89 240DL- Can the timing be set on a B230F ('89) engine? She idles a little rough, engine seems to bounce around at idle. I've cleaned out the idle control valve and she idles up like shes supposed to when warm. replaced the cap/rotor, clean air filter, cleaned throttle body. Havent tried new plugs yet. I wasnt clear upon reading my Haynes if I can (should) set the timing on this engine. Thanks again! Dave

 

bump...did you ever figure it out? i wonder if it's the same on an 83 240

 

1989+ non-turbo and 1990+ turbos are LH 2.4. 1983-1988 are LH II or 2.2. before 83, they were KE-Jetronics aka CIS-E.

on LH 2.4 cars, the timing is hard wired, at most you adjust the distributor so when the engine is at TDC, the rotor is pointing square at #1 or #3.

on the older cars, you indeed set the timing with a timing light by rotating the distributor as needed.

 

ok i read before that timing should be right around 12 degrees below tdc at idle. mine is right at 15. i'm just trying to get to the bottom of this slight miss that i'm having. car drives great otherwise.

 

A couple of questions ,after removing distributor on 1988 740 turbo LH 2.2,will I need to put a timing light on it and adjust timing ? and to what ? ///ALSO

Dont mean to hijack this thread...but Im working on an1988 740 turbo with a toasted Hall sensor , and want to replace the whole distributor,and was wondering if anyone has had any input on the aftermarket distributors versus the spendy Bosch units ?

I was chasing gremlins on a non runner and the Hall sensor wires basically disintegrated in my greasy lil Mitts romney

 

Short answer - yes. '88 models still had timing set by the distributor. Starting in '89, the normally aspirated engines had the timing set by the computer.

 

pretty sure you can get the hall sensor and rebuild your distributor, unless the bearing is trashed.

 

I'm fairly certain I can buy the hall sensor,and re- rivet it etc , I'm a fairly determined repair kinda guy , but I am a little leary of boogering up those lil rivers , and toasting the whole distributor , ,so I'm exploring what is the best bang for my buck so to speak, so here are my options 1.] the Bosch rebuilt unit Fully loaded W/cap/rotor etc,best price I could muster was around 200.00. plus core ,aprox 60.00 2.] The aftermarket re-pop { Chinee made ? } best price around 50-60. 3.] Bone yard transplant unit ,$ 50.00 w/ 30 day non doa warranty , 4.] re- build mine W/ new hall sensor, O-rings etc aprox $ 25 - 75 , with the potential of those little rivet gremlins ruining the whole party, 5.] I have even considered putting new terminals on existing unit and or splicing the 3 hall sensor wires into existing wiring harness , as I dont think there is anything wrong with it ... the car had a no start issue , and the standard mechanic type guy , started throwing parts at it , and didnt take my gut feeling advice to check the hall sensor { it is my daughters car and was far enough away to warrant someone else trying to get it running } anyway , we cut him off at about 150.00$ worth of repairs , and I went to retrieve it ,and sure as heck at least 1 wire was broke , and the other 2 , fell apart upon distributor removal . I gleaned it up and my workaround mentality kicked in and said , } You can repair this " but I'm having an issue finding the 3 blade terminals to crimp into the black plastic housing .
So I guess I'm just hunting for suggestions , i know the best route would be BOSCH replacement unit , I'm curious if anyone has any comments on the Cheep Chinee units , I'm almost more leaning towards the 217,000 mile boneyard replacement over the slave labor built unit . and I love the idea of putting 3 non existant 29 cent terminals on it and running it another 250,000 miles ,heck I'm only 1/4 of the way to the Million club , and right now I'm a broke cheapskate { temporarily I keep telling myself } . or to really do a kamikaze repair on it and just crimp 3 butt connectors into the existing wires and silicon the dist. housing . and get er goin Cuba style ,where being down aint an option ... anyway I appreciate the input and suggestions from all , and just want to express my undying respect for these 740/940 cars , I have 3 all well over 250k miles , and they dont have a pampered life , they are more SUV ,than most SUV's on the road ... I brutalize these Sveedish Timex's... I'm the legendary guy with the bull Elk on top of my Hunting Volvo 940 , So Thank You Sven and Oly , for valuing youre Sweedish national resources and building a Viking Ship on Wheels aka The Legendary 740/940 is the pinnacle of auto form n function ...bar none !

 

RIVETS ,not RIVERS , sorry about the grammar ,punctuation , and long windedness , its early here In GODZ country , The great American WEST

 

Okay since no one wants to play ...guess I will play with myself ?
Anyway got a free replacement Dstributor from my friend Angel in SLC at European and Japanese repair in MurrayUtah ...guy is a Top Notch Human ! cleaned everything , installed it and VOY LA aka Voila ... fired right up , however went to set timing and she was off , but the car ran fine seemingly , I tried to adjust , but lo and behold ,not enuff adjustment , I must've got 1 cog off when I last did timing belt, car must've run for thousands of miles like that ... but here is the puzzling part ,first I I looked on the interlink and could find a straightforward answer to timing specs , ,then looked at my firewall DUHH ,its right there...2nd ,if this motor is spinning clockwise , and you are standing under hood facing engine shouldnt BTDC be left of the zero mark ? and the 10 be ATDC ?? right of the zero mark ? am I a total doofus ,or what ?
Car seems to run okay at about 2 to 5 degrees Right of the zero ATDC/BTDC ? ,I dont Fugginn know what the heck like I said , So in order to rectumfy my previous error of being 1 brick shy of a load and 1 cog off on my timing , I will loosen the belt tensioner and try to get it Ballz on ...anybody wanna chime in with some Volvo Wizardry , ,or do I need to just keep playing with myself ...I just wanna say thanxz to All especially Angel near SLC , and please folxz lighten up and have fun ,dont take yourself too serious ...

 

DUUHHH ,like I said ,great at playing with myself , looks like the only way to get things done sometimes I solved the dillemma , what is the 2I0 mark on the timing tab is actually 20 BTDC , I thought the 0 was TDC , however like I also came to believe the zero is not on the protruding tab but on the cover to the right of the protruding tabb ...DUUUUHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH , Thanks for all your Help Ken P. at IPD ,no rhyme intended