The shift lever of my 1992 940GL is stuck in Park. Pressing on the brake pedal does not release it. Pressing numerous times on the brake pedal does release it. Anybody know what I need to replace? Thanks, 2sailors

 

have to change the shifter solenoid, at the shifter, that releases it upon stepping on the brake... u may just disable it if you don't want to change it since it's pricey...

 

my 92 940GL doesn't have the shift interlock.... yours shouldn't as well. you may be looking at something jamming up in the shifter or handle, or possibly a worn bushing in the linkage under the car.

IIRC, the shift interlock system came in play in either 93 or 94 models.

 

Thank you Lev. I have new observations: While in Park, I cannot always start the engine. Once I manage to get the lever in the neutral position after pumping on the brake pedal, the engine will not always start. With the ignition key in the II position and move the shifter slightly forward or backward, I can hear two simultaneous clicking sounds, one fron the innards of the shifter (presumably the solenoid) and another from under the dash on the drivers side (presumably a relay).

Since I am able to make the solenoid click and then can move the shifter lever I presume the solenoild is good but that there is some electrical circuit interruption/reconnection being caused by moving the shift lever forward or backward. By getting the shift lever in the right position, the engine will start. Once started, it stays on with no problems until I shut it down. I presume there must be a relay somewhere which ignores the shifter interlocking system once the engine is running. This may be the relay I hear under the dash.

There must be a switch within the shift lever assembly that I am activating by my moving the shift lever in neutral. Maybe this switch is either mechanically loose or in the process of failing totally.

Does anyone know is there is a switch within the shifter mechanism and what its function is? Anyone know how to access it?

Many thanks, 2sailors.

PS: Thanks again Lev

 

Thank you NCvolvo40, Please read my response to Lev. There is clearly some mechanism that causes the key switch, solenoid, ignition, shift-lever position to be linked, probably for safety purposes. I may have given this system the wrong name. Thanks, 2sailors

 

here is the info you need, from the Brickboard.

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...ftingOutofPark

 

the earlier ones DO have a shift interlock, but its not an external button like it is on newer models. you stick your finger through the 'brush' at the very back of the shifter channel and the manual interlock is under it. at least, this works on our 87 244GL and 91 945SE(965t4) and 92 745T. I forget if you push it down or pull it up, but I invoked it the other day on the '87 to manually roll the car while shut off.

 

I'll have to get into the console on mine... mine has no stickers/print/solenoid click and can pull mine out of park even with the key in my pocket... might be someone rigged it after it acted up...

2 sailors, you may have a neutral safety swith out of adjustment...

 

Well, Thanks to all, especially Lev, I now can move the shift lever out of Park. This was accomplished by cleaning and lubricating the parts os the shift lever mechanism being careful not to get lubricant on the solenoid or electrical components. Now when I turn on the ignition and press the brake pedal I can hear the solenoid functioning and the lever is free to move from park to other positions.

There is something I simply do not understand however: Reportedly the solenoid of the 1992 940GL is activated by the brake light switch when I depress the brake pedal. This switch is located above the brake pedal and is clearly visible from below the dash. BUT THIS IS NOT THE SWITCH THAT CAUSES THE SOLENOID TO CLICK WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL IS PRESSED. There must be another switch somewhere, possibly a switch activated by the hydraulic pressure in the braking system. I can clearly see that the brake pedal is not touching the brake light switch plunger at all when the brake pedal is depressed enough to cause the solenoid to be activated.

Any ideas anyone??

 

How did this resolve? I have a '92 240 unable to get out of Park and am hoping the cleaning of parts will do it. Would prefer not to mess with the Shift Overdrive. My '92 240 has the shift overdrive button, and I wonder if the bypass method and that $39 plate is a good fix. Anyone? D Day, Maine

 

try using the manual release which can be activated by one finger through the brushes at the back end of the shifter. once you can
feel the lever you move it to the left while pressing the release on the shift lever and out of park at the same time. i got mine to work
better by spraying wd-40 down the left side of the shifter mechanism after taking the cover off.
the shift lock has nothing to do with the overdrive.

