<FONT face="Times New Roman, Times, serif" color=blue size=4>HELP</FONT></P>


<FONT face="Times New Roman, Times, serif" color=blue size=4>I just bought an '86 244. I can't seem to get the brake lights to work. All the other lights work, but I don't see any voltage at the brake light recepticle. I've checked and cleaned all fuses and contacts, made sure the bulb holders are on the correct sides (white on right), and it seems that the brake light switch is working. (I can see it open when the pedal is pressed, and close when pedal released) If this is correct for the switch, I think that i must be overlooking a ralay someplace.</FONT></P>


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<FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#0000ff size=4>Can someone give me a clue. I have a Haynes manual, and the wiring diagram they provide is almost worthless.</FONT></P>


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<FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#0000ff size=4>Ken</FONT></P>

 

Ken, the brake switch on my 1983 Dl isbehind the brake pedal(86 240 is the same car). When you depress the pedal to 5/16 to 9/16"down, the brake lights come on because the down pedal completes the circuit. Since you are not getting power on the sockets ( no voltageon circuit), have some one watch the brake lights while hand press down the brake switch. If the lights come on, all you need to do is adjusting the height of the switch. If no lights, check the voltage on the power side of the switch. if still no power, following the circuit to the battery. As far as I know, the is no relay on this circuit. Good luck, Andrew

 

Hi,</P>


I got a similar problem on my 91-240. It costs me 175 to find that out from a mechanics (Iwas there seeinghim doing it). </P>


There is a relay called the "bulb failure sensor" under the dash. It is an orange cylinder with 10-12 pins on the bottom. P/n 1362370 for most, listed about 110 but you can buy it thru the internet for about 50 dollars.</P>


Good Luck and let me know the outcome.</P>


10/22 from CA</P>


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Thanks to all. It took me a while to understand, but I was troubleshooting the wrong switch! I had been checking the Cruise Control Switch on the brake pedal. Once I puuled the vacuum assist, or canister, or booster, or whatever that is, I could see the Brake Light Switch. Checked it, replaced it, and everything worked fine... Except the left brake light. I had rebuilt the right housing, to include new contacts on the connector portion of the "circuit waffer", so I had to do the same on the left housing. NOW it all works correctly!</P>


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Ken</P>

 

Ken:</P>


I am glad that you got your problem solved! I hope that you can help me out. I am having the same brake light problem. I have an '86 240GL. I did notice that there were two switches as well. Do you remember which switch you replaced (on the left or right side)? And, how did you get the switch off? It seems a little cramped under the brake pedal. I would appreciate any response. Thanks!</P>


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Regards,</P>


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Joe</P>


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Joe,</P>


I don't know if you still need help or not, but I'll reply for future viewers in any case.</P>


One of the switches, and by FAR the easiest one to replace is NOT the brake light switch. Simply put, if the switch has a black rubber tube on it (vacuum), it is the Cruise Control switch. I "think" all that it does is to allow vacuum to be present when the cruise is engaged, and releases vacuum (disabling the cruise) when the brake pedal is pressed.</P>


The Brake Light switch is further UP the brake pedal arm, and almost cannot be seen without removing the vacuum diaphram (or whatever it is) and bracket. The Brake Light switch is held in place by a C-Clip, or "U" shaped clip that simply slides off the switch. Normally the clip will have a tange or something that you can grap ahold of.</P>


Before you replace the Brake Light switch, test it in place. First see (or feel) if the plunger or button on the switch actually goes out when the brake pedal is pressed. The, for lack of better phrase, "depth set nut" may have moved, though this probably wouldn't keep the brake lights off. (If it loosens, I think the brake lights will stay on)</P>


Second, check continuity on the switch itself. Off the top of my head, I think that with the plunger depressed, it should read opened, and closed with the plunger released. In any case, there should be a different reading in the "Push/Not Push" positions. If you don't see a difference then you have found the problem.</P>


It doesn't matter if you remove the wiring connector (at the switch) before or after you pull the clip off, so do whichever is easier.</P>


Once you put the new switch in, remember to adjust the depth guide nut to ensure that the switch will open when you press the brake pedal.</P>


Good Luck!</P>

 

Ken:</P>


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Thanks for your reply! Unfortunately, I just completed the repair, with a little help from the older children. A few notes to your write up may prove useful to others, so I willpass them on. First, I decided to remove the front seat. Fairly easy; you need a 13 mm socket. The front 2 are nuts, and the back two are bolts. The back left hand bolt has a plastic cover with 2 plastic bottons that must be popped of to reach it. There is a lot more room, but a pillow was nice for my back and to keep the front seat studs from poking me.Disconnect the negative battery terminal before proceeding. I removed the black felt cover under the dash for a little more arm room. If you have cruise control, I found it necessary to remove the bracket holding the black cruise control switch and the vacuum actuator (or whatever) as you described. You will need to remove the wiring to the cruise control swtch and the vacuum tubing. I found it helpful to have someone depress the gas pedal to form a little slack to remove the cotter pin holding in the two halves of the actuator together. The brake light switch can then be seen. The part is relatively inexpensive (~ $12 from Kragen - Beck/Arnely part number 201-1154), but doesn't look exactly like the switch you will replace. It's a lot longer and narrower and has two nuts to adjust the contact length. To remove the switch, there is a nut that must be removed, and then you can pull the switch out the back end (closest to the brake pad). This takes a few minutes, as you will need a 17 mm open end wrench. At best you can make a 1/4 - 1/2 a turn at a time. At this point, I just replaced the switch. I had already replaced the Bulb out relay, and since I was here anyways.... I did make sure that the new switch worked before reassembling everything.The new switch needs to have the back nut set (closest to the electrical connections). I adjusted the length by comparing the old switch and set the front nut on the switch after I passed it through its mounting hole. I hope this helps!</P>


Now if I could just get my backup lights and rear fogs to work, I'd be set!</P>


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Joe Escobar<FONT face=Arial size=2></P><FONT face=Arial size=2>


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hmm when i hit the brakes my left light goes out! and the top ones dont light and i replaced all the bulbs and everything!!!! HELP!!!!!!