240 93 volvo station wagon 2.4 fuel injection engine Im having a idle issue. car starts fine. when i drive it at speed then coast to a stop sign stop. Engine dies. its not a all the time problem. but its an issue needs to be fixed. also it hard to start the car after its been turned on and hot engine. From what Ive read. I havent done the self diagnostics yet. its a my Fuel pressure regulator. Its leaking a small amount of gas back out the vacuum port. the diaphram is going bad. Is this a correct assesement ? Is there a differnce between the bosch,becker arnett and other pressure regulators other than price? the issue is leaking gas back into the manifold and its flooding when at idle. also causing vapor lock. Thanks for the help,

 

I'd get the bosch one, they made the original, which has lasted 20 years.

 

I'm thinking the same thing. They run $84 new found a used one for $42.00 I'll update the thread.

 

I got a Bosch unit. Waiting for the mail. Today I filled up the tank. The engine ran fine 40 miles no issues. On the return trip 50 miles later and warmer the engine was running rich. Stalled on me twice started back up. Got home. I'll post some pics of the install

 

after you change it, you probably should read and clear any diagnostics from the little diag block under the hood, on both the EFI (pin 2) and Ignition (pin 6) sides...

 

You definately want to buy a Haynes or Bentley Manuel. OG owner manual is also helpful on any project.I would spend the extra on the Bentley Manual.Haynes sells a separate A/C chapter. The first step in changing out the FPR(Fuel Pressure Regulator) is to de-pressure the fuel system. On this I followed the manual. Remove Fuse#7 and remove gas tank filler cap. Turn car on and start till engine till stalls and turn off. On this step i didnt really wait to the engine to stall i just turned it off. Reason I wasnt sure if Fuse#7 is correct on my Fuse box. Im assuming its the same for all years. Correct if Im wrong. Moving along. Factory Radio Owners. Remember to turn off your radio to OFF. Disconnect the battery. I just disconnect negative and make sure its not hitting any metal out of the way.

 

IMAG2270 Tools Needed. 3/8 Ratchet 10mm socket shallow is best. T-25 Torx screwdriver preferred I used a 3/8 socket. For Factory Fuel fastener removal. Pressure Small Vice Grip to clamp down on the fuel line. Not too tight. small cap of motor oil for the 0-ring FPR. 2inch 3/8 drive extension. 10/11mm combo open ended wrench remove batter ground. Of course you can use what ever works and that you may have. I did buy that T-25 Torx socket a few weeks ago which also removes the factory black fan shroud. The old FPR is pictured there. Bosch unit ran for 19yrs!

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575501172/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575501172/ by , on Flickr FPR is a common issue. My engine was not idling off at stops. especially if you gassed then just coasted to a stop the engine would turn off occasionally. engine hard to start after it was hot.Suspected FPR yes its gas leaking into the vaccuum hose. Vaccuum hose smells like gas! FAILED FPR


Here s the used/good Bosch Unit I purchased on ebay. I got it for $42.00 from a Volvo parts guy. I figuared Im on a budget WTH! New Bosch units run $84-$110 . Mine has a 3month warranty we will see. The good thing is this job takes about 15-20mins. Probaly quicker if Im not that good. http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575500788/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575500788/ by , on Flickr

 

Removing the unit is pretty straightforward. Make sure you disconnect the battery. Have a rag. a water hose or a fire extinquisher close to you. Whenever your working on the fuel system. In my case I have a water hose with crazy water pressure close to me. Remove vacuum hose and remove Fuel line. T-25 fuel clamp. before you remove the fuel line use a vice grip to clamp on the fuel line. here you dont want to use alot of pressure .On this part I recommend that you replace the fuel line piece . I didnt although its still fine. i felt a little hard for me.http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575501652/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575501652/ by , on Flickr Next is removing the 10mm bolts. The good thing is theyre s locked on the back side .removing them is easy. two bolts out. Now you want to just wiggle the unit out of the oring hole.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575503336/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575503336/ by , on Flickr
Now that you have the unit out . You can clean up around the area. Both units side to side. http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575502878/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575502878/ by , on Flickr

 

Installation is the reverse of removal. you want to put some clean motor oil on the o-ring seal. the unit pops into the port hole on the fuel rail. install 10mm bolts, vaccum line. Fuel line. I hooked everthing back up and turned on the car. I immediately noticed the engine idling smoother. Test was perfect no stalling issues! Re-checked under the hood for any fuel leaks. Great . I also reset the codebox. This repair is a basic one and can be done by anyone that has the tools and the part. Hopefully this helps someone out here the forum.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575504448/http://www.flickr.com/photos/56871527@N03/7575504448/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/56871527@N03/, on Flickr