When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
lol, excepting that the RD350 is a two stroke with zero emissions plumbing and they tend to run better on lower octane so old fuel is no bother... My Stihl chain saw starts right up too - except when hot, betting the RD was the same. Modern FI cars know how to deal with temp changes, altitude changes, engine temp and all other conditions while maintaining driveability. I put 250K miles on my 84 Audi 4000Q with out ever having an issue with the K-Jet (only had to do injector seals and occasional cleaning of the IAV and throttle body). Personally if you want dirt simple, just install a small block V8... kits are available online.
Run low octane fuel in my RD, and she'll melt down. Heads have been shaved, pistons changed, and timing advanced to the ragged edge (among other things) - she's no 3 HP Stihl, lol. Try about 50 HP or better ... at the rear wheel.
I run this thing from 40°F to 100°F - sure, she'll run harder in the cooler weather, but never once did I wish it was injected. Could care less, really. I can fix it with a screwdriver. Try that during a communication, module, or fuel pump failure on a modern vehicle.
There is not 740 that were carb. engines. Best bet would be to look at maybe the early Volvo marine engines otherwise you might have to look at trying to rig up a COP setup. Maybe look back to the earliest carb distributor and modify it to fit.
That's why I mentioned the 240 - wasn't sure. Not a Volvo guru - just a wrench turner.
If it was a Chevy, I could tell him exactly what he needs to make that happen. I converted a '00 GMC Jimmy 4.3 V6 to a carburetor, after the vehicle was scrapped due to being the biggest lemon on the planet. Threw the engine in a '89 S10 Blazer, and it ran reliably for years - all the problems that engine had suddenly went away, along with all the computers and wiring.
Thanks, MT! I'll never sell this one, unless I can't physically get a leg over it anymore. Got quite the pile of money in it, but I'd ride it to CA tomorrow with nothing more than a quick look over to make sure the tires aren't flat, and chain isn't dry. If I had to pay someone to do all I've done, it easily would've been well into the 5-figure range.
I didn't see that one, but saw the white one back in June that had the Cafe racer fairing - they got $8,100 or so for that one. Guy had a couple YouTube vids on a cold start, and a ride - thing sounded great, and looked to have some serious power.
I ended up buying the Pierce Manifold/ Weber DGEV 32/36 conversion kit and a 123ignition distributor, both specific to B230. While waiting for the kits to arrive, I decided to try to start the engine with the current setup. It has a Weber DGV 32/36 bolted to a fabricated steel adapter which was bolted to the LH 2.4 intake plenum. The distributor is a Toyota self contained electronic ignition unit, probably from a Trueno or Starlet adapted to fit the B230F using the shaft and drive gear from the Volvo’s original Bosch distributor.
I first tried to start by installing a battery, pouring some gasoline inside the fuel bowl and cranking. Engine fired after the third crank and ran well high speed but wouldn’t idle. I eventually set up a universal electric Low pressure (5 psi) fuel pump with return into a Jerry van and this gave me longer run time but still wasn’t able to get idle.
at least I now know the engine runs and the ignition works. The part number of the harness Toyota electronic distributor adapted to B230 Weber carb adapted to B230F LH 2.4 intake plenum. The parts of LH 2.4 pulled out from vehicle LH 2.4 parts
I've been keeping a conversion like this in the back of my mind for whenever the EFI becomes more of a headache than a help. For now, she's pretty reliable, but after 3 decades in New England, things can change. I prefer components I can adjust or fix with basic hand tools anyway. I love how there's 2 options for distributor installation on B230s - that is great!
Update on Weber 32/36 DGEV Pierce Manifold Conversion
Originally Posted by Smithsonite
Nice, Iyoy!
I've been keeping a conversion like this in the back of my mind for whenever the EFI becomes more of a headache than a help. For now, she's pretty reliable, but after 3 decades in New England, things can change. I prefer components I can adjust or fix with basic hand tools anyway. I love how there's 2 options for distributor installation on B230s - that is great!
