89 740 non turbo 8 valve question. i tried to advace the ignition timing by advacing the distributer. but i could not feel any differance. i turned the distributer all the way(as far as the bolt slots would allow) but i could not see any differance either way. does the computer compansate for what i am doing?

 

The computer controls the timing what you are doing has no affect on the running of the car.

 

can i change the computer so that it will advance the timing. i really want the power to come on sooner. can i buy some piggy back system that will advance the timing?

 

About the best thing to get to be able to advance the timing would be to buy IPD's adjustable cam pulley.
http://ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?C...103&RootID=629

 

The computer advances the timing until it hears knocking (before you can hear it) and then backs it off 3 degrees, then it advances again and just backs off a degree or two for optimum timing. If you are looking for more power you will have to go another route.

 

thats just valve timing...it doesnt have anything to do with ignition timing.

 

Which will also change the ignition timing some because the pulley runs off the cam and so does the Dist.

 

what do you mean "it has no effect on the runing of the car.
"of course it does."... as far as i'm concerned that car has a distributor with a rotor button on it. the timming the computer compensates is as the same function as a vacuum advance would do. it compensates for engine load,temperature and spark knock..with the references from sensors like engine coolant temp sensor, absolute manifold pressure sensor, throthle position sensor and Knock sensor.
If it was a distributorless ignition system....then I would agree with you Tech

in order for him to get the most accurate response would be to use a timing gun......because ..I dont care how many times you have done it.. just by feel is'nt accurate enough..

 

Try it you will see what happens.
The computer will not allow the timing to be adjusted by the Dist.
Also you don't really have all that much movement in the Dist. either.

 

I allready have when my timming belt jumped a tooth...
there is enough to move the timming marks to the proper timing marks on the cover and balancer.
anyways.....why would volvo design a distributor with adjustment slots if it wasnt intended to be adjusted.

With much respect TECH..

 

From what I was told and saw first hand. I was thinking like you when I started working in these cars till I was proved wrong.
It doesn't matter where it is lined up. The slots are just there.

I didn't believe it either till I was shown on a running car.

They moved the Dist. nothing happened to the running of the engine. It moves such a slight bit the computer adjusts it for what it needs to be.

But If I remove the Dist. I still mark and reinstall in the same place.

 

shoots....i say a lot of things...

 

jfunez, dont feel bad. i thought that turning the dist would make a huge diff on the low end torque. it did on my 88 accord. when i moved the dist what was only a few degrees advance the car was spinning its tires when it could not before(it is an AT) i was ticked that it did not work on the 740. i will have to save up for an adjustable cam gear.

 

I thought I read on T-Bricks that these cars (which cars? ;-) mine's a 940SE) have no knocks detection system?

 

the ignition timing on a LH2.4 car comes from the crank position sensor, which is reading notches off the flywheel. the rotor/cap position just needs to be correct so the rotors is pointed at a spark plug wire on the cap when the computer fires the ignition power module which triggers the coil to generate the HV that makes the spark.

you want more power out of a B230F engine, you turbo charge it. or replace it with something else, like a small block ford V8.

my 92 turbo 740 definitely has a knock sensor. I dunno about the non-turbo cars, they are tuned fairly conservatively.... ahhh, my wiring diagram for a 1992 740/940 B230F (non-T) says they have a knock sensor

 

Even on an n/a engine, you can make a wee bit more power by advancing the timing and running premium. With LH2.4, you advance/retard timing not with the distributor but with the ICU. Rather than repeat it all and leave valuable info out, read here Advance/retard timing on EZ116K - Turbobricks Forums as well as part 2 found here PART 2: Advance/retard timing on EZ116K - Turbobricks Forums.

 

Hey my car has a TB on it, no N/A owner here . There's another post Ive made on this but just a re-cap, done stage 0 (mostly) and want to crank it up a little (not that much). Have a manual BCV on the way plus a bov and block off plates. Today I got started modding my airbox quit cuz my batt powered dremel crapped out, will finish it manana. Any other ideas? The chips sound good but they're 300 bucks right?

91 940SE Wagon (estate sounds gay haha)

 

LOL. I read the entire post last night, failing to see you had resurrected a 6 year ld post. I was referring to the op's post and car. You're still a bit away from needing chips. While you're waiting on an mbc, it's a great time to inspect/ replace all the vac hoses under the hood. They carry both negative AND positive pressure; they seem to fail at the most hidden of locations. Also, some only leak under boost and close shut otherwise, making a visual inspection worthless. I'm not a big believer in throwing parts at a problem, I do believe in replacing the vac hoses all at once. Along with that, a genuine boost gauge is nice. Not too far in the future, a wide band O2 sensor too keep from destroying your motor immediately.
From the factory, these cars made roughly 157 hp at 7'ish psi. Adding 5 psi of boost is roughly 40-45 extra ponies. Quickly puts you in the fox body 5.0 range. Mods are basically controlled by how fast can you afford to go? Larger intercooler, bigger turbo, larger injectors, high volume fuel pumps...it's all possible. It's always best to handle the suspension and steering first, of course. Good tires, healthy brakes, heavier, new shocks and struts, sway bars and end links, bushings...all the mundane stuff that doesn't make the car go one bit faster...just makes it likelier you make it home and have more fun doing it.

 

++ on the suspension ... scariest thing I ever drove was a friends 69 Malibu with a breathed on 350 (carter 4-bbl, cam, headers, high lift crank, etc etc etc). thing made GOBS of horsepower, but wallowed all over the road. the rear had been lifted so it had big fat back tires, good for making lots of smoke but not much more. The brakes were downright scary. At that time, I had a 89 Jetta GLI with the stock 125HP 16V 1800, 5 speed, and a NewDimensions mild suspension kit, that car had great brakes from the factory. I could EASILY beat that Malibu up or down any mountain road, the only place the Malibu was faster was 0-80 or so (above 80, the malibu 'fluttered' so much it was scary)