I just bought this 88 240 that is seriously in amazing condition, shiny paint, spotless interior, runs great, has all the receipts, clean title, working ac, ect, ect, for only 275$...the only problem is the broken LR brake caliper bolt..How should I approach this? /31272_1205423670703_1681991976_413527_5429729_n.jp g)

 

without seeing the situation
i would try an easy out
( i prefer the square ones )
and a hot wrench ( oxy-acet )
other wise you will be drilling and tapping
Les

 

I'm in a similar situation. I broke a caliper bolt yesterday at the front end, passenger side.

I drilled it through, tried Sears' variety of an easy-out. No success in backing the broken bolt out yet.

I've applied penetrating oil (Kroil) several times.

The broken off part which includes the bolt head has some distortion of the thread right at the break. I inspected the broken end that's still in the steering knuckle, and it appears the very localized damage to the thread won't bind the bolt in.

These bolts come from Volvo with thread locking compound applied. Some is visible on the broken part of the bolt. So certainly thread lock compound is part of my problem of not being able to back the broken bolt out of the knuckle.

I haven't been able to get my tap wrench onto the extractor. Not enough clearance due to all the parts nearby. I've been trying to turn the extractor with a tiny little crescent wrench and a box wrench on that for more leverage. Not the best tools.

I heated the stuck bolt with a propane torch. I know Loctite thread locking compound gets soft when heated, so I thought maybe the Volvo compound would as well. Still couldn't get the bolt unstuck.

My next move will be to remove the steering knuckle and take it to a mechanic to see if they can free up that broken bolt. Maybe after the knuckle is out of the car I'll be able to get the bolt out by using my tap wrench on the extractor.

Failing that, try to source a used steering knuckle from the parts yards. Best quote so far is $100.

I'm guessing that I got into this mess by trying to remove the caliper bolts with a breaker bar. I was putting a fair amount of force on my breaker bar, and that puts a lot of bending loads on the bolt... it's not just pure torque. I've been too cheap to buy an impact wrench and a compressor. They're on order now and will arrive in a few days :-). Not going to touch the driver's side caliper bolts until I have an impact wrench to use. No more high-leverage breaker bar work for me! It's way too inconvenient to have a bolt fail.

 

Now you know why they call 'em "breaker bars". We get a fair amount of broken caliper bolts here at the shop...customers bring them to us after they break 'em!! If they won't come out with an EZ Out then it's new caliper time.
As for an impact wrench...make sure you soaked 'em a few days w/ PB Blaster or the equivalent. Heat the threads up w/ a propane torch to cook the penetrant in as well as possible. You'll break as many, if not more, bolts w/ an impact than w/ a breaker bar if you don't dial the gun down.

 

http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-200/Brak...p-69-255-3392/

Really, you only spent 275 on an otherwise solid car? Just buy a new caliper. By the time you spend 3 or 4 days sweating and grunting over some bolt with a propane torch and various lubricants (that's what she said) aren't you just going to go "slag it, I think i'll just replace the damn thing"? Even with the new caliper (link above) you're coming in at a good deal for any car, especially a 240.

That's my thought.

 

To the Original Poster: EXCELLENT score on your 240!! You'll get a lot of miles out of it. I'm at 225,000, of which 175,000 are miles I put on. Terrific cars, these 240s. I intend to run mine until a serious drivetrain issue crops up.

The last two posts seem to miss a point. When a caliper bolt breaks, the broken part stays embedded in the steering knuckle (front) or hub assembly (rear). We wish it was as easy as installing a new caliper! Those parts are easy to source. I haven't found anyplace offering a new steering knuckle. No doubt I can get a new part from Volvo if I was willing to pay the price, but I'm not... yet.

swiftjustice44, thanks for the advice on using the impact gun cautiously. I am a newb (gee, can you tell?) and it's good to learn from other peoples' experience.

 

AnEskimo: We would love to hear how your repair went. I hope you were successful with it.

Here's an update on my similar problem, for the benefit of the next guy.

I am still unsuccessful at extracting my broken caliper bolt. Screw extractor wouldn't budge it. I broke one. I then filed a 1/4" square recess in the bolt (a lot of filing!) with the intent of using 1/4" drive tools to apply some serious torque and back that screw out. No success. I've broken several tools in the attempt. I have a 1/4" drive extension that started to twist. Yeah.... the tool yielded... twisted the 1/4" square drive end!

I learned that the steering knuckle is part of the MacPherson strut, a welded unit. Can't just disconnect the knuckle and repair or replace. Have to buy a new MacPherson strut. The good news is that it's in the ballpark of $120-$140 for the part from Volvo. Add in a new wheel bearing (probably about $50) and a couple seals at $5 apiece, since I have to move the hub from the old strut to the new one. Not tooooo bad. Oh, and might as well change the ball joint at the same time.

More tools to buy of course. Pulling a MacPherson strut means a coil spring compressor and a special Volvo tool to remove a recessed nut at the top of the strut. A bearing puller. Maybe a pickle fork to remove the tie rod end. Pickle forks ruin the tie rod end rubber boot, so if you have to use the pickle fork, you have to replace the tie rod end.

And once you've disturbed the front suspension this much, you're definitely taking the car for a front end alignment.

Now, there's more good news. Listen up, newbies, 'coz I wish someone had told me this. I got my impact wrench and compressor. I went out to try removing the caliper bolts on the other side. They both backed right out as smooth as silk. Lesson: If you have to do this work, buy your impact wrench first. Or borrow one. Or rent one. Or steal one. Otherwise sooner or later you're in my predicament, with an easy job that turned into a lot of cost and a lot of time.

I have been worrying over the decision to scrap my beloved 240 at 227,000 miles because of this broken caliper bolt. Do you hear the echo of the Original Poster's story??? Now I get to keep this excellent old car for a few more years. Sweeeeeeeet.