I just did my AC, struts and control arm bushings today and still get a clunk when I hit bumps.

The new shocks do seem to keep the car more stable - but the suspension noise is the same.

How much work is it to completely rebuild the front suspension? Is this doable in the course of a weekend?

how many man-hours for a n00b?

The AC feels GREAT, btw. Very nice since it was 95 here today!

 

the control arm pivot bushings are a real bear to replace, you need a seriously large press to get the old ones out of the control arms, and a hefty vocabulary as you'll be using every profanity you can muster.

first thing I'd check would be the front anti-sway bar. this has two 'eyebolt' shaped ends that have bushings, plus it pivots on two bushings bolted to the frame. when these wear out, you can get lots of clunks and rattles.

 

we did the control arm bushings today. So the antisway bar is next, eh?

how hard is this?

 

the swaybar is bolt on easy. hand tools and 2 jack stands in the driveway, with a friend to help you drink the 6-pack.

here's IPD's instructions on installing their replacement front swaybar kit
http://www.ipdusa.com/files/product/...LL%20GUIDE.PDF

 

On my 90 240, the rear control arm bushing nut regularly works loose a half turn or so. It then clunks on bumps. I resignedly crawl under and tighten it (mainly left side). I've tried loc-tite, and even put a lock washer behind it. It still works loose over time. I haven't quite got the nerve to go the JB Weld, but it is tempting.

 

I don't know offhand what the torque spec on that is, but I bet its a lot. are you torquing it down?

 

Thank you!!

 

Did you replace the front ball joints and also the strut top bearing.

 

my Bentley 240 book says, trailing arm to body, 80 ft-lbs. trailing arm to axle, 90 ft-lbs. that's a lot of torque, like 1/2" drive 6-point sockets with a large torque wrench.

it also says, 'do not reuse self-locking nuts, they will fail. always replace with new fasteners', but it doesn't make clear which are self-locking nuts.