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Glad to help. Thanks for saying thanks!


Ok so look at the diagram above. See number 135? See the pink wire coming off it? It goes to the fusebox. Looks like fuse 11. The tank pump and HEATED O2 are fused. The main pump bypasses this fuse. Very confusing huh? jk.

Check for 12v at fuse. Or you could test for it at the pre pump, at the main pump, or even the O2 sensor plug.

The only thing I would do regarding the fuel line from tank-to-pump is: pull it off the pump make the tank pump run using your favorite method (joke), and make sure fuel is being pushed out of it NOT air being pulled in to confirm it works and isnt wired backwards.

Confirm presence/absence of 12v at fuse, then fuel pump. If no 12v, remove fuel pump relay, jump terminal 30 (12v+. Red wire) to terminal 87/2 (pink wire terminal for fuel pumps) and see what happens. Your fuel pumps should "fire".

So which one is it? You contradict yourself.

I have power to both pumps i tested wires and pumps but still no fuel coming from tank I tested with 12v wire to fuel pump relay and pumps fired up fine, its just not pulling fuel from the tank

how much gas is in the tank? if its above 1/2 tank, the in-tank pump is 'optional' (car will run fine without it). if its low, then the in tank pump becomes more and more important. there's a small piece of fuel hose in there, from the lid to the tank pump, if that hose rots out, then the main pump sucks air when the gas is low.

http://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/images...lsize_6596.jpg

thats the complete tank assembly with tank pump, 'sock', and fuel level sender.

Wonderful.

Pump might be wired backwards like I mentioned.

I got it running!!! I appreciate all of the help from you guys, you all are so knowledgeable and extremely helpful I more than appreciate all your help. Volvos are not so simple and I work at AutoZone so I'm dealing with a lot of cars and different situations and I was completly stumped but with your help I was able to get it running smooth again, I ended up filling a gas can and running fuel line directly from the main pump to the gas can and getting fuel to the fuel rail, I filled the gas tank more than half and it ran for a little while but if I pressed on the gas it would turn off so I changed out the fuel pressure regulator to in hopes for more stabilized presser but going back to the basics I decided to triple check the in tank pump and sure enough the fuel line (I got from autozone gets really soft) had slipped off of the sending unit so I reconnected and it started with no problems so total repairs were both pumps, ignition control module, fuel presser regulator and a few fuel lines that were cracked and it is still needing a bigger stronger battery and some brakes but its running fine.thank you all again

Glad you got it! Fuel line at sender was definitely a possibility when I heard you say no fuel from tank.

Still have probs with dash lights?

You might have fired a few too many shots with the parts cannon, but glad you got it. It has taken me over a decade of trial and error to have the knowledge I have now. I look back at where I was even in 2012 and see where I was confused. I know some professional mechanics that would school me when it comes to different cars and using oscilloscopes to check sensor outputs and advanced diagnostic tools. When you charge $80/hr and it's not your car, you cant just fire the parts cannon at it!

The car will usually run fine with a bad tank pump, but not if there is a torn/disconnected fuel line there.

I dont know how a guy sitting at oreilly possibly could have bench tested the ignition "powerstage" as bad. I would keep the old one around. I bet its fine. There are a couple of resistance tests, but I don't put much faith in those tests.

Same thing with pressure regulator. They go bad once in a while, but yours was "probably" good. I have never seen one go bad, but people have had their diaphragm tear and have fuel dump out the vacuum line and then you know its bad!

Cracked fuel lines need to be replaced. Which ones did you replace? I assume at fuel pressure regulator... american diameter fuel line works HERE. Close enough at least not to start a CAR-B-Q. However, the soft hose from tank-to-pump is some euro diameter I believe and hard to find in USA. The line from pump to fuel rail is Volvo specific hardline. I need to swap mine out to avoid car-b-q. At least the fuel pump mounting bracket is getting cleaned in the meantime by raw fuel! eeek.

