HELP! 1990 740 won't idle
#1
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Hey y'all!
I have a 1990 volvo 740 gl. It has the redblock B230F with the Regina fuel system. It's throwing a 3-1-1 code. It'll crank and fire no problem, and run if I keep my foot on the gas. But it just will not sit and idle. I had it running a few weeks ago, and drove it to work and church a few times, and it ran fine, but then it just started not wanting to idle. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated! Thanks
things I've replaced so far on this car:
fuel injectors
Fuel filter
Battery
Amm
flushed out fuel tank
Oil
Spark plugs
I have a 1990 volvo 740 gl. It has the redblock B230F with the Regina fuel system. It's throwing a 3-1-1 code. It'll crank and fire no problem, and run if I keep my foot on the gas. But it just will not sit and idle. I had it running a few weeks ago, and drove it to work and church a few times, and it ran fine, but then it just started not wanting to idle. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated! Thanks
things I've replaced so far on this car:
fuel injectors
Fuel filter
Battery
Amm
flushed out fuel tank
Oil
Spark plugs
#3
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First check the connectors to the iac. They are directly under the throttle body area whick leaks residues of oil! and often can deteriorate, break or loose good connection.
If you clean it use a good carb cleaner but dont go crazy.
Before you check out these things disconnect negative battery.
If it is indeed your iac needing replacing. I have over 2 dozen all regina iscs available.
Goldenblock
If you clean it use a good carb cleaner but dont go crazy.
Before you check out these things disconnect negative battery.
If it is indeed your iac needing replacing. I have over 2 dozen all regina iscs available.
Goldenblock
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
First check the connectors to the iac. They are directly under the throttle body area whick leaks residues of oil! and often can deteriorate, break or loose good connection.
If you clean it use a good carb cleaner but dont go crazy.
Before you check out these things disconnect negative battery.
If it is indeed your iac needing replacing. I have over 2 dozen all regina iscs available.
Goldenblock
If you clean it use a good carb cleaner but dont go crazy.
Before you check out these things disconnect negative battery.
If it is indeed your iac needing replacing. I have over 2 dozen all regina iscs available.
Goldenblock
#5
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The base idle speed is controlled by ------- The throttle plate. The throttle plate when warm allows enough air into the engine for it to -------idle.
The iac/idle motor/control valve - allows more idle air when needed. Engine is cold, needs more air, ac is on, needs more air, load on power steering, needs more air.
And stop randomly replacing stuff without doing the basics first.
Your first step would be to remove and clean the throttle plate/housing. Then with a warm engine set the basic idle - in other words - set the idle with the throttle plate to 750 rpms, making sure the throttle switch is adjusted so it clicks when you barely open the plate. Yes at some point you will need to verify the idle motor is not stuck, and is actually working.
Then if you have further running problems - address those
Last edited by hoonk; 07-24-2021 at 07:47 PM.
#6
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OK - you don't have to have a working idle motor/control valve/iac - whatever you want to call it.
The base idle speed is controlled by ------- The throttle plate. The throttle plate when warm allows enough air into the engine for it to -------idle.
The iac/idle motor/control valve - allows more idle air when needed. Engine is cold, needs more air, ac is on, needs more air, load on power steering, needs more air.
And stop randomly replacing stuff without doing the basics first.
Your first step would be to remove and clean the throttle plate/housing. Then with a warm engine set the basic idle - in other words - set the idle with the throttle plate to 750 rpms, making sure the throttle switch is adjusted so it clicks when you barely open the plate. Yes at some point you will need to verify the idle motor is not stuck, and is actually working.
Then if you have further running problems - address those
The base idle speed is controlled by ------- The throttle plate. The throttle plate when warm allows enough air into the engine for it to -------idle.
The iac/idle motor/control valve - allows more idle air when needed. Engine is cold, needs more air, ac is on, needs more air, load on power steering, needs more air.
And stop randomly replacing stuff without doing the basics first.
Your first step would be to remove and clean the throttle plate/housing. Then with a warm engine set the basic idle - in other words - set the idle with the throttle plate to 750 rpms, making sure the throttle switch is adjusted so it clicks when you barely open the plate. Yes at some point you will need to verify the idle motor is not stuck, and is actually working.
Then if you have further running problems - address those
#7
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![Frown](https://volvoforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
500 rpms worked if everything else is 100% - but so many idle motors are sluggish, and with other contributing factors - some cars would tend to stall when decelerating sometimes if set to 500 rpms.
What years had the spade terminal you could ground to disable the idle motor?
#8
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My regina wagon is 35 years old and i never once had to clean the throttle body.
I also never touched the idle screw... You dont need to.
ecu will do that automatically. Recheck all vacum hoses if no go replace your Iac
the air temps on these cars dont go bads mafs do!!!
Ignore Hoonks advice and change that iac
Goldenblock!!!
I also never touched the idle screw... You dont need to.
ecu will do that automatically. Recheck all vacum hoses if no go replace your Iac
the air temps on these cars dont go bads mafs do!!!
Ignore Hoonks advice and change that iac
Goldenblock!!!
#9
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Or ignore goldenblocks advice and clean that dirty throttle housing first! That's free! That was part of every major service we did on those engines - because it needed to be done. The way the PCV system dumps some of the fumes back into the intake causes carbon to build up on the throttle plate, reducing the amount of idle air passed.
Last edited by hoonk; 07-25-2021 at 12:30 PM.
#10
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I would clamp one of the hoses off, rather than plug - I imagine those are stiff and would crack now ![Frown](https://volvoforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
500 rpms worked if everything else is 100% - but so many idle motors are sluggish, and with other contributing factors - some cars would tend to stall when decelerating sometimes if set to 500 rpms.
What years had the spade terminal you could ground to disable the idle motor?
![Frown](https://volvoforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
500 rpms worked if everything else is 100% - but so many idle motors are sluggish, and with other contributing factors - some cars would tend to stall when decelerating sometimes if set to 500 rpms.
What years had the spade terminal you could ground to disable the idle motor?
#12
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My regina wagon is 35 years old and i never once had to clean the throttle body.
I also never touched the idle screw... You dont need to.
ecu will do that automatically. Recheck all vacum hoses if no go replace your Iac
the air temps on these cars dont go bads mafs do!!!
Ignore Hoonks advice and change that iac
Goldenblock!!!
I also never touched the idle screw... You dont need to.
ecu will do that automatically. Recheck all vacum hoses if no go replace your Iac
the air temps on these cars dont go bads mafs do!!!
Ignore Hoonks advice and change that iac
Goldenblock!!!
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