Alright, so I just got the new fuel pump relay in the mail today, and I swapped it out from the old one (unless there's a possibly I put it in "upside down") and the same starting issue remains. What happened this time specifically was the engine turned over, I felt a nudge of "life" and then it died as I tried to pump the gas pedal lightly. Subsequent starting attempts were just turning over.

This is all very confusing to me since the car started, and I drove it for over an hour on Saturday before returning the previous owner's plates. It started a total of three times that day, although with moderate frustration... and I was foolishly certain it was just a relay issue.

What do you think I should look to next? I know there's a way to jump the fuses... I'm guessing that's my next move. The fuses also look to be fine, no corrosion or anything... if the jumping results in a start, does that mean that the relay is the only issue?

There's also that "mystery relay" I mentioned in my previous post. (http://imgur.com/ZDGwo.jpg) possibly related?

I guess the main thing I'm listening for which I don't seem to be hearing is the "sound" of the fuel pumps. They're supposed to emit a buzz of some sort before the car starts, right? Would this be heard if the key was turned to the "on" position... and is it more audible with the windows up or down? I apologize for the naggy questions, I just live in an area with a lot of background noise (esp. airplanes from JFK) so isolating a noise can be difficult.

Thanks for your time.

- r

 

Some years the pumps are louder than others. 240's are louder than 740's. And 760's are so well insulated you can't hear them at all. Just for grins, and to get something out of the way...get a helper to crank the car over. Before they start, pop the hood and remove the oil filler cap. While keeping clear of all belts, fans and other items of hazard, haveyour helper engage the starter. You should be able to see the cam turning as the starter turns. It is very obvious...no movement means a broken cam belt a/k/a timing belt.
There is a fuel injector fuse near the battery. It is the modern style pade fuse in an open holder. Because of the proximity to the battery, this fuse fails as a result of the fumes from the battery. When it fails, it generally doesn't just blow but rather the entire fuse holder is corroded and needs to be replaced. If this is the case, buy one that has a top that snaps on...much more reliable.
Any luck yet?

 

since this car is new to you
i would be checking all the basic necessities
when you pull the plugs
do they all look the same ?
spark on all ?
good compression ?
air filter ?
cap & rotor ?
running temp ?
fuel filter ?
you should pull the plugs
and take a good look at them
which should tell you how it has been running.
let us know what you find
Les

 

Make sure fuse 4 is clean, place a jumper wire (paper clip) on the left sides of fuses 4 and 6 ... both pumps should now run constantly with the car not running which will make it easy to listen for both of them.

 

But don't do it for long...if you have a pump that is locked up, things that aren't good can happen.

 

Thank you all so much for your replies. The problem was just an electrical bug, thankfully. The minute I got home today, I got a paper clip and was ready to closely inspect the fuses and the new battery I put in (the battery was the key to this little mystery.)

I unhooked & rehooked the terminals making sure the innocuous looking red wire was *TIGHTLY* attached this time, and then waited for a quiet moment and jumped the fuses, and heard the welcoming sound of the pumps. I rechecked the relay, and after about 5-6 cranks she started, and everything looks in the clear now. The problem was at the battery all along I guess, and I feel a little silly now for not checking that before.

While we're on the subject though, Las Vegas brings up a very good point. This car is new to me and I'd like to make sure everything is up to snuff under the hood. On the drive back here last week, I noticed the temperature gauge never rose completely to it's "9 o'clock" reading, and I was on the parkway going 65-70. It usually seems to read about "8" and that's where it rose when I let the car idle just before.

Also since the car is new to me, is there any good trick with these engines to make sure the oil pressure is correct? It has new oil at the correct level, didn't smell or notice any burning/leaking, but I just want to be sure. The engine has a faint smell of gas, but I think that's just due to perhaps residual fuel that's been sitting in the lines since the pump wasn't getting power.

Obviously air filter/plugs/etc I plan on changing. Any brands recommended specifically? I might go for the K&N box filter this time if you think it makes any difference.

 

had the same f in problem 60 miles away from home....the bloody red wire is connected with the positive terminal....I was about to torch the thing.

 

I would never torch my baby...never...you hear me wife? NEVER..EVER EVER EVER...! sorry I got some issues once in a while...