1986 245, B230F w/ manual 4 speed + OD

Was going to try to not do a ton of things at once just in case something like this happened, but I did do a bit:
- New harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley)
- New camshaft/crank seals, new tensioner, new water pump, new timing belt.
- New accessory belts and bushings for the alternator / AC / power steering.
- New fuses in the panel by the driver's door
- New power and ground battery cables, including a waterproof fuse housing for the FI fuse; I re-installed it's 30A fuse, will pick up a 25A for it but that's what it was runnin'.
- And a rebuilt alternator.

Engine was running well prior to me working on it.
I know the obvious answer is "you set the timing belt wrong" but I'm reasonably sure I didn't.
Crank pulley was dead-on TDC and the camshaft pulleys were at their spots with the belt markings lining up well.

I believe the problem is fuel related (and I didn't directly touch the fuel system); I can't hear the pumps come on.
Confirmed with a spritz of starter fluid, it wants to start but it's not getting gas.

Replaced the fuel pump relay as I had a new spare on hand anyways, no diff. I can feel it click when I turn the ignition on, so likely fine (?).
Fuse #4 is not getting power - hooked up a test light and it never comes on, even while cranking.

Did some brief Googling and found a number of walkthroughs, which I'll start going through.
But figured I'd ask if there was something in the engine bay I might have disturbed that'd cause the fuel pumps to not get power.

 

That's special.
I made a jumper to ground for 86/2 on the fuel pump relay and the pumps kicked on the with the key, but still no start.
Started walking through the hall effect sensor test steps, accidentally bumped the coil wires and something buzzed.

Turned the car off again, reseated the coil wires, and the engine fired up first turn.
Yeah I'm heavily considering a new engine harness for this thing

 

Since it was running well before, and now it doesn't, obviously something you did caused it! It may also be some of the new parts you installed. These days "new" means cheap Asian crap, not better than 20yrs old OEM.

 

Normally I'd absolutely agree.
This time it looks like it was some corrosion on the coil's terminals that got me -- all I did was clean them up, reinstalled the wires back where they were, and it fired right up.
Car hadn't been driven regularly for a long while, previous owner got it running good enough to drive onto a trailer. And the engine harness is showing what seems to be about the normal amount of ****tyness for it's time period; a replacement harness is on the to-do list.
Drove around 60 miles today and it did great.

fwiw I bought a rebuilt Bosch alternator, ATE brake hoses, Continental timing belt, Gates accessory belts, INA tensioner, Hepu water pump, Elring seals, Lemforder steering rack boots, TRW tie rods + ends.. the Corteco crank pulley was the only thing I bought made in China, but it seems like they're all made in China now and it feels really well made.
Some of that probs isn't as good as original, but about the best I could do.
I'm coming from a decade in the aircooled VW world and I'm intimately familiar with cheap asian parts that aren't worth the cardboard they're shipped in :P
But I appreciate the reminder