'93 940 Turbo Wagon - Fuel Gauge
#1
'93 940 Turbo Wagon - Fuel Gauge
So, I just got a 1993 940 Turbo Wagon off a friend, about 218k miles on it. The biggest annoyance right now is going to have to be the fact that my fuel gauge is stuck on full. I'm not sure if it's a stuck float or something, but I know for a fact it's NOT full. I parked on a hill the other day, and it went down to about a half tank, but I can't replicate the problem. I also removed a bunch of junk out of one of those little storage compartments on the floor in the hatch on the left side and it got my gauge to jump to about a quarter tank, but the gauge is back to being stuck on full and I can't fix the problem, still. My friend said that she drove the car to about 220 odd miles on the trip-meter and that usually lasted her a whole tank, but I know I don't drive AT ALL similarly to her and I don't really want to run my tank dry and fill it back up.
All I know is that back in that compartment, there's a little harness or clip, and if I unplug it, my fuel gauge will drop to empty. Do I need to drop the tank and replace the float? I've heard there can be a bunch of places that can cause the fuel gauge to malfunction, but I'm not really sure where to start. Also, if I need to get to the tank without dropping it, is there an access point from within the car to get to the tank? I've seen some sites claim there is, and some claim you can only get to the tank by dropping the tank.
Also, I do believe the in-tank pump is working, since you can hear a distinct whine from the tank if you remove the gas cap and place your ear over the hole. But, on top of that, whenever the car is running, there is a pretty loud whine/hiss coming from the fuel-filter area. Not sure if that's normal or not, but according to my friend, they just replaced the filter a few months prior.
Don't know much about Volvos, as this is my first and I've only owned it for a week. It's my second car, replacing my tore-up-from-the-floor-up Rabbit Convertible. I'm also a teenager and taking it to the shop isn't really in the question at this time, and my parents can't think of any solutions other than dropping the tank or checking the connections to my cluster, but I can't do any of that until this weekend and I'd rather avoid dropping the tank or removing the dash.
ANY help or input is appreciated! Thanks!
--Jacob
All I know is that back in that compartment, there's a little harness or clip, and if I unplug it, my fuel gauge will drop to empty. Do I need to drop the tank and replace the float? I've heard there can be a bunch of places that can cause the fuel gauge to malfunction, but I'm not really sure where to start. Also, if I need to get to the tank without dropping it, is there an access point from within the car to get to the tank? I've seen some sites claim there is, and some claim you can only get to the tank by dropping the tank.
Also, I do believe the in-tank pump is working, since you can hear a distinct whine from the tank if you remove the gas cap and place your ear over the hole. But, on top of that, whenever the car is running, there is a pretty loud whine/hiss coming from the fuel-filter area. Not sure if that's normal or not, but according to my friend, they just replaced the filter a few months prior.
Don't know much about Volvos, as this is my first and I've only owned it for a week. It's my second car, replacing my tore-up-from-the-floor-up Rabbit Convertible. I'm also a teenager and taking it to the shop isn't really in the question at this time, and my parents can't think of any solutions other than dropping the tank or checking the connections to my cluster, but I can't do any of that until this weekend and I'd rather avoid dropping the tank or removing the dash.
ANY help or input is appreciated! Thanks!
--Jacob
#2
Well, the problem seems to be with the tank part (float) since if you disconnect it at the harness this drops the gauge to empty... To access it you don't have to drop the tank-there is an access panel under the rear cargo floor panel. It is a doable project even though it does require some skill... and probably a new float which can be pricey.
#3
to get to the fuel pump on a 740/940 wagon, first, put down the back seats, then, that floor panel that flips down to cover the hinges, lift the leading edge and you'll see 3 nuts over curved straps, remove these three nuts, then lift and pull that panel forward to remove from the car.
now you've exposed a black square in the floor on the left side, unbolt the 4 nuts holding this down, and remove the panel, and that exposes the fuel pump and gas sender access.
now, actually getting that out and back in is a major beotch. the big plastic ring that holds it on is really hard to get back on and the pump+sender assembly is really hard to get in and out of the tank. absolutely for sure, don't start until you've drained most of the gas tank into a clean gasoline container. those tanks on the wagons hold like 15.6 gallons (60 L), and the cars get about 18-22MPG typical, so you have a range around 240 miles before damn empty.
anyways... here's a picture of what you'll see with the access panel open
and here's a nicely illustrated procedure for taking iit out and replacing it, on a sedan. access is a little easier on a wagon but getting that ring back on is still a beotch.
http://www.vcoa.org/700-900-faq/Fuel...eplacement.htm
now you've exposed a black square in the floor on the left side, unbolt the 4 nuts holding this down, and remove the panel, and that exposes the fuel pump and gas sender access.
now, actually getting that out and back in is a major beotch. the big plastic ring that holds it on is really hard to get back on and the pump+sender assembly is really hard to get in and out of the tank. absolutely for sure, don't start until you've drained most of the gas tank into a clean gasoline container. those tanks on the wagons hold like 15.6 gallons (60 L), and the cars get about 18-22MPG typical, so you have a range around 240 miles before damn empty.
anyways... here's a picture of what you'll see with the access panel open
and here's a nicely illustrated procedure for taking iit out and replacing it, on a sedan. access is a little easier on a wagon but getting that ring back on is still a beotch.
http://www.vcoa.org/700-900-faq/Fuel...eplacement.htm
#4
The 940s have bigger tanks, 20+gallons... All the hoses have to come out, one of them usually has to be cut as the access is bad.... Use a gentle tapping tool to loosen the big nut, the 'bung nut', Use Vaseline to put it back... Placing the pump/sending unit correctly in the tank is for me the trickiest part...
#7
#9
#12
Well, to each his own, but many times we fail to do the math... like in this case... let's see: I am sure if you take the time you save to fill up fewer times (only real saving), and compare it to the time you'll spend sourcing, buying, installing, screwing up, fault finding the new tank, you'll realize may be some benefit after having driven 500,000 (or so) miles... I'd try to get better mileage, 18 on an open road is not OK in my book... you should be at 23mpg.
#13
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