Hey guys ran into an issue this morning. Had my car make a couple of odd noises, nothing definitive, and then a total loss of power. It died, wouldn't restart. Left it for about 3 hours, went back, and now it barely idles and has no acceleration even at full throttle. The more gas I try to give it, the worse it becomes like it's chocking itself off.

I have NO IDEA where to start but I did a full tune about 6 months ago, plugs and wires look fine, and now I'm at a loss as where to begin.

It reminds me of a clogged cat but I'm not going to throw a couple hundred at a "maybe."

Any ideas where to start ??

 

If you feel confident of the tune up, then somewhat rule out: plugs, wires, cap, rotor

IT SOUNDS LIKE A HEAD GASKET OR FUEL RELATED. CHECK FOR CODES.(small black box with a wire to jump terminals) they blink as in code: blink+blink...pause....blink+blink+blink...pause.. ..blink+blink....equals: 2-3-2 code etc.

1) check battery voltage
2) spark test
3) fuel pump test
Let us know

 

I'd start with taking a look at the MAFS, if it has one (Regina ignition ones do not) as the symptoms point to that... Is the CEL on? If so, then run the codes.

 

I replaced the fuel pump relay with a known good one, as well as the radio sup. relay - no change.

Changed the fuel filter thinking possible clog and I haven't done it in a long time. - no change.

No CEL light on.

Pulled the #4 plug, spark at 3/4 inch from ground strong orange, sometimes blue/white.

Ran the DTM - 3. Injectors click, cold start clicks relay to turn the fan on activates but doesn't start fan ( switch was off. not sure if that's a problem but I can't see it being one.)

Regina system so no MAS to test.

Diag shows code 1-2-2 when pin is in slot 2, air temp sensor

No faults in ignition codes 1-1-1.

I can hear the fuel pump prime, but that doesn't mean a thing and the cat can't be plugged because the previous owner must have removed it. (straight pipe)

 

It's not a CAT issue. Check for intake hose leak... Is it running rich, plugs wet? How's the timing belt? Might it have skipped a tooth?

 

Idle Air Control Valve...and related...clean the connections....CRC connection cleaner.
clean the IACValve.....

 

Plugs look good and are dry. I'll check the belt in the morning and the the contacts on the IACV.

 

I would look here also. Go through the idle set up procedure where you take the IAC out of the picture. Should be able to let it idle at 500rpm with the IAC disconnected and plugged.

 

Well I did look at the IAC and that wasn't the issue. Apparently, being about 90* out of time is the culprit.

Whee....at least it's a RWD though, that takes 90% of the headache out of it.

EDIT: Headache until now. It appears that the little woodruff key between the crank and the pully is MIA. Cranks is ok, pulley is roughed up.

Guess it's time to replace that since I'm staring it in the face.

 

crank pulley o-ring you mean? if cracked or MIA it would through off your timing.

all I could find, as an image, as far as the word key was the jpg attached

 

It's that sprocket, or gear on the cam. It looks like it was supposed to have a woodruff key in it. When I looked harder I found that there is a lock tab on the outside of the gear on a new one. Mine however, sheered off.

My balancer was pretty easy to take off so, I suspect, that's probably part of what contributed to the problem. Now I need to see if I can get that gear from a local volvo shop, or if I order it overnight tonight.

 

update:

got all the parts to do a timing belt change including a crankshaft gear who's ear that hold the harmonic balancer. (seems the keeper tooth sheared off)

So...in putting it all back together I followed the IPD instructions and used the outer plate covering the gear to time it. But the harmonic balancer shows that it's about 20* out to the right of the mark which, would put the mark on the outer plate off from where it should be.

Fired it up and it's running a bit better, but not much ( very little throttle response, a bit better on rpms). So I'm wondering if I should time it off the harmonic balancer, or what my next step should be?

The marks for the camshaft and the intermediate shaft are where they should be.

 

Ohhh yes yes the notch....now I see what happened....

wow that is a first man....for me any who.

I always align all three marks....camshaft, intermittent and harmonic balancer and not using the timing marks on that plastic lip that reads from 0 to 30? but from the notch on the engine behind that sprocket to the slot/or hole on the balancer...screw everything else and always find it to run best...or stock I guess.

 

So I'm wondering...there appears to be a little #1 or a mark that looks like that behind the crank gear. Is that where the little belt cover plate is supposed to be aligned to ?

I'm wondering because, given the balancer being that far away from TDC, I'm thinking there might be a mark farther to the left that I'm not seeing.

 

With cylinder 1 at top dead center, the dot on the cam sprocket should match up with the line on the rear timing belt cover. Same for the half shaft sprocket.

If you are using the timing marks on the timing belt, the crank belt mark for the crank pully should align to the notch in the crankshaft (where you were expecting the woodruff key). When putting the belt on the crank pulley when cylinder 1 is at TDC, you'll note that the crank mark on the belt won't even be touching the pulley. What I always do is put the belt on, load the tensioner & tighten it, then back the crank pulley backwards to make sure the crank notch matches up with the mark on the belt. If it doesn't, go back an do it again.

Take a look at this faq. It has a nice picture:

Engine. Seals, Belts, Crankcase Ventilation

Just scroll down a bit where it shows the timing belt.

Good luck

 

Act,

So you just roll it counterclockwise to make sure that the lines on belt end up being at the notch in that t-belt cover plate (thin)?

I found something odd this evening and that is that the tool to lock the harmonic balancer doesn't lock into place at tdc it is offset from the crank and I have to turn it about 20* to set it in. Shouldn't it lock at tdc?? I did notice that I was on at the cam, but off a tooth or two at the crank.

We'll see what happens tomorrow....

 

Yes, I roll it counterclockwise after I set the tensioner. This is just to make sure the last mark on the belt matches up with the notch.

Regarding the tool to lock the harmonic balancer, are you referring to the tool that holds it so you can loosen the bolt? If so, I don't think the tool locks it at any particular position. It is just designed to hold it. I haven't used such a tool so I am not familiar with it.