low rpm bogging in 240 station wagon
#1
low rpm bogging in 240 station wagon
recently i have been having this low rpm bogging or hesitation that ihave been having, it only happens at low rpm when you go from a start or know it downshifts into lower gear at lower rpm then i have the bogging or hesitation.
the car starts up and idles fine with no bogging or anything, after you get past the bogging or hesitation at the mid to upper rpms at cruise or on the highway the car runs perfectly fine, no bogging no hesitation.
things i cleaned:
throttle body
MAF sensor
MAF connection
MAF harness
tps connection
things i replaced:
intank fuel pump
fuel filter
air filter
i am getting a whining from a fuel pump not sure exactly what one it is, however it doesnt really seem like it would be a fuel pump problem becuase it runs perfectly fine with the exception of going at low rpm, with the fuel pump i would think it would hesitate and bogg all over the place and not run good at all.
i thought it might be the tps but not 100% on that.
doesnt have a CEL on but not sure if any codes are being thrown as im not sure how to even check the codes or if there is a obd reader or where its located or anything so i donno.
anyone have any ideas or suggections
the car starts up and idles fine with no bogging or anything, after you get past the bogging or hesitation at the mid to upper rpms at cruise or on the highway the car runs perfectly fine, no bogging no hesitation.
things i cleaned:
throttle body
MAF sensor
MAF connection
MAF harness
tps connection
things i replaced:
intank fuel pump
fuel filter
air filter
i am getting a whining from a fuel pump not sure exactly what one it is, however it doesnt really seem like it would be a fuel pump problem becuase it runs perfectly fine with the exception of going at low rpm, with the fuel pump i would think it would hesitate and bogg all over the place and not run good at all.
i thought it might be the tps but not 100% on that.
doesnt have a CEL on but not sure if any codes are being thrown as im not sure how to even check the codes or if there is a obd reader or where its located or anything so i donno.
anyone have any ideas or suggections
#2
240 ow rpm bogging down
I have the same issue that I am trying to resolve. I recently changed the fuel pressure regulator, and after cleaning the MAP nothing changed, just a low rpm sputtering at stops, or stop n go traffic, its fine on the highway or good traffic. Today I bought a refurbished MAP and I don't know as of yet if its resolved because I haven't driven long enough to see if that solved the problem. Also check for cracked or dissconnected vacuum lines. After I shut my car off, I have a slight smell of gas ( before I replaced the MAP) like the car is slightly flooded. Hope this helps you.
#3
Clean out the flame trap pcv system. When it's clogging up it causes the very condition you describe. Mine did it before changing it all out with $3.50 worth of parts. Runs perfectly now.
It's so simple that it escapes notice most of the time. Very common maintenance problem on the 240. Great pcv system though.
Best of success,
Brandon
It's so simple that it escapes notice most of the time. Very common maintenance problem on the 240. Great pcv system though.
Best of success,
Brandon
#5
The flame trap is located between the 3rd and 4th intake runner on top of the engine and just a little under the intake runners.
Here is a photo of it and where it is located.
Also, what condition are the fuses?
Fuel smell could be bad fuel regulator leaking back through vacuum line, fuel filter connections not sealing properly, fuel in the oil. How is your oil?
What is the condition of the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, coil?
Last of all, are you running 91 octane fuel or better?
Here is a photo of it and where it is located.
Also, what condition are the fuses?
Fuel smell could be bad fuel regulator leaking back through vacuum line, fuel filter connections not sealing properly, fuel in the oil. How is your oil?
What is the condition of the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, coil?
Last of all, are you running 91 octane fuel or better?
#6
Here is a photo of it and where it is located. i cleaned flame trap it wasnt really dirty it was semi dirty but definitly not clogged.
Also, what condition are the fuses? the fuses are pretty much oem or oem style. they could use replacing.
Fuel smell could be bad fuel regulator leaking back through vacuum line, fuel filter connections not sealing properly, fuel in the oil. How is your oil? i will smell the oil for fuel
What is the condition of the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, coil? all of the following besides the plug wires could use repalcing they look good no cracks or anthing.
Last of all, are you running 91 octane fuel or better? no that was one thing i was uncertain of was the octane of fuel to run in the car and would it make a difference or not. we run like 87 in it. do these need 93?
Also, what condition are the fuses? the fuses are pretty much oem or oem style. they could use replacing.
Fuel smell could be bad fuel regulator leaking back through vacuum line, fuel filter connections not sealing properly, fuel in the oil. How is your oil? i will smell the oil for fuel
What is the condition of the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, coil? all of the following besides the plug wires could use repalcing they look good no cracks or anthing.
Last of all, are you running 91 octane fuel or better? no that was one thing i was uncertain of was the octane of fuel to run in the car and would it make a difference or not. we run like 87 in it. do these need 93?
#7
I HAVE THE SAME DAM SMELL GOING INSIDE THE CABIN...EXHAUST/SMOG/ AND IT STINGS MY EYES...I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator and it fixed the problem but came back coming home from work...I barely made it home...
when at a stop light...it bogs down and quickly jumps up to awaken, so to speak, this repeats the whole time I am at a dead still...