Oh I just saw you used fuel line from autozone in the tank! I believe that is not fuel line mean to be SUBMERSED in fuel. It wont start a fire, but if its already getting soft after a few days that should be a giant red flag that it aint the right application! Euro diameters are slightly different than SAE fuel line. I have been standing in the back of auto parts stores more than once trying to find sections of fuel line or vacuuum line for my car and the USA stuff just doesnt work.

















Not "aimed" at anybody here:

http://cdn.meme.am/instances/500x/59320340.jpg

Lol "parts cannon" funny ������, I thought there was something to that fuel line thing because every place I go to has the same, and yes, honestly, I didn't feel confident about the O'Riley's test but Bosch has provided them with newer testing equipment than ours at AutoZone so I didn't have the proper connection to test myself but I kept the moduale just incase. The pressure regulator was just kind of a booster it was running without it, it just seemed to feel a little smoother and I'd already bought it so mid as well the car was sitting up for a long time.

I have heard that BMW dealers sell fuel line by the foot. It will be the proper diameter. I also strongly suggest using the correct stuff IN the tank too.

What ever happened with the dash light problem?

When the powerstage goes bad, your ignition is totally dead. Usually happens when HOT. The proper way to test it is in the car. It converts the 5v signal from the ignition computer into a 12v switching signal to the coil. If you ever have a car with dead ignition you look for 12v going back and forth to zero at the coil. If you don't have switching voltage you start working backwards from there.

Proper test for the fuel pressure regulator involves applying vacuum at watching pressure drop. With vacuum line disconnected fuel pressure will be at 2.5bar as stamped on regulator.

yeah, the BMW metric fuel line is good stuff. you can often find it at independent parts stores that deal with VW and other euro car parts as the Vanagon, and Golf/Jetta folks like to use it. my BMW motorcycle uses it, too. absolutely critical that you use fuel INJECTION hoses, as the fuel system is under high pressure (44PSI or so on LH cars, as much as 65-70PSI on K-jet), and its got to be metric, the american size stuff wont' fit right.

I also agree with above post to look around at VW shops for metric fuel line and vacuum lines. It is all almost exclusively EFI hose rated for 0-100psi. Carbureted fuel line is rated much lower, but I have yet to see any of that on the racks at parts stores.

I gave up a LONG time ago believing in auto parts store's bench tests telling me if a part is good or not. I can't tell you how many times I have had them tell me a battery tested bad, but after the free battery recharge they give me it works fine.

It is in the parts store's best interest to tell you it's bad so they make $$$.
I can't even remember the last time I even bothered asking questions to a parts store employee or had them test my stuff. I don't even buy new parts there anymore. Waste of money on crap aftermarket stuff. I just go to the junkyard and get my parts!

LH 2.4 uses 42-44 PSI which is about 3 BAR. Volvo 240 LH2.2 systems were 2.5 BAR which is about 36 PSI. these pressures are relative to manifold vacuum.

I think you could be right. I just know that at least on pre 90 stuff NON turbo was 2.5 bar. Turbo was 3 bar. That being said, I have seen 3 bar on non turbo later model cars so that would confirm your statement.

JuliaHorton,

Did a fully charged battery fix your dash lights?


Submersible fuel line: (240 length, but gives you the idea...)



Gates Premium Submersible Fuel Hose for Volvo In-tank Pre-pumps (3 Inch Length) 121652 27080

No, charged battery won't fix the dash lights!
Most likely the problem is the circuit board in the instrument panel--the soldering points need to be refloated with a low heat soldering iron, common problems with 940.

91/92 740/940 have a unique instrument panel thats not interchangable with other years. the speedometers are prone to capacitor failure, as well as needing resoldering. my 92, the speedo 'sticks' at 40MPH most of the time and won't read higher, yet the odometer counts off miles correctly (go figger). I re-capped it, and the original caps were definitely bad, swollen, leaky, crusty ooze on the circuit board. I cleaned off all the ooze, but I did *NOT* resolder the whole board as it 'looked' ok. I need to pull it and do the full resolder and try again but I've switched daily drivers so the 740 is being neglected.

Thanks Julia.