Its been 2-1/2 years since the conversion and she runs perfectly. I am using a 123ignition stand alone electronic distributor. I deleted the main high pressure inline fuel pump and filter under the chassis but retained the in tank fuel sender pump. I installed a generic in line filter before the carb and a fuel overflow return line back to the fuel tank. Runs and drives really well so much so that I plan to keep it this way even if I already acquired all the components to restore the original LH 2.4. This is a 1989 240 Euro spec with B230F and M47 View of engine bay 1989 Volvo 240 GL Euro version, B230F, M47 Pierce manifold, Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor conversion kit purchased from Amazon 123ignition electronic distributor Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor on Pierce manifold
Nice! Thanks for sharing the pics. I still haven't done that with mine, but the FI is still working pretty good. I have no engine mods, either. If that ever changes in the future, a carburetor will be the solution to any fueling issues. The engine is pretty anemic, so that might still happen.
Hell all I have a 92 940 gl and was wondering if anyone knew anything about converting from fuel injection to carburetor. Im much better with a carb.
I also am looking for kits, for my 94 940... Weber two barrel or Weber side drafts, or what ever is out there.. Will the manifolds from the carb models, fit a 1994 940 red block engine? Thanks!
Last edited by BOBOLONGO; Jul 31, 2022 at 09:42 AM.
I also am looking for kits, for my 94 940... Weber two barrel or Weber side drafts, or what ever is out there.. Will the manifolds from the carb models, fit a 1994 940 red block engine? Thanks!
The carb kit with manifold is available from amazon. Yes any manifold for the redblock will fit nicely. You could even use one from a Penta.
I did a Weber 32/36 conversion on my car including that retangular air filter - but that was on a 1973 BMW 2002. I did the carb swap in 1980 or so, complete with manual choke. Glad to see retro is still cool.
I was wondering what ignition control unit to use for the 89 240 B230F LH 2.4 M47 and what harness and how to wire it all up if I convert to Weber 32/38 with Pierce manifold. Also, what happens to the ECU? Do I just disarm it and run the fuel pump power to the ignition switch? Is there an ICU and harness available specific to carb models? Thanks!
I found this 123 Ignition stand alone distributor on Amazon. It’s also available on Ebay. This is an ebay post of the same the ignition distributor I used Description of the unit 123 Ignition stand alone ignition distributor
I have old Ford with B240 red block had injection now has side draft SU carb but it runs very rich smoke from tail pipe? I turned carb down no fix? I'm using 1 of 2 carb setup it's the old Volvo SU duel carbs only using 1. Maybe needs better carb?
I have old Ford with B240 red block had injection now has side draft SU carb but it runs very rich smoke from tail pipe? I turned carb down no fix? I'm using 1 of 2 carb setup it's the old Volvo SU duel carbs only using 1. Maybe needs better carb?
Sounds like the fuel level is too high. Probably needs either a carb clean or a float adjustment. If it sat any length of time with ethanol (E10) fuel in the tank, I'd guarantee it needs a good cleaning.
Sounds like the fuel level is too high. Probably needs either a carb clean or a float adjustment. If it sat any length of time with ethanol (E10) fuel in the tank, I'd guarantee it needs a good cleaning.
I filled bowl could blow threw must be leaking thanks.
The original car I had mentioned in the previous posts (a ‘93 Regina system) is still running great, but I ended up with a 1994 940 as a winter beater that has been giving me trouble on a cold start. Tired of screwing around troubleshooting.
Has a new temperature sensor (for the engine computer, NOT the gauge), clean throttlebody, clean AMM, clean idle air control, zero vacuum leaks, plus a fresh cap, rotor, plugs, and wires, all top shelf stuff – Bosch and NGK.
Thing is impossible to get running unless you hold the pedal to the carpet when below 60°. This tells me it is an overly rich condition… BUT… the problem gets much worse in colder weather, which is the opposite of a rich condition. Huge PITA.