Highway driving or good traffic no problem...I fly like a hawk....
when at a stop light...it bogs down and quickly jumps up to awaken, so to speak, this repeats the whole time I am at a dead still...
Highway driving or good traffic no problem...I fly like a hawk....
#9
Hi again mooses9,
I should have asked also what year model is your car?
I would definately check for air leaks in hoses, especially the idle air control valve, intake tube from AMM/MAF meter to the throttle body,
vacuum lines as redbottle suggests.
Clean off the contacts under the distributor cap. A new set of secondary ignition circuit wires a.k.a. spark plug wires would be a wise investment. Very underrated upgrade. Bougicord or Bosch, OEM style 7mm or 8mm.
The tps only meters idle and wide open throttle. Hardly ever causes any problems.
The engine will run on 87-89 octane, however it is designed for 91 or better. It has a 9.8 to 1 compression ratio. You'll feel, hear, notice the difference in performance and fuel economy. Particularly the low end torque. I run Shell 93 year round and it loves it.
The diagnostic trouble codes can be read off the small black box next to the driver side strut mount. There are a few codes that will set without turning on the CEL. The next best thing if you can't read the codes right away is to disconnect the neg then the pos battery cables for several minutes. Then reconnect them.
At least with these cars they have OBD-I and any changes will be apparent sooner when you test drive.
Hope this helps,
Brandon
I should have asked also what year model is your car?
I would definately check for air leaks in hoses, especially the idle air control valve, intake tube from AMM/MAF meter to the throttle body,
vacuum lines as redbottle suggests.
Clean off the contacts under the distributor cap. A new set of secondary ignition circuit wires a.k.a. spark plug wires would be a wise investment. Very underrated upgrade. Bougicord or Bosch, OEM style 7mm or 8mm.
The tps only meters idle and wide open throttle. Hardly ever causes any problems.
The engine will run on 87-89 octane, however it is designed for 91 or better. It has a 9.8 to 1 compression ratio. You'll feel, hear, notice the difference in performance and fuel economy. Particularly the low end torque. I run Shell 93 year round and it loves it.
The diagnostic trouble codes can be read off the small black box next to the driver side strut mount. There are a few codes that will set without turning on the CEL. The next best thing if you can't read the codes right away is to disconnect the neg then the pos battery cables for several minutes. Then reconnect them.
At least with these cars they have OBD-I and any changes will be apparent sooner when you test drive.
Hope this helps,
Brandon
#10
I am working thru the same issue on my 940 (non turbo). Clean the IAC (idle air control). With the engine running, remove one injector wire and listen for a drop in rpms, then plug it back in, and try on the next injector. Mine had an injector that was not closing and leaking fuel constantly into the cylinder. I ended up replacing all the injectors and the problem stopped (flooding out at stop n go traffic). Also try this: with the engine running, put a long handled screwdriver on the side of the each injector and then put your ear against the handle of the screwdriver and listen for a tapping sound (the injector coil opening and closing) . If you don't hear it clicking then its probably the injector.
#12
I've a 82 240 wagon and I am getting awful gas mileage, I guess, then. I thought it was just the size of the tank, though. I can fill it up with $18.00 at $2.75 a gallon from the 1/4 mark (). I am also getting that exhaust smell in the cabin as well. I'll have to check out that valve. Thanks for the info! Good thread!
#13
well from the last time i posted 12th-20th the car has not acted up once. its really hard ot fix a problem that is so intermitten not that i am compaining becuase the car is running really good now for whatever reason i donno.
i switched to 92 octane and i definitly noticed a difference in the way the car idles,torque, and the overall way the car runs, definitly was a good call to switch the gas. it definitly feels more peppy and doesnt take as much thorttle imput to get going.
i also havent been getting a smell or anything like that anymore its really weird
i switched to 92 octane and i definitly noticed a difference in the way the car idles,torque, and the overall way the car runs, definitly was a good call to switch the gas. it definitly feels more peppy and doesnt take as much thorttle imput to get going.
i also havent been getting a smell or anything like that anymore its really weird
#15
Bogging down
I think I have solved my problem...
changed the fuel injectors..........used from a 850 Turbo...5.99 each junk yard
yeah a pretty good deal
any who...it runs fine know...halls *** but I don't know if that will help me or hurt me for smog check...
I'll be driving it about 80 miles tomorrow I'll report back to headquarters tomorrow
my ignition coil was fossil...I changed that one too...?
changed the fuel injectors..........used from a 850 Turbo...5.99 each junk yard
yeah a pretty good deal
any who...it runs fine know...halls *** but I don't know if that will help me or hurt me for smog check...
I'll be driving it about 80 miles tomorrow I'll report back to headquarters tomorrow
my ignition coil was fossil...I changed that one too...?
#16
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Petebee
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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07-16-2010 11:00 AM