This past Saturday I replaced the starter on my wife's 93 940 turbo. After getting the new one in, I took some time to clean up the various grounds on the engine/body. I then proceded to clean all the electrical connections on various sensors and probably very dumb of me the injectors. After getting everything cleaned and ready to go again i tried to start it.. But all it does is turn and turn and turn.

What I've Checked:
Spark (rested against the cylinder head)
Timing belt is intact (unsure of timing)
Double checked all grounds (as far as i know they are all on)
Confirmed fuel pumps working (I can hear them)
Fuel is getting into the cylinders (spark plugs are wet)

Before i changed the started, when the start would work, the car ran fine. Just had a little cold hard start issue.

I cannot for the life of me find the Radio Interference Relay. Or any other relay that I should check from reading other posts.

Any input is much appreciated, kind of need the car for work ect.

Thank you
G33K

 

most of the relays on a 940 are behind the ashtray in the center console... /except/ the radio suppression relay. on my 92 turbo, its tucked in between the ABS unit, left fender, and under the diagnostic readout block. I think the 93 is the same.

all that relay does is switch on the power to the injectors, so if the injectors are getting power when the ignition is on, then that relay is working.the power goes battery+ -> radio suppression relay -> ballast resistors -> injectors hot side ... injector low side -> ECU (so the ECU 'grounds' the low side to turn the injectors on, and floats to turn them off). the radio suppression relay's coil is connected to the main EFI relay so if the EFI relay is on, then the suppression relay is on, and the injectors get power.

they did this because the injectors make a certain amount of electrical noise, and when the 740 centralized the relays in the console, this created AM radio static, so they added the power relay for the injectors under the hood so that high current pulsed signal isn't anywheres near the stereo system.

 

I forgot to mention that I do not have any trouble codes on jumper 2 or 6.
Peirce,

Is there a possibility that the injectors are stuck open? Or the cold start injector dumping tons of fuel in? a

Another quick question, on the crank pull there is I assume a timing mark. when that mark is at 0 should the mark on the cam gear be at 12 o'clock in reference to the mark on the back of the timing belt cover?

 

yeah, its possible an injector is stuck. I don't believe a 1993 turbo has a cold start valve (but I'm not looking it up right now).

re: timing belt marks, see
Volvo B230 Timing Belt Alignment Marks

the intermediate shaft is actually not important on a 700/900 since the distributor is on the crankshaft (240's have the distributor driven off the intermedate shaft so its quite important there), but I still think it should be aligned correctly just on principles.

 

Did you clean injector connectors one at a time? possible to have reversed one (2).

 

I don't think the connector will go on the injector backwards, but I dunno. never tried

both wires are green, and its just an electromagnet, it might not even care what polarity goes through it.

 

HA, yeah the connectors for the injectors only go on one way. I don't think i switch them around. I did not do them one at a time though.
I don't know if I'm just blind or the PO did their own backyard engineering. BUT I do not see the 2 relays by the power-steering / ABS. The one I could find I jumped the connector and tried to start, still no go. Buying a haynes manual tomorrow to do more diagnostic troubleshooting.

 

ok, I looked on my 92 turbo. its clipped to the inside of the fender between the power steering and the battery.

but... if your injectors are getting 12V when the key is switched on, the 'radio suppression' relay is working. you can unplug an injector wire, switch key on, and use volt meter with the black lead on a chassis ground, and probe one or the other pin of the connector, you should see +12V (the other pin is floating so it doesn't matter, it will probably be close to 12V too)

 

I have done that and they do get 12V. I have to get a new multimeter today, My dad's hand me down one finally bit the dust last night. I was going to test the Crank sensory and the power stage. I'm starting to think I am getting intermittent spark. cap and rotor are new and in good condition as well.

 

Also, probably a dumb question but I need to ask it for some reason. Does the engine turn clockwise or counter-clockwise? My dad has so graciously offered to come down for the weekend and help me out with the car.

 

After doing my own diagnostic troubleshooting i had a hunch the timing was off. After having my dad over for awhile we determined that that was the problem. The timing marks were way off. In fact the cam was 90 degrees advanced! So a new timing belt later and tensioner along with a trip to the welding shop to get the crank gear welded after someone has ruined the key guide for the pulley, they car is back together and running tip top again! Thanks again for your input guys. Really helped out a lot!