Hi all, I have had a 940 highlander for a couple of years now and its time I spent some real time on her.
I'm a little stuck on a few things though so working those out before I start.

1, front and rear suspension bushes. Do i bother with poly or just keep to standard (new blidtsein shocks with hd rear springs and standard fronts waiting to go on.

2, I believe oil pressure is running a bit high. I've got an oil pressure gauge on the way but where to fit the flaming thing? Looked in haines manual and was less than helpful.

3, Whats the best thing to paint the engine bed etc with? Red lead? or red oxide with hammerite covering?

4, boot lid oxidisation, hows best to deal with it?

5, Fuel guage has a mind of its own. Whats the usual cause for this?

6, Anywhere i can get an off the shelf stainless manifold and downpipe for the b200f engine?

Sorry for all teh questions but before i start i'd like to know as much as possible about where and how to start. Scrapping it and buying another isnt an option. Was my grandfathers car since new so want to preserve her for as long as possible.

 

what's a Highlander? we never got that designation here in the US of A, but by your language usage, I'm guessing your British?

I'd stick with Volvo OEM rubber, the originals lasted 20 years. Use poly if you're building a track car, but it makes way too harsh and busy of a ride for a daily driver.

the stock oil pressure switch is near the oil filter, side of block under the exhaust manifold. I'd probably put your sensor in there, and put the switch on a T adapter or something.

engine bed? you mean the engine block? red engine paint.

Minor paint oxidation, use some rubbing compound, and wax. if the clear coat is failing, pretty much only thing you can do is sand it all off, and repaint, new clear coat.

fuel gauge, probably the sending unit in the gas tank, which is part of an assembly with the tank fuel pump.

 

Yes i am British.

What i was thinking with rubbers but wanted to be sure first.

Thanks i was told it was behind the alternator but i couldn't find anything that looked even remotely like what i was looking for.

No the block is still red and looks like new (how after all these years ill never know) Its the bit the engine sits on thats starting to get a little crispy and worrying.

Oh well time to sand the bootlid down and start a fresh i guess.

Wonderful think id have preferred the cluster unit as i have a spare one of those.

Also i have a leak on the gearbox. This is very recent as i did the clutch only a few weeks ago and was dry then. Any obvious seals that usually fail or is it strip it down and replace all of them? Not had alot of time to really look into where its coming from yet.

 

Also i am not sure what the difference is between the highlander and the other 940's I cannot see any difference in it from my old 740 gle. Everything engine side is the same, ecu system is the same electrics inside and interior is the same. Maybe volvo got bored. All i can see difference wise is some vinyl on the sides of the car.

 

googled it.... appears to have been a 1993-only base model 2.0L wagon(estate) with some extra trim, yeah. there's only about 60 left licensed in the UK

re: gearbox, I guess depends on where its leaking... my past experiences, many gearbox leaks are the output shaft seal, where the driveaxle comes out.

 

Im not convinced its leaking from their as the oil is covering a line all along the bottom of the box. The way the car sits that wouldn't be possible as its alot lower on rear than front due to suspension at present.

If oil pressures how i think it may just be i strip engine and gearbox down clean them both up and rebuild.

Engines got a genuine 67 000 miles on it so not worth replacing, defiantly worth fixing though.

 

seperate from oil pressure is crankcase pressure... if the 'flame trap' gets plugged up, or the oil seperator box gets flogged up, then the crankcase ventilation doesn't work, and crankcase pressure can blow out seals, most often the camshaft seal is the one that blows.

 

Your engine is defiant? It doesn't listen to what you tell it to do? jk.

1.i am not sure if poly lasts longer than the aftermarket crap. I have been reading more and more about premature poly failures. I would just get your hands on the best quality bushings you can. URO isn't always the best brand BTW.

2. Whut? Doubful. Why the heck would you think that?

3. I have only painted engines with engine paint from auto parts stores. I have heard oven paint has worked well for some.

4. I am no body expert, but there really isnt much you can do that I know of. Talk to a body shop pro.

5. haven't really heard of this issue before, but since you live in a harsh climate I suggest you check your wiring at the fuel tank. Probably bad.

6. lots of options over there in europe. klracing comes to mind. proturbo.fi lots of $$ tho. I would suggest turboing your car, but I know inspections are strict over there so do your research.

clean up engine real well with simple green and THEN look for leaks. The way pros do it is dye in the oil then look around shortly after with a black light.

 

URO is pure junk. There's tons of brand names on generic chinese junk in the same category. avoid avoid avoid.

Best bushings are the OE Volvo ones if you can get them. heck, the originals lasted 20+ years...

 

I had URO poly accessory bushings in poly go bad pretty fast. Ya avoid URO parts if you can. Especially anything load bearing. That was kinda my motto for crap aftermarket junk for these cars. If it's load bearing, get HIGH quality otherwise the part will fail soon. Engine mounts, bushings, etc.

 

Mainly because i have a slight spray of oil coming from oil filler cap but not constant and sometimes also from the sump plug also not constant. If i drop gear to overtake i can sometimes feel the engine doing something that feels very much like something giving. Its defiantly not water side of thing or fuel. So really only leaves the oil side and with the spray coming from oil filler now and then (most obvious one) i'm guessing over pressuring slightly at higher rev ranges.

 

check the crankcase ventilation, whihc is a plastic 'oil seperator' box, and some plumbing, and a 'flame trap'. this is all under and between the intake manifold

 

Near the back next to the dipstick? I ask as ive always had a leak their and never worked out why. Its not the dipstick itself either i've recleaned/resealed that numerous times.

 

the oil seperator box is on the side of the engine block directly under the intake manifold and behind the idle air controller.



there's a hose coming off it that has a sort of Y fitting that the flame trap is inside of. another hose off the top of the flametrap goes to the air intake

 

Where i thought it was. Ill fit the gauge in Monday when i get home and see how it does when i go to Wales on Thursday. Can all those parts be removed without dropping the oil? If theirs a problem i'll clean it in Wales and see how she does on return journey.

 

the oil seperator box is above the oil level, yeah. the box normally lasts decades, but if oil changes were too infrequent, it can sludge up, then the crankcase ventilation gets plugged. And, worse case it can crack, then it needs replacing. the cheap aftermarket ones like Uro are junk, they won't last a couple years.

 

I dont think its infrequent oil changes. I think its more the quality of the oil. I don't know what she had in her when i got it but i know i tried shell helix oil for 1000 miles and was horrified by it. Most of these problems started then. Hopefully a good clean out will solve it if not ill have to start thinking of other ways to clean oil system through or rip engine to bits and clean everything.

 

doleakdowntest

 

In a tub of water if its in flames.


You just have oil leaks, dude. Fix oil leaks and report back. If you want to test oil pressure for the heck of it you can remove oil pressure sender, or pull the plug at the front of block, or even back of head there should be one. Find proper fittings, but you are probably just wasting your time.


Engine mounts you mean? Replace if bad.





When you tell me you think a leaking oil drain plug is due to excessive oil pressure, it tells me you are inexperienced.

Your oil filter sprays?! Fix that first before you burn the car to the ground "spraying" oil on exhaust. Like I said before, sounds like you just have leaks.

If you have excessive CRANKCASE PRESSURE your dipstick will pop out.

Fix ALL oil leaks and then if you still have problems, consider doing a leakdown test.