HG leak?
#1
HG leak?
Hey all,
Along with the long list of other things that could be wrong with the 88 244DL, I'm wondering if I have a headgasket leak as well.
It has a slight white smoke issue when I first start it AND after it warms up, and will drip fluid from the exhaust pipe. It's not a lot of smoke, and it disappears quickly after coming out of the pipe. I just changed the coolant fluid in the car/replaced the thermostat and have noticed that the fluid level was a little lower. Figured I just needed to add more fluid so I did so, but the fluid level after starting the car and letting it warm up rose above the max level. More than what was there when I topped it off. Also, after a few minutes of letting it idle I opening the reservoir, it was steaming, don't know if this was because it was cold outside and the fluid was warm, or the fluid has exhaust in it??
Any definitive tests?
Along with the long list of other things that could be wrong with the 88 244DL, I'm wondering if I have a headgasket leak as well.
It has a slight white smoke issue when I first start it AND after it warms up, and will drip fluid from the exhaust pipe. It's not a lot of smoke, and it disappears quickly after coming out of the pipe. I just changed the coolant fluid in the car/replaced the thermostat and have noticed that the fluid level was a little lower. Figured I just needed to add more fluid so I did so, but the fluid level after starting the car and letting it warm up rose above the max level. More than what was there when I topped it off. Also, after a few minutes of letting it idle I opening the reservoir, it was steaming, don't know if this was because it was cold outside and the fluid was warm, or the fluid has exhaust in it??
Any definitive tests?
#2
There's several tests and it depends whether the coolant is leaking into a combustion chamber or into an oil galley...or simply out the side onto the block.
1. White smoke out the tail pipe could be simply condensation. If so, it generally disappears a few minutes after startup.
2. The over flow bottle is there for a reason. As coolant is heated, it expands. As it cools, it contracts and retreats from the bottle back into the radiator. Volvo overflow bottles are pressurized and part of the cooling system; opening them when the engine is at operating temp not really recommended...could be a bit warmish! Fluid levels rising and falling, therefore, are normal and to be expected. Constantly falling levels with no stain under the car is not a good sign.
Tests:
If coolant/combustion chamber seal has been compromised, there will be gases from combustion in the coolant. Any real shop can quickly sample your coolant for CO...carbon monoxide should never be in the coolant in measurable quantities.
Often, if the coolant/cc seal is bad, the exhaust will pressurize the cooling system. With the reservoir cap off, allow the car to warm up sufficiently that the gauge is approaching 9 o'clock which lets you know the thermostat is opening. Rev the engine to 2-3k...coolant may "puke" out of the reservoir top. Sure sign of a bad HG.
If the coolant/oil galley seal is bad, the engine oil will have coolant in it. The oil pump will emulsify the coolant/oil mixture and you will have what appears as chocolate milk shake on the dip stick.
If the car continues to smoke white, either consistently or sporadically...smell your exhaust. If coolant is being burned, the exhaust will have that sickly, rubbery sweet smell of hot anti-freeze. Condensation merely smells like exhaust. Also, if combustion gases are over pressurizing the coolant system, other failures are close behind. The heater core will often begin relieving itself on the floorboard...usually the passenger side. Heater hoses, rad hose may fail...even the rad itself may leak or even rupture.
In your case, your coolant level was probably lower as a result of trapped air pockets working their way out and being replaced by coolant. Remember, the coolant level in the reservoir will normally rise and fall...check it first thing in the morning when the engine is cold for an accurate reading. As long as it's between the lines you're OK.
1. White smoke out the tail pipe could be simply condensation. If so, it generally disappears a few minutes after startup.
2. The over flow bottle is there for a reason. As coolant is heated, it expands. As it cools, it contracts and retreats from the bottle back into the radiator. Volvo overflow bottles are pressurized and part of the cooling system; opening them when the engine is at operating temp not really recommended...could be a bit warmish! Fluid levels rising and falling, therefore, are normal and to be expected. Constantly falling levels with no stain under the car is not a good sign.
Tests:
If coolant/combustion chamber seal has been compromised, there will be gases from combustion in the coolant. Any real shop can quickly sample your coolant for CO...carbon monoxide should never be in the coolant in measurable quantities.
Often, if the coolant/cc seal is bad, the exhaust will pressurize the cooling system. With the reservoir cap off, allow the car to warm up sufficiently that the gauge is approaching 9 o'clock which lets you know the thermostat is opening. Rev the engine to 2-3k...coolant may "puke" out of the reservoir top. Sure sign of a bad HG.
If the coolant/oil galley seal is bad, the engine oil will have coolant in it. The oil pump will emulsify the coolant/oil mixture and you will have what appears as chocolate milk shake on the dip stick.
If the car continues to smoke white, either consistently or sporadically...smell your exhaust. If coolant is being burned, the exhaust will have that sickly, rubbery sweet smell of hot anti-freeze. Condensation merely smells like exhaust. Also, if combustion gases are over pressurizing the coolant system, other failures are close behind. The heater core will often begin relieving itself on the floorboard...usually the passenger side. Heater hoses, rad hose may fail...even the rad itself may leak or even rupture.
In your case, your coolant level was probably lower as a result of trapped air pockets working their way out and being replaced by coolant. Remember, the coolant level in the reservoir will normally rise and fall...check it first thing in the morning when the engine is cold for an accurate reading. As long as it's between the lines you're OK.
Last edited by swiftjustice44; 03-26-2011 at 02:21 PM.
#3
Thanks swift,
I'll keep an eye on it. Especially for the dropping of the fluid, oil looked pretty when I changed it a few days ago, no watery or milky substance. I'm really hoping it's fine and that it's still just got some old/crappy gas in it from sitting all winter with no gas cap. we'll see I guess.
If it is the HG, just one more thing to learn how to fix I guess. HA.
I'll keep an eye on it. Especially for the dropping of the fluid, oil looked pretty when I changed it a few days ago, no watery or milky substance. I'm really hoping it's fine and that it's still just got some old/crappy gas in it from sitting all winter with no gas cap. we'll see I guess.
If it is the HG, just one more thing to learn how to fix I guess. HA.
#4
Gas cap off all winter? That could definitely contribute to your issues. Water in the tank, rust and of course, the gasoline evaporating and forming varnish to gum up things.
FWIW...replacing a head gasket on a B230 is much simpler than it sounds. Cleanliness is everything.
FWIW...replacing a head gasket on a B230 is much simpler than it sounds. Cleanliness is everything.
Last edited by swiftjustice44; 03-26-2011 at 02:57 PM.
#5
Gas cap off all winter? That could definitely contribute to your issues. Water in the tank, rust and of course, the gasoline evaporating and forming varnish to gum up things.
FWIW...replacing a head gasket on a B230 is much simpler than it sounds. Cleanliness is everything.
FWIW...replacing a head gasket on a B230 is much simpler than it sounds. Cleanliness is everything.
#7
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