Once you manage to get it running it runs on 1 to 2 cylinders for about 30 seconds - quicker if you hold it at high RPM. The higher the quicker it clears out. I usually hold it at about 3500 RPM & it clears out in 30 seconds.Eventually, it smooths out like glass, & idles very low. But once past this point, the car is drivable.
Once warmed up it idles at 1400 to 1600 RPM. When driving, it pulls nice and runs smooth from idle all the way to redline so I don’t suspect any valve or engine issues.I suspect the AMM is probably junk (whenever the temperature drops more than 30° since last driven and I can’t get it running, unplugging the AMM gets it started), but I’m done troubleshooting.
Got myself that same Weber carburetor and intake manifold kit off eBay will be installing that next season. Going to try to get through this winter with it the way it is for now.
I was sitting here, thinking about the project, and realized that nobody anywhere on the net that I could find has ever tried running the stock computer controlled ignition with the carburetor. In theory, it should still work if you can rig up the throttle position switch to the carburetor. These computers aren’t very high tech and will work with 90% of the inputs or outputs missing.
I’m going to give it a try this summer and post back my progress on that when I have time to play with it and experiment. 👍
Last edited by Smithsonite; Jan 4, 2025 at 04:52 PM.
Geesh ... another year has blown by and I STILL haven't got to this yet!
The problem got exponentially worse this season. So bad that it left me stuck at work when the temperature dropped, which forced me to do some deeper troubleshooting. While I haven't found the cause of the issue (all signs are pointing to either a computer glitch or chaffed wiring hidden somewhere), I've learned that the computer thinks the engine is melting down ... but ONLY below 40°F ambient! Very strange and infuriating at the same time. I discovered this when my co-worker blocked off my air intake while I was cranking and it fired right up! I also yanked a couple plugs expecting them to be soaked after all the cranking ... and they were PURE WHITE and bone dry. VERY lean!
So to get through the season, I've come up with 2 bandaids that have been working great since mid November. One is a can of brake clean I keep behind the seat. Remove the small vacuum line at the top of the throttle body and give it a 1 second blast. Fires up & runs rough, and the fan kicks on full blast (that's what lead me to believe the computer is getting erroneous temperature readings for whatever reason - already replaced the sensor - the correct sensor - with no change whatsoever). Takes a bit in really cold weather before it will take throttle, but once warm everything is good (aside from the 1,400 RPM idle speed).
The 2nd bandaid is a coolant heater spliced inline with the lower hose. Only problem with that was the manufacturer of the unit (Kat's) got the specs WRONG for the ID of the lower hose on the 940, so all parts places that carry it also have the wrong info! It's NOT 1-1/2" ID - it's 1-1/4". I ended up forcing the the thing in there out of desperation - naturally I had already cut the damned hose when I figured this out! That was a HUGE, frustrating PITA when it didn't need to be! I always tell people to check ALL parts before doing ANYTHING today, even parts straight from the manufacturer, because everything is frigged up today! Bit me in the ***!! It's working great, but I walked away stressed out and bleeding from my fingers.
It's been working great, although it pulls some juice and makes the meter spin. For that reason I installed an Intermatic timer in my shop so that it'll kick on 3 hours before I go to work. A 3 hour run time is MUCH cheaper than a 12 hour run time! FYI, MA is #3 in the Nation for the HIGHEST electric bills, thanks to the idiots in charge here ... but I digress.
The great thing about using the heater (besides guaranteeing a start regardless of how cold it is outside) is the engine warms up in less than a mile, rather than in 3 miles. You can turn the heat on immediately. Lukewarm air is better than cold when you're pulling out of your driveway.
So, this carb conversion project has been kicked down the road (AGAIN!) to next spring or summer. I'd better get cracking on my truck, first! That's been down over a year with a steering column issue. It never ends sometimes!
