'95 940 ROUGH start

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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 05:59 PM
  #21  
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at air temp (80ish deg. F.) the ohms meter reads a constant 3.38 between pin 13 and pin 5. Should I pick up a new ECT sensor?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 06:13 PM
  #22  
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3.38 ohms or kiloohms ? 3.4 k Ohms (which is 3400 ohms) is about right for 80F.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 05:12 PM
  #23  
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I timed the car today and it seemed to clear up the majority of the problem. It was able to start and drive, but was giving me some trouble. It would often lose power, and then regain, almost like it was running out of gas (I have half a tank). I am getting code 2-1-4 from the ignition plug (6). This is the RPM sensor as I understand. Do I just need a new one?
Thanks
 
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 05:24 PM
  #24  
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how did you 'time the car' ? with LH 2.4, the timing is hard wired by the crank position sensor.

half of CPS (aka rpm sensor) problems are flakey wiring insulation as the location gets a lot of abuse.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 11:10 PM
  #25  
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I "timed" it by taking off the timing belt, resetting the crank, cam, and oil drive sprockets to their TDC location. Then put the belt back on.
I unplugged the CPS and cleaned the contacts. Then cleared the codes, and everything has been working fine. I do still have an oil leak from the rear main. So I am now going to replace the oil trap and see if this slows/stops the leak. If not then a new seal will be going in.

Thanks for the help
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 12:45 AM
  #26  
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ok, gotcha. I'm just curious... did you check the timing belt before you took it off? which way was the cam off?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 09:30 AM
  #27  
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well... looking at the motor, from the front it rotates clockwise. Therefore i am guessing that the crank pushed the belt and skipped one or so teeth on the cam, this would cause a retarded timing. No i didn't look at the belt. I figured it was easier to just redo it. It was a new belt since i rebuilt the motor and i supposed it stretched a little because it was a little lose.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 01:05 PM
  #28  
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the tensioner should have taken up any slack... and toothed belts shouldn't stretch.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:01 AM
  #29  
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The timing belt is supposed to be re-tensioned some 500 miles after installing a new one. That is what the little rubber cap is for on the timing belt cover. It allows access to the tensioner without removing the entire cover. When re-tensioning, turn the crankshaft clockwise a bit in order to take the slack out of the cam and half-shaft. Then loosen the tensioner bolt and then re-tighten.
 
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