Car died, PLEASE READ THIS, very strange...
Short and simple, 1988 Volvo 240DL 230 engine, Jetronic Control Unit.
I was driving along and the car just died.
I have no headlights, radio, fan, heater, AC or turn signals to name a few.
Strange thing is, the emergency flashers work as do the brake lights and the interior dome light, the hi-beams work when operated from the steering column control lever.
When turning the key to the start position, NOTHING happens, it won’t turn over, not even the solenoid clicks. Yes, I checked connection to the starter, it has voltage from the battery, but even so, this would not cause the electrical issues.
I have checked the battery, the 25-A fuse holder on the left fender behind the battery the fuses in the fuse block and any fusible links I could locate (the manual says there is one in the engine compartment) I was unable to locate it. I have checked all the wires going to the ignition key switch for DC and there does not seen to be ANY voltage going to the ignition switch.
I have read most all the forums on the 240, two days worth, this is a complete mystery to me; any help would be very much appreciated.
I was driving along and the car just died.
I have no headlights, radio, fan, heater, AC or turn signals to name a few.
Strange thing is, the emergency flashers work as do the brake lights and the interior dome light, the hi-beams work when operated from the steering column control lever.
When turning the key to the start position, NOTHING happens, it won’t turn over, not even the solenoid clicks. Yes, I checked connection to the starter, it has voltage from the battery, but even so, this would not cause the electrical issues.
I have checked the battery, the 25-A fuse holder on the left fender behind the battery the fuses in the fuse block and any fusible links I could locate (the manual says there is one in the engine compartment) I was unable to locate it. I have checked all the wires going to the ignition key switch for DC and there does not seen to be ANY voltage going to the ignition switch.
I have read most all the forums on the 240, two days worth, this is a complete mystery to me; any help would be very much appreciated.
Hi, Blue,
I thought about the ignition switch, but would the ignition switch cause the weird DC power problems I'm having?
I have DC power in fuse locations 6,7,8,9 and 10 only.
I have been corresponding with Tech, we have re-checked all fuses, the fuse holder connections and the sliding black box relay by the battery.
John
If you have voltage at the starter but it will not crank it has to be the starter switch circuit.
Everything else runs from the II key position ..... except emergency circuits such as flashers.
Betcha its the switch.
Everything else runs from the II key position ..... except emergency circuits such as flashers.
Betcha its the switch.
NOPE it was not the ignition switch, but thank you for the input Blue Goose and Jonesg.
Problem solved (with much help from Tech).
Coming off the POSITIVE battery lead there is a fat red wire labeled (AK1363458PO1) going to the sliding black hot wire lead box on the driver side fender top edge.
Anyway, when I played with the wire going into the black sliding box, the (Key in the ignition) bell would ring. Sometimes the engine would allow me to start it, other times it acted like a bad connection. I cleaned it up and put Dielectric grease on it, and it is still intermittent. I will have to replace it, but that was the fix.
I hope this will help anyone with a similar problem.
Thank you againfor your help Tech, you’re the bomb!
John
Problem solved (with much help from Tech).
Coming off the POSITIVE battery lead there is a fat red wire labeled (AK1363458PO1) going to the sliding black hot wire lead box on the driver side fender top edge.
Anyway, when I played with the wire going into the black sliding box, the (Key in the ignition) bell would ring. Sometimes the engine would allow me to start it, other times it acted like a bad connection. I cleaned it up and put Dielectric grease on it, and it is still intermittent. I will have to replace it, but that was the fix.
I hope this will help anyone with a similar problem.
Thank you againfor your help Tech, you’re the bomb!
John
Ahhhh Jonesg,
I'll make ya a deal, how about I buy you a big box of doughnut holes!
Wait,,,,,,,, they sell those now, when I was a kid, getting doughnut holes meant getting nothing. LOL
Hey thanks again.
John
I'll make ya a deal, how about I buy you a big box of doughnut holes!
Wait,,,,,,,, they sell those now, when I was a kid, getting doughnut holes meant getting nothing. LOL
Hey thanks again.
John
If thats the inline fuse on the 240 passenger fender,
IPD sells a waterproof replacement for that problem.
http://www.ipdusa.com/search.asp?str...&submit=GO
"give me liberty or give me...oooh jelly donuts!"
Homer Simpson.
IPD sells a waterproof replacement for that problem.
http://www.ipdusa.com/search.asp?str...&submit=GO
"give me liberty or give me...oooh jelly donuts!"
Homer Simpson.
Hey Jonesg,
No, it was the sliding black box on the side of the fender well, by the battery, where ALL the hot wires from the battery connect, then route to the interior of the car.
It was a bad connection, Icleaned them up and now I have a good connection, ALL IS WELL!
That waterproof 25 amp fuse cover is not a bad idea, but it was not the problem I was having.
Thanks again,
John
No, it was the sliding black box on the side of the fender well, by the battery, where ALL the hot wires from the battery connect, then route to the interior of the car.
It was a bad connection, Icleaned them up and now I have a good connection, ALL IS WELL!
That waterproof 25 amp fuse cover is not a bad idea, but it was not the problem I was having.
Thanks again,
John
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