OK, this is finally starting to ṕss me off. I've been pretty fưcking patient, and I'm about ready to go give the junkyard guy $800 for that Camaro V8 drivetrain, install it, and enter this in a demolition derby.

If you want the full background, go here https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...s-bosch-76137/

Sometimes it starts and idles fine for 15sec or so, then idles @ 2K RPM, sometimes it starts hard and wants to idle low, sometimes when you plug the IAC in you can feel it opening and closing, and sometimes when you plug it in you don't feel anything (no power to the IAC?!).

Tried this with the original IAC and a Bosch which I jumpered (and hooked up to feed/vacuum hoses), saw the same behavior with both. So good news is, if you need to use a Bosch IAC on a Regina system, you can kluge it in if you have to.

Have run both IACs off a power supply to test them and they both operate flawlessly.

One thing, the IAC only seems to fail to operate when it's fully warmed up - so far.

At this point, I'm wondering if I have a computer issue. One thing I haven't checked (just thought of it) was to pull the AMM and try and drive it. I would do it now except I'm sick of screwing with it and don't want to take the chance I snap and decide the satisfaction of immolating it would improve things.

At least I can still drive this finicky little cưnt of a car if I am careful to make sure it doesn't stall out when I take my foot off the gas. Hoping someone has some insight before I rip out all my hair and have to go broke buying Rogaine to get it back.

Anyway, hope that was an entertaining auto-repair frustration rant. I know a lot of you have been there.

Any insight on this is greatly appreciated. (bump, bump bump)

 

Chilton's manual says the IAC valve R should be 10-14 Ohm, that sound right?

However, the only IAC it shows is a three pin, and mine is a two pin! Haynes doesn't have sh́t... Rrr...

 

The 2 wire should be 8ohms. Save your language for your shop.

 

I think you may be a little too focused on the IAC valve. Not having done the diagnosis I can't be more specific but it seems like the IAC road is not working, I'd look at other things...

 

Take the IAC out of the loop and set the engine at base idle of 500rpm with the IAC hose disconnected and plugged. If you can't get it to idle then start looking for a vacuum leak .

 

Lev: Thanks, I agree. Going to test the ETC, throttle position switch, linkage, etc.

jagtoes: Thanks, idle's OK with hose plugged, all other hoses check out (no rot, on tight, no change when I wiggle them).

Fochs: Thanks for the Ohms number. And: shop? Yeah, a shop would be nice right about now. I'm working outside in NH in sub-freezing weather, often during snow, except when it's above freezing, then it's often raining. So it's starting to bother me. Also Why the #$%! Do We Swear? For Pain Relief - Scientific American Sorry it offended you.