OK so I'm working on a friends car, when he brought it to my attention he said the fuel pump needs replacing (him not knowing there was two) he had someone who did not know what they were doing pull it out so I noticed the fuel pump mount was broken. I put the mount back together and re soldered the wires to the pins in the mount and added the new pump, car did not start so I replaced the relay and still nothing so I put in a new main fuel pump (under driver seat) and crossed my fingers and still nothing there is no fuel presser. Any ideas??

 

Was the car running before you worked on it?
Why did you change the pump? May be it's not the pump or fuel related problem?
You have to diagnose, and describe, more of what's going on if you expect to get help.

 

No the car was not running when I got to it, its been sitting for about six months my friend had someone I do not know pull the pump out because a mechanic said that was the problem but I kind of don't think it was that pump initially, but when I got to it, it was already pulled out and dismantled so I put it back together mounted the new fuel pump and put it back in the tank, it still would not start so next I replaced the fuel pump relay and still no start so next I replaced the main fuel pump and it still is not starting I checked the pressure and there is none, so I tested the power to the main fuel pump with a voltage meter and nothing so now I'm thinking radio suppression relay but I'm not sure where to go with it next. I also noted the gas gauge not working.

 

is this a turbo or non-turbo ?

is it generating spark when you crank it over? if its not, it could well be the crank position sensor (CPS), as the injection control unit (ECU) won't turn on the fuel pumps without timing pulses from the CPS.

if its a non-turbo 1994/1995, there's an alternate relay configuration, which uses a regular relay for the fuel pumps instead of the normal 240/740/940 dual relay used on all the others.... these cars use the 'radio suppression' relay under the hood as the main relay for the ECU power.

diagnose, diagnose, diagnose. get the wiring diagrams, track things down with a volt meter, work backwards from anything that seems wrong til you find out WHY its wrong.

 

Yes it is a turbo, and I have checked some of the wiring because I kind of came into the situation behind someone else I been thinking it was mainly the fuel pumps but after replacing them I see I need to do better diagnostics. I also noticed the dash was not lighting up when I went to start it only the SRS light so I hooked it up to my battery and got all the light on it for about 30 seconds and then just the SRS again.

 

The dash lights malfunction is likely the circuit board on the instrument panel and it won't affect the no start you are chasing.

Is it cranking over then? Ya, the CPS is what I'd look at next...

 

Lots of confusion here...!


No dash lights.....sounds like dead battery.

Uh no fuel pressure...? Ifdash lights confuse you, how are you checking fuel pressure?

 

Sorry I been meaning to update, yes it was not giving full power to the dash with a charged battery, but I have been testing power and fuses and came across the ICM took it to O'Riley's and it was bad so I replaced it and its still not starting but its more of a normal out of gas sound, rather than the slow lagging noise it was making before I sprayed starting fluid and finally got it started but it would not stay on so I checked and no fuel in the fuel rail I checked for pressure from the in tank pump to the inline pump and there was nothing at all but there is pressure at fuel line under hood to main pump. Both pumps are good and power I's good I am going to check lines again from tank to main but I really don't know where to go with it.

 

Hi! Thanks for responding again. I hate the feeling of talking to nobody. I asdume you got an email from subscribed thread! Anyways....


Idk what you did to determine bad ICU, and I assume you mean power stage/ ignition amplifier, but if car ran that means spark works!

Dash light prob: i can't really understand issue. but I know I had a 740 with bad wiring at alternator that caused issues there. 940 clusters also go bad, but again, am confused.

Your no start takes priority of course. Could be related, but need more info or clarification.

Fuel pump relays fail on these cars a lot.

Dry fuel rail!? Thats a prob!

Keep trying and posting and I will try to help ya.

 

OK so I have read the posts again....

You say you have no power to fuel pump. Are you sure? Do you know how to use a multimeter? Have to ask....

If you don't have power at pump you found the problem! Trace circuit and fix.

 

Also it won't cause the issues described, but make sure your tank pump is wired cortectly. Its easy to wire it backwards and some pumps come with terminals reversed I have heard!

So what you need to do is learn how to manually jumper the pumps to run. You can do this at relay or fuse box. I ain't gonna type it all out right now! Ok fine, you have to juice up the yellow red wire at relay. That's my clue for now!

 

On a 940 its not easy to get at relay wires like a 240. So I suggest juicing up the pumps at the fuse. Simply add 12v to fuel pump fuse from your favorite source and see if it comes out at the fuel pump plugs. Make sense?

 

Ok so spent 30 seconds and looked at a diagram in my haynes and Chilton manual. I suggest you do the same or online.

On 940 the relay powers up a pink wire that goes to fuse 2. Check for voltage at fuse! For fun juice it up like I said before and see if pumps go.

 

http://www.autoelectric.ru/auto/volvo/940/1993/940-93-1.gif

 

OK thank you I'm actually about to get under the car now and yes my email is liked to my phone so I get the message right away, I was actually just doing research on my issue and read that along with the crank shaft sensor the ignition control module can be part of a no start. I am going to pull the lines from the tank to the main pump now and see if there is a blocked line I will let you know my outcome. Thank you by the way!��

 

You have some work to do.

Stop thinking ignition! If car started once you have spark. You can always double check though. Use your favorite method. For you, I suggest pulling the lead from coil to cap, set it close to stud for strut mount, crank, enjoy spark!

Again, no fuel is your issue tho. Google the diagram and trace circuit and fix! If that's really the issue here...

 

Tank to pump line won't be issue. Why bother if you don't have 12v at main pump!?

That being said, I am not confident you know how to confirm voltage.

 

Ok, on the desktop now. Much easier to communicate! I can actually type well and dont have the page jumping around and loading from all the ****ing ads!

Please don't take offense. I am not trying to be rude, but it's pretty clear you don't know what you are doing. When you tell me you don't have power to the fuel pump and then your solution consists of pulling fuel lines.....that makes zero sense to me.


Honestly, do you know how to confirm when there is 12v? If you do, I mentioned you need to check for it at the main pump and if its not there you need to check for it at tank pump/heated o2 sensor fuse.

 

 

Understood. I'm on it