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lol, excepting that the RD350 is a two stroke with zero emissions plumbing and they tend to run better on lower octane so old fuel is no bother... My Stihl chain saw starts right up too - except when hot, betting the RD was the same. Modern FI cars know how to deal with temp changes, altitude changes, engine temp and all other conditions while maintaining driveability. I put 250K miles on my 84 Audi 4000Q with out ever having an issue with the K-Jet (only had to do injector seals and occasional cleaning of the IAV and throttle body). Personally if you want dirt simple, just install a small block V8... kits are available online.
Run low octane fuel in my RD, and she'll melt down. Heads have been shaved, pistons changed, and timing advanced to the ragged edge (among other things) - she's no 3 HP Stihl, lol. Try about 50 HP or better ... at the rear wheel.
I run this thing from 40°F to 100°F - sure, she'll run harder in the cooler weather, but never once did I wish it was injected. Could care less, really. I can fix it with a screwdriver. Try that during a communication, module, or fuel pump failure on a modern vehicle.
There is not 740 that were carb. engines. Best bet would be to look at maybe the early Volvo marine engines otherwise you might have to look at trying to rig up a COP setup. Maybe look back to the earliest carb distributor and modify it to fit.
That's why I mentioned the 240 - wasn't sure. Not a Volvo guru - just a wrench turner.
If it was a Chevy, I could tell him exactly what he needs to make that happen. I converted a '00 GMC Jimmy 4.3 V6 to a carburetor, after the vehicle was scrapped due to being the biggest lemon on the planet. Threw the engine in a '89 S10 Blazer, and it ran reliably for years - all the problems that engine had suddenly went away, along with all the computers and wiring.
Thanks, MT! I'll never sell this one, unless I can't physically get a leg over it anymore. Got quite the pile of money in it, but I'd ride it to CA tomorrow with nothing more than a quick look over to make sure the tires aren't flat, and chain isn't dry. If I had to pay someone to do all I've done, it easily would've been well into the 5-figure range.
I didn't see that one, but saw the white one back in June that had the Cafe racer fairing - they got $8,100 or so for that one. Guy had a couple YouTube vids on a cold start, and a ride - thing sounded great, and looked to have some serious power.
I ended up buying the Pierce Manifold/ Weber DGEV 32/36 conversion kit and a 123ignition distributor, both specific to B230. While waiting for the kits to arrive, I decided to try to start the engine with the current setup. It has a Weber DGV 32/36 bolted to a fabricated steel adapter which was bolted to the LH 2.4 intake plenum. The distributor is a Toyota self contained electronic ignition unit, probably from a Trueno or Starlet adapted to fit the B230F using the shaft and drive gear from the Volvo’s original Bosch distributor.
I first tried to start by installing a battery, pouring some gasoline inside the fuel bowl and cranking. Engine fired after the third crank and ran well high speed but wouldn’t idle. I eventually set up a universal electric Low pressure (5 psi) fuel pump with return into a Jerry van and this gave me longer run time but still wasn’t able to get idle.
at least I now know the engine runs and the ignition works. The part number of the harness Toyota electronic distributor adapted to B230 Weber carb adapted to B230F LH 2.4 intake plenum. The parts of LH 2.4 pulled out from vehicle LH 2.4 parts
I've been keeping a conversion like this in the back of my mind for whenever the EFI becomes more of a headache than a help. For now, she's pretty reliable, but after 3 decades in New England, things can change. I prefer components I can adjust or fix with basic hand tools anyway. I love how there's 2 options for distributor installation on B230s - that is great!
Update on Weber 32/36 DGEV Pierce Manifold Conversion
Originally Posted by Smithsonite
Nice, Iyoy!
I've been keeping a conversion like this in the back of my mind for whenever the EFI becomes more of a headache than a help. For now, she's pretty reliable, but after 3 decades in New England, things can change. I prefer components I can adjust or fix with basic hand tools anyway. I love how there's 2 options for distributor installation on B230s - that is great!
Its been 2-1/2 years since the conversion and she runs perfectly. I am using a 123ignition stand alone electronic distributor. I deleted the main high pressure inline fuel pump and filter under the chassis but retained the in tank fuel sender pump. I installed a generic in line filter before the carb and a fuel overflow return line back to the fuel tank. Runs and drives really well so much so that I plan to keep it this way even if I already acquired all the components to restore the original LH 2.4. This is a 1989 240 Euro spec with B230F and M47 View of engine bay 1989 Volvo 240 GL Euro version, B230F, M47 Pierce manifold, Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor conversion kit purchased from Amazon 123ignition electronic distributor Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor on Pierce manifold
Nice! Thanks for sharing the pics. I still haven't done that with mine, but the FI is still working pretty good. I have no engine mods, either. If that ever changes in the future, a carburetor will be the solution to any fueling issues. The engine is pretty anemic, so that might still happen.
Hell all I have a 92 940 gl and was wondering if anyone knew anything about converting from fuel injection to carburetor. Im much better with a carb.
I also am looking for kits, for my 94 940... Weber two barrel or Weber side drafts, or what ever is out there.. Will the manifolds from the carb models, fit a 1994 940 red block engine? Thanks!
I also am looking for kits, for my 94 940... Weber two barrel or Weber side drafts, or what ever is out there.. Will the manifolds from the carb models, fit a 1994 940 red block engine? Thanks!
The carb kit with manifold is available from amazon. Yes any manifold for the redblock will fit nicely. You could even use one from a Penta.
I did a Weber 32/36 conversion on my car including that retangular air filter - but that was on a 1973 BMW 2002. I did the carb swap in 1980 or so, complete with manual choke. Glad to see retro is still cool.
I was wondering what ignition control unit to use for the 89 240 B230F LH 2.4 M47 and what harness and how to wire it all up if I convert to Weber 32/38 with Pierce manifold. Also, what happens to the ECU? Do I just disarm it and run the fuel pump power to the ignition switch? Is there an ICU and harness available specific to carb models? Thanks!
I found this 123 Ignition stand alone distributor on Amazon. It’s also available on Ebay. This is an ebay post of the same the ignition distributor I used Description of the unit 123 Ignition stand alone ignition distributor
I have old Ford with B240 red block had injection now has side draft SU carb but it runs very rich smoke from tail pipe? I turned carb down no fix? I'm using 1 of 2 carb setup it's the old Volvo SU duel carbs only using 1. Maybe needs better carb?
I have old Ford with B240 red block had injection now has side draft SU carb but it runs very rich smoke from tail pipe? I turned carb down no fix? I'm using 1 of 2 carb setup it's the old Volvo SU duel carbs only using 1. Maybe needs better carb?
Sounds like the fuel level is too high. Probably needs either a carb clean or a float adjustment. If it sat any length of time with ethanol (E10) fuel in the tank, I'd guarantee it needs a good cleaning.
Sounds like the fuel level is too high. Probably needs either a carb clean or a float adjustment. If it sat any length of time with ethanol (E10) fuel in the tank, I'd guarantee it needs a good cleaning.
I filled bowl could blow threw must be leaking thanks.
08-13-2019, 08:35 AM