 

you seem to be confusing the park lock with the overdrive solenoid, they are two completely different things. the park lock is unlocked when the ignition key is on, and your foot is on the brake, you can then shift the transmission out of Park.

The Overdrive circuit is effectively 4th gear, and is controlled by a pushbutton that toggles both the OD solenoid on the side of the transmisison, and the OD light on the dashboard. When the light is OFF, the Overdrive Solenoid is powered, and the transmission will automatically shift in and out of overdrive(4th) as needed. if you push the button, the OD light comes on, the solenoid is de-powered, and the car will stay in 3rd gear rather than shifting to OD(4th), this is good for going up and down long hills, to keep the transmission from hunting gears. The button actually connects to an OD Relay behind the dashboard, this relay controls both the light and solenoid.

 

thx, Pierce, I'm clear on that basic truth re: Overdrive vs. Stuck in Park. Thanks for your patience. As to Silvermine's insight: right on, with this simple addition, thanks to my driving an hour to Tom at Peter's Independent Auto in Augusta, Maine where 300 vintage Volvo sit in neat splendor on the property, which, like Al Wheeler's an hour south, is a fine source of both insight and parts. Tom showed me a shifter mechanism out of a car and made things more clear to me, but his advice on the phone was the breakthrough that I haven't read anywhere else and which is very basic. There is a metal pin about 3/16th or a quarter inch long on the right side (passenger side) of the center of the shift mechanism which needs to go into a hole on the white plastic piece in order to allow the car to Start. What happened to my car, ('92 240 wagon with 190,000 miles) was that I'd parked on an uneven incline where the right front tire was elevated causing (only my hunch) enough torque to make the old plastic piece vulnerable to the metal pin coming out. I probably jerked the shift lever enough to finish the job, leaving the white plastic vertical piece with hole in it, Fore of the correct position and the metal pin AFT of it, thereby rendering the shifter in the Locked in Park position. There is enough play in the machinery to carefully pry the pin back into the hole. Voila! All is well and car starts.
But I was worried that a) the micro shift was already shot and b) that something else could fail similarly that I drove the car to Independent Auto in Augusta (57 minutes) to have Tom simply remove the little lock washer that holds the yellow plastic Lock Shift Override piece entirely, allowing the yellow plastic piece to be removed. Just in case. I keep it now in my wallet, beside the raccoon ***** bone that I use to shock people when I pick my teeth with it at parties. Just in case.

 

Part II of It's all right. It's not.
The removal of the yellow plastic Override the system part may have been a dumb idea. I know there are multiple variables that could prevent the shift from going into Park or out of Park, and now I have a broken semi-circular plastic piece (half moon) that has something to do with guiding the shifter into gear.

Question: the major bolt holding the shift mechanism to the body or transmission itself is likely rusted to hell. (190,000miles). And the transmission has to be dropped an inch to remove the whole mechanism if the Fix is replacement, right? Any tips? If the micro shift or an electrical issue is the problem, can this be fixed and the shifter still be fine? Is that broken half moon on the left side with the guide line for a pin essential? Thx, DDay

 

Very interested in both those places can you provide further details thanks

 

Sure, Silvermine. Peter at Independent Auto died very recently. His protege, Tom, is in charge of: Independent Auto at 683 Riverside Dr. Augusta, ME 04330 207-622-4563 300 rear drive Volvos neatly lined up in a field and a well-run garage.
Al Wheeler, Tom's friend, in Leeds, ME with fifty cars melting under trees, but a really good resource and a fine fellow. Got a filler pipe for my 240, removed it, took cash. Good guy. 207-524-5591 mostly sure this number is correct. Good luck. What are you after? DOUG DAY

 

thanks very much for the info. no need specially right now but always on the lookout for any good vintage
volvo used part sources as pick+pull yards are almost non existent around my area. it's 170 miles to
augusta/leeds from here but that's a good road trip right?

 

Right, and in spite of my pals, what would make me more confident in my 240 is a new shifter, entire assembly, already out of the car. Any ideas? It's a bear to get out. Thanks, Doug Day 1992, 240 seeking shifter mechanism already out of car.

 

It's prob the ignition switch

 

Thx for this! Very helpful. DDay