I recently replaced the in-tank fuel pump and filter in my '88 240 Wagon and was all fine and dandy for about a week. Driving down the road, she just quit and would start back up for a few seconds, run rough and then die.

I got towed home (Allstate...Free!) and am trying to figure it out.

I was told to check the fuel pump relay, put my hand on it and feel if it clicks. It did click, but still not running.

Today, I tried it again, and now it isn't clicking. Before that, I could hear the in-tank pump running for a few seconds after engine died. Now it won't start and the fuel pump relay is not "clicking".

My question is this...the fuel pump relay runs both pumps, right? Would one pump work and not the other with a faulty relay? Would that be possible? Or if it was faulty, it wouldn't work at all...cause I was thinking that if the outside pump wasn't working, and the in-tank on was working, that might cause just enough pressure to start, but not enough to keep it running.

Newbie Volvo "mechanic" here...

Tomorrow I'm going to do a fuel pressure check and a buddy of mine has a spare relay I'm going to try. Alas, no spare external fuel pump.

 

Well, since only a masochist would swap an intank pump for the Hell of it, what symptoms prompted you to swap the intank? BTB, the intank pump is a lift pump. Low pressure, decent volume. All it has to do is get it to the inline pump that cranks it up to proper psi. The car will run w/ a failed intank pump but not vice versa. The fp relay controls both pumps. Assuming you installed a new sock with the pump I'd kind of wonder if the small connecting lines to the sender were attached properly. There's a couple of simple tests. You can have your hand on the inline pump and have someone turn the key to "key on engine off, pump should cycle. Too, you can disconnect the big feed line coming from tank to inlet of inline pump. Do the deal w/ the key again...briefly. Should have a rather big puddle of gas. Best to have a tray and no open flames.

 

Symptoms were loss of power and shutting down after a short period of time driving. After talking with two buddies who work on Volvos, both suggested a failing in-tank pump. After taking it out, temporary power was supplied to it and the pump stuttered. The sock was in dire need of replacing too. Also needed to replace the fuel sending unit, it was so rusty that the little connections on bottom of "lid" were corroded to the point of almost not being connected and resulted in loss of continuity. Wiggle of the wires restored continuity, but wires looked like they were about to break. I kept the old pump, cleaned it out and got it working, but I had already ordered a new one, so keeping old one for spare.

I had my daughter turn the key to "on" while I held onto the inline pump. I felt it cycle. But that was before the relay stopped "clicking". I'll have her help me with that test again tomorrow morning, now that the car won't start at all.

If the connections were reversed, wouldn't the in-tank pump not operate and the fuel gauge not read? Both were doing fine for the week it was running great again.

Thanks for the tips. Getting help over tomorrow afternoon and see what we can figure out.

Also, is there a better repair manual than the Chilton manual?

 

Bentley's is best. I find even Haynes trumps Chiltons these days. Keep in mind that the pumps are electric motors...they will run in either direction...but having them backwards won't let the car run. Routine intank failure symptoms are car runs fine with full tank of gas but stumbles somewhere around 1/4 tank. The relay fails quite often,,,did you change out the main filter?

 

Main fuel pump was shot. New Bosch from FCP Groton, $154 and all is well.