Hi folks!

I just bought a 1989 240 DL from a neighbor for $750. A little bit about the car according to the guy I bought it from:

- The radiator is apparently leaking and he said that coolant is leaking into the engine/transmission (I can't remember which one he said was happening). That sounds like an easy fix, just replace the radiator, flush and replace all the fluids/oils. Is there more to it?
- I noticed on the dash that there is an orange arrow that is stuck on. Does that mean that the overdrive won't work/the transmission needs some work?
- There appears to film of engine oil around the oil cap. I'm not too familiar with these models; is there a PCV I have to worry about/seals I should replace, etc.?

Other than that, it seems like I got a great deal on it. The brakes are fantastic, the engine is peppy like I remember it when I was little. It's burgundy with the light interior.

- Wheeler

 

-If the tranny cooler section of the radiator is broken internally, you can turn your tranny fluid into a coolant cocktail! No bueno! You will kill the tranny if that is the case.

-does the arrow go on and off when you click the button on the shifter?


-flip the gasket over on the cap for a free way to hopefully create a better seal. A fresh one is always a good idea. PCV goes from side of block on driver side to intake manifold. Source fresh pieces and install them. Can't hurt to dig out the breather box and clean it out too.

 

So I am currently in the process of replacing the radiator. There was definitely leakage in it since both the tranny fluid and the coolant are milky pink. I'm going to flush both of them, and hope that the transmission hasn't been killed.

When I click the button, nothing happens. Should I assume the worst?

 

First change the OD relay, chances are the OD is OK.

If you are lucky, the tranny clutches did not get destroyed by the coolant. Flush the tranny asap and see what happens--may be you'll get lucky.

 

start with fresh fluids and see if the tranny works and then worry about the overdrive circuit.

 

OK, I finished the flush last night. The transmission fluid that is coming out of the tranny cooler is now a darker red than it was before. Seems like a good sign.

On a related note, how can I tell if I have destroyed the clutches in the transmission? It seems to be shift alright, with the exception of not being able to go into overdrive.

 

is the OD light stuck on ?

the OD is an automatic 4th gear, the OD solenoid on the outside of the transmission has to be energized to enable it shifting into 4th as needed. when the light is ON, the solenoid is OFF and 4th/OD is disabled... When the light is OFF, the solenoid is ON, enabling 4th/OD. bass ackwards, fer sure.

the button on the shifter signals the OD relay to toggle its state.

common failure modes... 1) the button itself, or the wire to it fail, and doesn't toggle the relay. 2) the relay fails and stops toggling. 3) the solenoid clogs up or fails. 4) the 4th/OD hydraulic circuit inside the transmission clogs up or fails

first step is take a test drive.. come to a full stop, with the transmission in D and the OD light out, and gently accelerate, and count your gear shifts (1-2 will happen almost immediately with light throttle, and 2-3 won't be far behind, the 3-4 shift should happen around 35-45MPH with light throttle, and if you're cruising at 60MPH, your engine shoudl be turning a bit under 3000rpm (if you have a tach, I know a lot of 240's don't).

 

Yes, the light is stuck on. I press the button on the side of the shifter **** and the light does not go out. I bought a replacement relay with the intention of replacing that first, since it seems like that would be the easiest thing to start with. Any ideas as to where the relay is located?

 

I believe its just left of the glovebox, behind,under the right central console air vent. 240's are somewhat annoying in that the relays are scattered all over behind the dash.

before replacing the relay, I'd do some volt-meter tests... at the relay socket (relay unplugged)

1) verify that there's 12V at pin 1 (15) when the ignition is switched on

2) verify that when the ignition is switched on and you hold the button pressed you see 12V at pin 4 (86), and when you release the button you don't.

if those tests pass THEN I'd replace the relay, if they don't pass a new relay won't help, you need to either 1) figure out why its not getting power (its via a fuse), or 2) fix the push button or its wiring

 

you have answered your own question.


nope. google.

 

It's clipped to the inside of the passenger side of the center console.. If you take off the plastic inner kick panel and reach around the edge of the center console there you will find it. It could also be behind the glove box by the foot well vent. It moved from year to year.

 

Ok, quick update since I haven't posted about the car in a little bit.

I replaced the overdrive solenoid relay, and the light went off and the overdrive engages perfectly.

But recently, I ran into a little bit of trouble. For some reason, transmission fluid began leaking. I only noticed it because there was smoke coming from the engine. I popped the hood, thinking the worst. I looked in the engine bay, and the smoke was coming from underneath it.

So I got under the car, and low and behold, there was transmission fluid on the exhaust smoking up a storm. I had a little difficulty trying to figure out where the leak was coming from, but initially I thought it was the gasket. I bought a kit, dropped the pan, replaced the gasket, and popped the pan back in. I turned over the engine, but the leak came back.

I took another look (this time with a flashlight), and sure enough, just above the spot where I though the gasket was leaking, the return line for the transmission cooler was leaking maybe a half inch up from the right angle connector. I could tell it was coming from the line itself instead of the coupling, because when I had the car on, there was a stream of transmission fluid emanating directly form the line.

So now my question is, how do I fix this? I don't think this is a part that is easily available. I was thinking of taking some JB Weld and just covering the area where the leak is, but I don't know a: how the JB weld would react with the oil, and b: if the JB weld is strong enough to withstand the pressure of the return line. Maybe I could take some small copper piping and cut a small section and cut a strip (so that it only goes 3/4 around so I can slip it over the line) and then epoxy it on that way.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I can possibly get some pictures if that would help.

 

JB won't work. You should change the line, best bet a junkyard if there is a self serv type near you, otherwise a new one may be available...

 

if you end up fabricating a new line, don't use copper piping, use copper-nickel, which is sold for use as brake lines. vibration will embrittle copper, while copper-nickel will last forever.