard cool down right before I see how bad the damage is. Hope to hell nothing got sheared off. This car is just a clunker I got for a few hundred bucks and am hesitant to sink any money into it. May just ghetto rig it together with a tac weld.
*dodges a barrage of tomatoes*
Just as I was taking the last turn onto my street, I hear this noise out my window going DING-ALING-ALING-ALING-ALING and fades away. So I park at my house, run back to where I heard the noise, and what do I see sitting smack in the middle of the sidewalk? A bigass crank pulley bolt and bigass washer just waiting for me like it's my birthday.
I'm letting the bastard cool down right before I see how bad the damage is. Hope to hell nothing got sheared off. This car is just a clunker I got for a few hundred bucks and am hesitant to sink any money into it. May just ghetto rig it together with a tac weld.
*dodges a barrage of tomatoes*
#19
Honestly I would just buy the timing gear from fcpeuro and a timing belt and tensioner and replace it.. It only took us like 3-4 hours and I have the peace of mind knowing it was fixed right.... I was thinking of doing something like you mentioned but knowing i don't have to worry as worth it to me
So I put it all back together, locktited the living hell out of the bolt and added a lock-washer for good measure. So far, so good. Next time I'm at the junkyard I'll see if I can find a good Volvo donor car to score that timing gear off of, so when I eventually do my timing belt I'll get them all done at once.
Here are some pics of my 5 cent repair: