So I have a '94 regina wagon, one pump in tank only. It ran low on fuel, then stopped running starting, it did start and run again, drove it, after sitting, then stopped running again and will not start at all. I replaced the fuel filter thinking maybe it had gotten clogged from running the tank low.

I think I may replace the in tank pump. I had fuel at the schrader valve BEFORE the pump, but no gas at the rail was coming from that schrader valve. This was before I swapped the filter. It almost started, making me think fumes or something almost got the car going...not sure.

I did the put the key to start, but not start it, to prime the lines and new filter, ten times, then cranked it and it won't start...

I'm sorta convalescing at my girlfriend's house, so I don't have regular access to the car-long term health issues have reared their head again.

It didn't SEEM to be how a fuel pump would go on one of these, it either ran fine, or didn't-once it stopped running on the road, no rough running, just quit right at about 35mph. I think I'll try the fuel pump next. I haven't been able to really hear the pump, but after 25 years of punk rock, shooting sports, and tinnitus that may just be me. I heard the "click-click" I think once, when trying to get the pump to prime the lines with the 10X turning the key on to start position, and once after I went to check the rail valve, I heard a hissing noise from air, whether it was sucking or blowing I'm not sure....

I'll check the valves before the pump to see if fuel is getting there today, again I can't really run out to the car and check.

I did replace the relay behind the fuse panel in the cabin, and I've heard the radio suppression relays can cause this as well, but I don't have one of those.

I'm disabled and broke so I have to fix this myself and soon... any help would be appreciated, I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but I'm not good with electronics and I've only had bosch red blocks before this 940.

Thanks ahead of time.

 

indeed, on the 94 Reginas the 'radio suppression relay' is also the main relay for the injection system and ECU, and if its not working, then the fuel pump relay won't be turned on either.

on earlier cars, the main relay is integrated into the fuel pump relay, and the radio suppression relay just powers the injectors.

 

The RSRelay is the same as the radiator fan one, usually located down in front of the battery. Swap them and see what happens. If no joy, it's the pump. Cheapest new pump is $50 from Groton (Asian made), a better quality one is $100+, Volvo $140+.

 

RSR is not the same as the fan relay on 92+, those use a 2-speed fan, and a double fan relay for high/low fan speeds.

VADIS says the RSR is 1323592, while the fan relay is 9442933. on a regina car, the RSR is just forward of the right side strut tower (thats drivers right side.. your left as you stand in front of the car)

 

Hm, on my '93 Regina that swap worked...

 

my 92 turbo has a big fan relay, with two connectors, totally different beast.

92+ turbos at least have no mechanical fan, just the two speed electric. the wiring diagram for the 94 regina shows this same big relay.

 

I'll give it a shot. If FCP has one in stock, I'll head down there.

FYI, they're no longer in Groton, but Milford CT. Luckily only about 9 miles from my girlfriend's house.

Thanks all for the help. I'll check that and replace it if that's it, I'll be a happy man.

I hope....

EDIT- F.C.P has that part coming in tomorrow...hopefully I'll be in business

 

I'm off to see the Wizard, the wonderful wizard at FCP, let's all hope this is a plug and pray issue.... I'm not feeling up to a fuel pump replacement.

 

So I put in a new RSR from FCP. No start. It does seem like it WANTS to start, the engine will go "FLUBBAH-FLUBBAH-FLUBBAH' like it's about to do a rough start, but that's it. Just turns over and over.

I checked the valve between the tank and filter, and I did drain all the fuel out when I replaced the fuel filter, and there's gas there now.

I still can't really hear the pump crank up, would it be possible it's got enough umph to get gas to the schrader valve before the filter? but not run the car?

There's NO gas at the rail valve at all. The filter is installed with no leaks, I'm not sure what's next. I'm fairly deaf, well not totally just old punk rock deaf, so maybe I'm just not hearing the pump. I'll try it this weekend with a hose in the filler neck and have my gf, turn the motor over, see if I can hear it.

What would you suggest I tackle next? The pump? Could it be the rail itself? clogged? I don't know...

I can check for spark....but that no gas at the valve on the rail seems to indicate this is fuel issues... ugh. Love these cars when they run, hate them when they do this....

 

flubbah flubbah!!!???

video!?

 

It turns over fine, it will one time out of ten start to allmost start, as if it's about to fire up, then doesn't. Almost as if there's some small amount of fuel getting to the rail. Sorry, my onomatopoeias suck.

 

It is the pump, most likely. Shoot some starting fluid into the intake, see if it starts for a moment, then you'll know for sure.

 

I think so....I'll give it a shot today.

 

Ok, so I got the old pump out, replaced and I have some questions, how the hell does that damn assembly go back in straight? I can't seem to get it to line up with the marking lines/arrow on the tank and get it and the flange in right. I have huge hands and it doesn't help. Also I had to connect new wires to the old leads, one used the only crush fitting which was sealed in plastic, the other used a clamp lead for the old pump wire, but it's not covered.


Is it crucial to have these heat shrink wrapped? The hot lead used the compression fitting to join the new wires, so it won't contact the neg lead wire. I'm just wondering if I should do this as right as possible, maybe even solder the wires together. The new pump has a quick disconnect with clamps for the +/- terminals...

Maybe some grease and patience?

 

I remember practicing my use of bad language fairly extensively while reinstalling a bosch in-tank pump assembly.... IIRC, you kind of have to snake it in at a 90 degree angle (pump pointing to the left), then to rotate it to the right alignment, you have to dodge the baffles in the tank, and do all this without knocking the sock off the end of the pump.

I had real trouble getting the flange locking ring back on too, it was like it had stretched or gone conical or something, the plastic threads wouldn't hold... ended up buying a new one.

 

The ring shrinks if left off... I put Vaseline on it and put it back on while I am waiting to put the pump back in if it takes more than an hour or so.

To put the pump in, I use the "string method": tie a looped string, fed through the fill hole. Put the pump in, pull the string, turn the pump into location, cut string, pull string out, done!

 

OK. This car is driving me nuts. I got the pump in, wired it, soldered it positive to positive, neg to neg, and NO FUEL. The pump isn't getting any juice. I checked the quick detach line, which when I took it OFF of the old pump assembly, shot fuel out under pressure. Now, nothing. I take it off, no fuel at all.

I checked the electrical wires that snake from the pump during disassembly process, and I did see ONE of the terminals had what appeared to corrosion, white I scraped it off with a screw driver and reconnected it.

To date I've replaced the RSR, the fuel pump relay, and now the pump. It may be off by 10 degrees in position but all the lines lined up and I reattached them with new hose clamps, etc.

Any ideas? ECU maybe? The car turns over but again it's like the pump get's no electrical and there's no audible sounds from the pump.

I may rent a diagnostic computer and plug it in and see what codes pop up, there's no check engine light on...this is getting really frustrating. I don't want to rush and go buy another car, especially and old redblock that'll just do the same thing some way someday, but I after wrestling with that damn pump....ugh.

Any ideas?

 

pull the fuel pump relay, jumper relay socket pins 1-3 together (use two spades the same size as the relay pins crimped to a short jumper wire), does the fuel pump turn on ? (those pins are specific to the 94-95 non-turbo different-relay-configuration). relay pin 1 should be always-hot, its on fuse 1 right off the battery. pin 3 goes to fuse 11, and fuse 11 goes to the fuel pump.

 

Fuse?

 

btw, I'm not aware of any such 'diagnostic computer' you can rent which understands the OBD-I system on a 940. all ECU/ICU/etc engine codes can be read out with the blinky-light on the diag block under the hood.