First time poster, full-time user: I am trying to install keyless entry on my 1990 740. Manually locking/unlocking the driver's door will lock/unlock all the other doors. From what I've read there is a switch on the driver door that looks like the actuators on all the other doors but it is not actually an actuator. I need to get an actuator/switch combination for the driver door to get the keyless entry system to work. I don't know what part I should be looking for since the 1990 740 didn't come with a keyless entry option so there is no actautor/switch factory part for the driver door. What aftermarket (or other volvo model/year) part can I get to replace the switch only part that is in the driver door currently.

Also, once I know what part I need how do I remove the OEM switch and install the new actuator/switch combination part. It's inside the door panel and behind the welded section of the door, very hard to reach.

Any help is appreciated, I feel like I am not the first person to have this problem. I have seen other posts with similar problem but none that deal with the manual driver door lock.

 

you need the actuator out of an early version 960 or late version 760 as they tended to come with remotes. I'd swap the passenger side too, so you can use the key on the passenger side to unlock all doors (works this way on the cars that came that way). you'll probably need to do some wiring, too, and possibly install a different electric lock relay (and the 960 one won't easily work as it fits a /completely/ different relay panel)

I've toyed with doing this mod on my 1992 745T, but not worked the details.

 

So if I got the driver door actuator off of a 760 (year range?) Then I shouldn't need a new relay, right? How do I physically get the OEM switch out of my 740, and is the actuator/switch from the 760 a simple plug-and-play? Thanks for your help.

 

about the only door repair I've done is to replace a key lock, but the actuator is right in there.

first, you remove the inside door panel. slide the speaker grill forward, remove it. remove the lock **** by unscrewing. remove the red lens for the safety/courtesy light in the door jam. remove the plastic lock (1/4 turn and lift out) in the door handle pocket, then remove the frame from said pocket. the window control panel has to be lifted straight up about 1/2 inch to do this, push it back when you've got it out. now, along the bottom of the door panel, there are 3 or 4 rectangular holes. each of these has a clip in it, these clips need to be pulled straight down. the bottom of the clip is horizontal, and theres two fingers from that which go up, you want to use a small flat screwdriver to pull these clips out, its kinda hard to describe without seeing them.

now, you swing the bottom of the door panel away from the door, then lift it off the window sill. If you have speakers, disconnect the speaker wires (the speaker is rivetted to the door), and put the door panel aside (I spread out a blanket or something so it doesn't get messed up).

now, I'm going from rusty memory...

remove the white plastic moisture barriers, remembering what went where and how., they just slip into place.

inside the door panel, there's a anti-theft shield designed to make the door harder to coathanger, this is attached with two fairly large phillips screws on the door jam near the latch. and you can then slide it out. the lock actuator/solenoid things have like a pushrod that goes through a lever in the latching mechanism.

its quite possible the car is already wired for an alarm/remote system but I only have 91 and 92 740/940 diagrams, not 1990.


ok, here's the wiring diagram for the 1992 factory wiring. I note there's provisions for the lock relay and everything.



here's where those parts are located...



and here's the mechanical locking mechs in the front door on the parts diagram, again for a 1992.


afaik, the difference between 1990 and 1992 is zilch, but verify verify verify everything.

 

oops, there's another page to the wiring diagrams for the electric locks that shows how the key lock works. and reading that alarm thing again, it does NOT look like there's a drivers door motor :-/

so this gets more complicated.